[dvw]

Yes I am absolutely sure. There is no jitter issue in this case because the DAC does not use the USB clock. Think of it this  way, the USB port speed is much faster than the digital audio speed.and the clock is not the same.
 
However, what I said is only relevant to the DIGITAL part of an USB DAC. External noise and ground loop etc can still be coupled into power and ground of the DAC if the connection is not robust. For example if you have a cold solder joint or bad USB connection, and you have a lot electrical noise. But I would consider that a defective connection rather than a variance of the USB port.

 

[upstateguy]

Quote:

Yes I am absolutely sure. There is no jitter issue in this case because the DAC does not use the USB clock. Think of it this  way, the USB port speed is much faster than the digital audio speed.and the clock is not the same.
 
However, what I said is only relevant to the DIGITAL part of an USB DAC. External noise and ground loop etc can still be coupled into power and ground of the DAC if the connection is not robust. For example if you have a cold solder joint or bad USB connection, and you have a lot electrical noise. But I would consider that a defective connection rather than a variance of the USB port.

I'm confused.  I have two different transports.  My older Blue Circle Thingee and a new FOTM HiFace.  The Thingee takes the USB clocked signal and sends it to my North Star DAC,. So in this case the signal was originally clocked by the computer and then again by the DAC, right?
 
The HiFace does something else.  It reclocks asynchronously with two separate onboard clocks. So it takes the USB clocked signal, recolcks it twice and sends it to the North Star, which then reclocks again?  Do you understand what is going on with these transports?  The more I think about it the less I'm sure of.

 
USG

 

[grokit]

I want an audiophile USB hub that is pro-level build quality, perhaps rack-mountable, and fully repairable with a bomber power supply and the ability to daisy chain more than one together if needed with no loss in quality. Also should have a few 10v ports for portable HDDs and iPads that need the extra power, at least a dozen completely discrete ports total. 
 
I can't even count all of the cheap hubs I have gone through, they all suck IME