Don't fear the surface-mount...Links for your Solder Toolbox
Mar 27, 2009 at 9:34 PM Post #2 of 13
Interesting video. I have done some simple surface mount work on the mini3 one pin at a time. I have seen the drag technique before but am still worried about using it. I am about to start a y1 DAC build and might give it a shot there.
 
Apr 2, 2009 at 3:55 AM Post #4 of 13
The "drag" technique isn't done with a straight tip, or sharp tip. It's done with a mini wave tip. The station the guy in the video has is a PACE MBT station and he's using this tip:

Welcome to Pace Worldwide

Trying to drag solder with a non wave tip usually causes headaches.

Pick up a training kit and book:
Pace Direct -Accessories
Pace Direct -Accessories
Pace Direct

I can solder like it's nobody's business, but it took many many years to be able to do it. I also burned my fingers a lot at first (even have a scar on my leg, true story).
 
Apr 2, 2009 at 6:52 AM Post #8 of 13
ive seen a drag technique done with a pin tip... alteast i think ive seen it done with one? is it not possible without a wave tip?
 
Apr 2, 2009 at 12:24 PM Post #9 of 13
A hoof or grooved tip is usually recommended. The groove holds solder. I can't see the difference between a hoof and a bevel. I know the bevel has a flat tip. Does the hoof have a concave surface to hold solder? It's hard to see exactly what that pace tip is.

Weller has a hoof and bevel.
 
Apr 3, 2009 at 1:26 AM Post #10 of 13
The Pace tip does have a concave feature. There are different sizes of them as well to hold more or less solder.

The "crater" in the tip not only puts solder down like the video, but it also picks up excess solder so you avoid bridges. They make soldering like the video incredibly easy.

Dragging a pin tip to do this isn't impossible, it is a bit harder though. You also do more damage to the nickle plating on the pin tip than the wave which is designed to be dragged.

As far as I know, Weller doesn't offer any tips for special purposes like the Pace systems. I did have a Weller made for SMT once. It lacked too many accessories I like to use so I gave it away.

Metcal has a few tips made for dragging.

Hakko looks like they might have a few. This is the closest I was able to find on their site, I can't quite tell if it's "cratered" for wave:
http://www.hakkousa.com/AHPDirect/images/A1050.jpg
 
Apr 3, 2009 at 2:36 AM Post #11 of 13
I recently tried the reflow skillet method using a old frypan on the stove:

SparkFun Electronics

You really need a stencil to apply the paste, but I just dabbed solder paste on all the spots I wanted to do which left a bit of bridging to deal with later. I'll post pics when I get a chance. It does position all the parts really well.

Note: If you going to try it in a fry pan - DO NOT DO IT IN ONE YOU ARE GOING TO COOK IN AFTERWARDS unless you like eating lead.
 
Apr 6, 2009 at 2:42 AM Post #13 of 13
...been away from civilization for a bit...

Pinkfloyd4ever – great links; thanks for bringing these into this.

On tip selection, I’m afraid I’m not much help. I ground a medium tip into a pseudo-hoof with a sharp ‘V’ on the other side (pointy bit out). I polished with a ScotchBrite pad and a fingernail buffer. After that, I plated the tip with a bit of Cool-Amp silver plating polish (though I suspect that didn’t help a bit and was most likely alloyed and melted away in the first few minutes). I haven’t yet plated with anything out of the platinum metals group yet and didn’t see a need to; my tip has been burning strong for the last year and a half with fair usage.

Oh, yeah, for my soldering station, I have the Rat-Shack 15W/30W special, ScotchBrite No-Scratch sponge with a bunch of holes punched out in a pretty pattern on one side, and a $12 helping hands set from eBay - works great. I spend about eight-ish to twenty-ish hours a month rebuilding circuit boards from medium-voltage electronic relays, motor starting relays, and variable frequency drives with this set-up. So, I don’t spend my full waking hours in rosin fumes and haven’t really needed a full professional station, but my set-up sees a fair bit of use.

For surface mount goodies, I squirt a wee bit of the Kester 1544 all over the pads, position the part and hold it with fine tip tweezers. I have a couple inches of Cardas solder jammed into my sponge and use this to grab a bead from after cleaning the tip. After that, I just wipe the bead across the item. Excess on the end or nearby pads can be cleaned up with copper wick. For through-hole stuff, the ‘V’ back side works just as it did before I mutilated the tip.
 

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