[bigshot]

Bigshot is wrong for trying to reach a conclusion about the audible difference while not actually knowing much of anything about the situation.

I have an important clarification to make. I haven't come to any conclusion at all about his situation. I've come to a conclusion about HIM. He doesn't listen to anything anyone says to him. He spawns new threads with nonsensical theories and offers no support to his claims. I don't have to cut his theories any slack, because he is just out to waste our time repeating the obvious over and over. Gregorio might be patient enough to do that, but I'm not. If it walks like duck, and it quacks like a duck... it's a duck. He's a troll. You guys can cater to him. I won't.

 

[dazzerfong]

What? I would like to know if you are actually serious about this question. Getting DC power right is pretty easy and you don't need fancy filtering as AC step-down. There is no "optimal power", the battery either works or it doesn't. The components only care about getting the power they need, they do not care about break-in, run-in, burn-in, or whatever you want to call it. As @bigshot said, do a blind test and see if you can find the difference in something that most definitively doesn't have any difference other than the number of cycles and voltage.

I see what you're trying to say, but that's not technically correct.

Batteries have a voltage curve. For Li-ion, it peaks at 4.2 V, quickly drops to 3.7 V and stays there before it avalances off to below 3.5 V once charge starts running out.

That being said, there's something called voltage regulators which take care of that. Anything above 3.3 V is regulated like a flow regulator so it doesn't matter if it's 3.5 V, 3.7 V or 4.2 V (within the limitations of said regulator, of course).

 

[KeithPhantom]

I see what you're trying to say, but that's not technically correct.

Batteries have a voltage curve. For Li-ion, it peaks at 4.2 V, quickly drops to 3.7 V and stays there before it avalances off to below 3.5 V once charge starts running out.

That being said, there's something called voltage regulators which take care of that. Anything above 3.3 V is regulated like a flow regulator so it doesn't matter if it's 3.5 V, 3.7 V or 4.2 V (within the limitations of said regulator, of course).

Sorry, I was so surprised about this question that I forgot these things called regulators.

 

[dazzerfong]

Sorry, I was so surprised about this question that I forgot these things called regulators.

All good mate. Don't want to risk people making half-truths with your statement.

Anyway, regulators are why power supplies 'mods' make so little sense, especially with batteries. AC I understand, much tricker to deal with.

Only with audiophiles will you see commercial applications requiring their own power pole.

https://thevinylfactory.com/news/japanese-audiophiles-personal-utility-pole/

 

[flailure]

Don't feed the trolls, move along

 

[old tech]

All good mate. Don't want to risk people making half-truths with your statement.

Anyway, regulators are why power supplies 'mods' make so little sense, especially with batteries. AC I understand, much tricker to deal with.

Only with audiophiles will you see commercial applications requiring their own power pole.

https://thevinylfactory.com/news/japanese-audiophiles-personal-utility-pole/

After spending all that money on a dedicated power pole, I'm surprised that the Japanese guy hasn't built a Faraday cage over his house.

 

[KeithPhantom]

After spending all that money on a dedicated power pole, I'm surprised that the Japanese guy hasn't built a Faraday cage over his house.

He needs a whole distribution center with his own dam to get clean power. Also, the cables must be audiophile grade, the same with the dam and its components.

 

[bigshot]

The water in the dam needs to be purified too.

 

[Lazysnakes]

I have my holy grail DAP a Samsung Galaxy player 4.2 (discontinued) and I found strange that with a brand new battery the sound is different, somewhat harsher, while with the other battery the sound is smoother. I have read, not sure if this applies here, that it needs to go thru 2 full cycles (charge and discharge) so the chemical inside dissolve allowing the battery to provide optimal power. Or something like that.

I assume it's factual that a battery will perform differently as it ages and that it will impact the sound at least slightly. But does it really need a break in period?

A subject I actually know about yeah.
Almost all devices come already cycled. Almost no lion or lipo or lipo iron batteries will need any break in. Finally, temperature when charged bottom to top matters, especially by design with lipo.
If a lipo is designed to run at room temperature charge it in room temperature this is for almost all lipo in phones. Lions are charged in low temperature and always do better when charged slower. Never charge your phone outside or in a car for maximum runtime, but you can always lower charging temp by charging with a fan or a cool room placed in a thermal conductor like a metal desk. This will keep it slightly closer to room temperature when charging. Using an ice cube or something freezing can cause water damage from H20 expanding inside the device from sharp temp difference, and even if charged in cold without this this only helps the bat life of lipo bats when they are depleates in the cold due to electrolyte storage, and by a small enough fraction in only matters for cars and such.

The peak watt have nothing to do with this, any watt output is the same. The runtime changes much more with usage. Running streaming instead of playing files makes a big difference, as does brighter backlight.
Using a strong battery pack is more so recommend, and will matter way more than charge cycling your device.

You should always top off new lipo and lion battery devices when recieved before a y draining.

It is not likely the power cycle of the new battery will affect the sound. Either the grounding has been affected, the phone changes somehow with the different battery (it is aware of the change and behaves differently) or something happened when the old battery was changed to make the sound change, maybe the phone had a minor rest to some firmware or hardware that changed it's response.

The electrons and electrolyte storage moving about a battery scientifically shouldn't effect your audio directly.

 

[Lazysnakes]

That was for the battery itself. Now the circuit design : What about the voltage regulation that varies from device to device and in some instance the device might shuts down some features which can also result in noise reduction in the sound.

No. I know a out batteries from flashlight and mobile system experience.
A possible but unlikely stretch is the idea that when you first changed batteries it damages the phone physically, or you removed the old one without first shutting your phone down (common mistake that really should do a thing with a flashlight drive phone but is within possibilities if your phone was plugged in or something else wrong, like a grounding error causing physical and digital damage)

But most likely some dsp or system reset occurred, or some other not-realy-a-coincidenc-cause-the-battery-did-cause-it problem happened.

In any case, switching back to the first battery and the problem should persist. If switching back somehow changes it again with blind testing with a third party, as I try to do, you got some sorta phone with a weird battery that directly links with some level of software on the phone or a serious grounding problem with the new battery that could lead to an exploding battery.
I only being this up as a warning that batteries have mistakes sometimes and in the 1% chance there really is a difference you want to be extremely careful with your battery. Also the grounding problem should cause serious static and huge difficulty with your new phone.

I certainly don't believe it. You would have to do a test with recording the difference and prove it to me somehow.

 

[jagwap]

Given your history on this forum, this is rather dubious.

I haven't seen his history, but he seems to have some understanding. The abbreviations are different to the ones I use though. Lipo is Li polymer I guess?

Anyway, far too many assumptions are being made here. Li-Ion & Li-poly are electro-chemical and as such have varying electrical characteristic, over charge, and over life-time. In an ideal world they would have no effect. However even if the electronics' PSU is regulated (loses efficiency slightly, shortening play time in some cases) there is still only an attenuation of the battery electrical characteristics, not an elimination. Regulators are an analogue circuit, and allow disturbance through, usually more as the frequency rises, because the feedback reduces. This is called PSRR and applies to regulators, DACs, heaphone amps, opamps, everything electronic. So if the battery as a different output impedance, it is possible to effect the performance. I will disagree with the OP's statement that higher impedance is better. Lower is usually better. So as the impedance increases with time, older should be worse. However, as to break-in: I find it entirely possible the impedance changes considerably more in the first few charges, possibly lowering within the first few charges. This is what happens with electrolytic capacitors in their first few 10s of hours charged. I will try to look into this next time I talk to one of our battery suppliers.

The PSU of an audio product is very important to the performance of the product. It is not cut and dried to whether the power LED comes on or not, and sound comes out.

The thing with real science is to have an open mind. Rejecting theories out hand just because they are not of your world view is what anti-vacc movement does. Let us be better here.

 

[Davesrose]

I haven't seen his history, but he seems to have some understanding. The abbreviations are different to the ones I use though. Lipo is Li polymer I guess?

....

The thing with real science is to have an open mind. Rejecting theories out hand just because they are not of your world view is what anti-vacc movement does. Let us be better here.

The thing with real science is that you see if there is a reasoned hypothesis and proof. You are making assumptions about an older thread: in which the OP was flooding this forum with other threads that had word salad, and lots of other claims about many A/V topics. One I found especially funny was the claim that HDMI connections are inferior to analog connections (even though several people tried to explain to the OP that component video does not support the highest resolutions present, and with a digital TV, there is more processing that has to be involved). In regards to the anti-vaccination crowd: Andrew Wakefield may have a valid statement in any one of his papers...but if you knew his context, you would know his license is revoked and he actually now has a bias with his current anti-vaccination claims.

 

[bigshot]

He was a troll

 

[jagwap]

He was a troll

You fit that title sometimes too.

 

[bigshot]

I am not here to make anyone mad. If they get mad, they are doing it to themselves. If they listened and tried to understand, instead of setting up straw men, they would see that clearer.