ZoNtO
1000+ Head-Fier
- Joined
- Sep 7, 2008
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You could also try modding your HD650s to bring out some clarity. I'd link you to a thread, but the mods here will remove it. Here's a link to LMGTFY (first hit).
You could keep the MKIII and just use the DAC line outs on the back. There is no EQ unless you use software and optical or coaxial connections to your DAC, or hardware solutions of course.
OK...
I just spent some time at the Audio gd site and have a few questions.
Since the 11 and 15 are DAC,Pre/Amps does this mean I should replace my Little Dot?
Is there any EQ adjustments with the preamp?
And finally...if I get a USB player like a $100.00 WDplayer or buy a cheap DVD player with a USB port...could the 11 or 15 not play HiRes audio files I got from HD-Tracks?
Yes, software EQ would require a PC. Don't worry about optical vs. coax. vs. USB... they're usually all close enough. The Schiit Modi would certainly work for your purposes, it just may not be that different. The NFB-11 is a better DAC/pre, the headphone amp section is just a bonus at this point.
I found a similar thread asking whether a cheap player + a Bitfrost would sound better than the Marantz 6004
The thread kinda ended with this post.
"Let's make a few things clear:
1) Economically is not feasible to get a CD player and a DAC; an asynchronous DAC is mostly useful for streaming over USB ports; if you have a decent CD player you would not need an external DAC, as CD is a medium simple to decode for its own internal CD player synchronous DAC,
2) if you want to run music out of a PC or online, you may need an external DAC such as Schiit Bifrost or so; its purpose is to clean the jitter out of the USB port signal, which is horrible and really hard to handle;
3) if money is no object, well, yes, you can get a Blu-ray player and also an external DAC and you maybe get some 2% better sound than a regular CD player (like Onkyo c70-30 mantioneed),
4) for headphone listening, my personal experience is: get a good headphone, such as Grado, and stick it in the audio out of a Laptop and you will get the best sound possible that you get out of a $30k separates system (no joke); why is that possible? because inside the PC the decoding is very easy, as everything goes directly from digital to analog without jettering ports (such as USB active);
Conclusion:
External DAC is critical and necessary for USB active signal sent from a PC to an amplifier; usually amplifiers do not have such a great internal DAC and the best is to insert an external one in between.
For simple CD listening, the best solution is a decent CD player with no external DAC, into a decent amplifier (integrated, separates, or receiver) and make sure you get speakers that cost around all the rest of the gear minimum.
For Headphones listening, a CD player with headphone out, or a simple laptop with audio out is perfect, no need to speng zillions for just 1% improvement in sound."
If this is untrue...why hasn't anyone challenged it?
Instead...it got endorsed.
Then I read this at the Steve Hoffman Forum...
"Onkyo C-7030 Giant Killer with Wolfson DAC"
I don't know what to think now
If this is untrue...why hasn't anyone challenged it?
Instead...it got endorsed.
That person is just wrong. Most CD player headphone outputs are just there so they can put on the box "includes headphones jack". It's probably underpowered, and with a high output impedance, and better DACs and amps usually help. Yes, differences are smaller in these source gears, but still present.