xluben
500+ Head-Fier
- Joined
- Jan 4, 2005
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I don't really know what kind of response I'm gonna get from you guys (I don't know if anyone's really into speaker building/design), but I was thinking of trying a modified version of a Parts Express DIY design called the 'Golden Boys':
http://www.partsexpress.com/projects...oys/index.html
They are designed to be a low cost, garage/party-type speaker, not for critical listening. I posted some of my design thoughts in the PE forum (which is pretty cool, by the way, except for it's terrible layout), but I thought maybe someone here could help me refine what I've got so far. Here's what I'm thinking:
I have decided to upgrade the 12" woofer and the tweeter. The woofer I've choosen is PE #290-335. It is mentioned in the original article as a suitible replacement/upgrade. It has a stronger motor, higher sensitivity, lower Q, and it can be substituted with no changes to the crossover. The tweeter I'm going to use is PE #270-170. It was recommended by someone at the PE forum. He said the one used in the project was very harsh, and this one is better while still only costing ~$2 each. This tweeter will also allow me to align the drivers in the same size enclosure (2 ft^3). The only catch with the new tweeter is that I have to modify the crossover. The schematic I posted in the above pic is what he suggested. For the R (resistor) and C (capacitor) he suggested buying all of those values and trying them out to see which I liked best. Any thoughts on this area of the design? (I have no idea how to design a crossover).
Another hang up I have is that I've never made a speaker enclosure before. I'm probably just going to pick up a sheet of MDF from Home Depot, but I have no woodworking experience. Would they make some cuts for me? I've heard some places will, but I'm not sure which places and how many/how exact the cuts can be. If they'll at least cut them down to reasonable sizes my dad has a band saw back at my house. Would it be feasable to free-hand the driver openings with a dremel? I wouldn't bother flush mounting the drivers, so perfect circles wouldn't be an issue. I'm still debating how I want to finish these, spray paint would be cheap/easy, but I think I'd like to try some of the cheap PE vinyl peel and stick veneers.
I'm open to thoughts/suggestions, but these are meant to be a budget project, so I'm not interested in anysignificantly more expensive options (drivers, etc), but I am thinking of putting on handles and rubber feet (for ease-of-use).
http://www.partsexpress.com/projects...oys/index.html
They are designed to be a low cost, garage/party-type speaker, not for critical listening. I posted some of my design thoughts in the PE forum (which is pretty cool, by the way, except for it's terrible layout), but I thought maybe someone here could help me refine what I've got so far. Here's what I'm thinking:
I have decided to upgrade the 12" woofer and the tweeter. The woofer I've choosen is PE #290-335. It is mentioned in the original article as a suitible replacement/upgrade. It has a stronger motor, higher sensitivity, lower Q, and it can be substituted with no changes to the crossover. The tweeter I'm going to use is PE #270-170. It was recommended by someone at the PE forum. He said the one used in the project was very harsh, and this one is better while still only costing ~$2 each. This tweeter will also allow me to align the drivers in the same size enclosure (2 ft^3). The only catch with the new tweeter is that I have to modify the crossover. The schematic I posted in the above pic is what he suggested. For the R (resistor) and C (capacitor) he suggested buying all of those values and trying them out to see which I liked best. Any thoughts on this area of the design? (I have no idea how to design a crossover).
Another hang up I have is that I've never made a speaker enclosure before. I'm probably just going to pick up a sheet of MDF from Home Depot, but I have no woodworking experience. Would they make some cuts for me? I've heard some places will, but I'm not sure which places and how many/how exact the cuts can be. If they'll at least cut them down to reasonable sizes my dad has a band saw back at my house. Would it be feasable to free-hand the driver openings with a dremel? I wouldn't bother flush mounting the drivers, so perfect circles wouldn't be an issue. I'm still debating how I want to finish these, spray paint would be cheap/easy, but I think I'd like to try some of the cheap PE vinyl peel and stick veneers.
I'm open to thoughts/suggestions, but these are meant to be a budget project, so I'm not interested in anysignificantly more expensive options (drivers, etc), but I am thinking of putting on handles and rubber feet (for ease-of-use).