[peppe]

 
Jeff @ Glass Jar Audio has a kit up for the Rev A of this amp.  I don't know how he does it.  Its like $20 cheaper than the project i have at mouser based off the latest bom.
 
Not sure i can buy and build this before a planned move next year, but thank you Jeff.  Probably should wait until after the move so the wife doesn't get upset

 

[BloodInside]

I test-wired my BJT build today and I get a very-close to zero DC-offset (< 1mv) and was able to set the bias. The experience was not entirely smooth due to two faulty components (one LM317 and one LT1085). After replacing them today the power supplies both worked properly and the rest of the amplifier worked without any trouble.
 
I still have to hook up the two E12 boards and attach some headphones, but I'm already very happy!
 
Some pics (sorry for the bad lighting):
 

 

 

[BoilermakerFan]

Did you buy the case or build it yourself?  If you built it, great job on the keyed miter corners! 
 
Which BJTs are you running?  The coveted Toshiba 968s? 

 

[BloodInside]

I bought the case from a small DIY-audio company. It made out of oak wood and the corners are indeed very nice.
 
I'm using the BJT specified by the BOM (the MJE243 and MJE253). 

 

[holland]

Quote:

I bought the case from a small DIY-audio company. It made out of oak wood and the corners are indeed very nice.

Link/name of said company?

 

[BloodInside]

Quote:

Quote:

I bought the case from a small DIY-audio company. It made out of oak wood and the corners are indeed very nice.

Link/name of said company?

Automatic Electric Europe. Unfortunately their website is in Dutch: http://www.ae-europe.nl/aanbieding_behuizingen.htm. They're also in the progress of building a new website/shop, which is also available in English: http://www.transformatorspecialist.nl/index.php?cPath=22_30_44. Not sure if they ship outside of the Netherlands (but perhaps you live there given your name...).

 

[stixx]

 
Quote:

Automatic Electric Europe. Unfortunately their website is in Dutch: http://www.ae-europe.nl/aanbieding_behuizingen.htm. They're also in the progress of building a new website/shop, which is also available in English: http://www.transformatorspecialist.nl/index.php?cPath=22_30_44. Not sure if they ship outside of the Netherlands

Sure they will ship outside of the Netherlands... at least to Germany

.
Good company, very recommended...

 

[jdkJake]

Nice build Bloodinside! As the other have mentioned, that case is really nice. A very contemporary look.

Do you get any hum with the one board being so close to the transformers?

Another question, how are you going to control the volume?

 

[jdkJake]

BTW, not sure what the European electrical standards are, but, you might want to consider wiring safety ground to the chassis and then the chassis to star ground via a ground loop breaker. It would be electrically safer and less chance of inducing ground loops.

Just a thought....

 

[BloodInside]

Quote:

Nice build Bloodinside! As the other have mentioned, that case is really nice. A very contemporary look.

Do you get any hum with the one board being so close to the transformers?

Another question, how are you going to control the volume?

I haven't gotten to connecting my headphones yet. I planning to do that tomorrow or during the weekend. I didn't really think about the hum it might give by placing the boards that closing to the transformers. I hope I don't get any hum, but I still have some room to move stuff around. Perhaps snap of the power supply sections and placing them next to the transformer.
 
The small on the left of the case is a metal axle support. The axel will be connected to the volume pot so I can control the volume.
 
Quote:

BTW, not sure what the European electrical standards are, but, you might want to consider wiring safety ground to the chassis and then the chassis to star ground via a ground loop breaker. It would be electrically safer and less chance of inducing ground loops.

Just a thought....

I will look into that. Thanks!

 

[Ferrari]

 

Quote:

BTW, not sure what the European electrical standards are, but, you might want to consider wiring safety ground to the chassis and then the chassis to star ground via a ground loop breaker. It would be electrically safer and less chance of inducing ground loops.

Just a thought....

I will look into that. Thanks!

 
[size=x-small]BloodInside, using the 2-pole AC plug (Class II Euro-plug), as common in our Dutch living room, there is no need to worry about the AC ground (similar to other hifi-equipments in your room… just skip it !!!). [/size]
 
[size=x-small]Appliances in your kitchen or bathroom areas are another story, they do require safety earth.[/size]
 

 

 

[BloodInside]

Quote:

 

Quote:

BTW, not sure what the European electrical standards are, but, you might want to consider wiring safety ground to the chassis and then the chassis to star ground via a ground loop breaker. It would be electrically safer and less chance of inducing ground loops.

Just a thought....

I will look into that. Thanks!

 
[size=x-small]BloodInside, using the 2-pole AC plug (Class II Euro-plug), as common in our Dutch living room, there is no need to worry about the AC ground (similar to other hifi-equipments in your room… just skip it !!!). [/size]
 
[size=x-small]Appliances in your kitchen or bathroom areas are another story, they do require safety earth.[/size]
 

 

 
Indeed, other hifi equipment is also using the 2-pole plug, never thought about that. That makes it a bit less complicated, thank you!
 
 
Today I made an attempt to test one of my E12 boards, but managed to screw it up by shorting pin 6 and 7 on the OPA551 while measuring. It seems to have damaged the D1 zener diode, because I now get around 52Volt DC on the VCC pin of the chips. The OPA551 seems to have survived, because the relay still triggers after 3 seconds, but the TL081 has probably died because of the 52Volt. Taking a break now, before I screw up something else and just gonna order some replacement parts...

 

[jdkJake]

Today I made an attempt to test one of my E12 boards, but managed to screw it up by shorting pin 6 and 7 on the OPA551 while measuring. It seems to have damaged the D1 zener diode, because I now get around 52Volt DC on the VCC pin of the chips. The OPA551 seems to have survived, because the relay still triggers after 3 seconds, but the TL081 has probably died because of the 52Volt. Taking a break now, before I screw up something else and just gonna order some replacement parts...

 


Don't feel bad, I did the same thing with one of my e12's. Ended up taking out Q1 and/or Q2. I did not isolate which one, I just replaced both.

If you are using the v1.2 e12, you can also take the measurement at the base of R10, directly above pin 8 of U2. It is not quite as tight right there.

 

[runeight]

So, BloodInside, are you listening yet?

 

[BK_856er]

Just built up the new version (v2.01) of the AMB e12 muting/delay circuit.  Case and Greenlee punch on the way - getting closer...
 
BK