[jfunk]

We have recently started stocking the beyerdynamic range of headphones. Most of their models are pretty straight forward to pull apart but our favourite model, the DT1350, had me scratching my head for quite a few days while trying to dismantle it without damaging any of the parts. I have now figured it out so soon I should have made my first custom pairs and it opend up quite a few mod options like damping, mass loading and re-cabling.

Here is a quick guide to how I dismantled them

Stage one – I removed the pads, they are held on with double sided tape so you just need to pull them firmly and carefully and they will come off

 

Stage 2 – Removing the drivers.

This is the bit that took a bit of bravery and head scratching to figure out 

 Turns out they are just clipped into the housing a bit like the DT770 – there is a tiny gap which you can get a pry tool or screw driver in to leaver it up – it will eventually POP and then it comes out easily

 

Stage 3 – Unsoldering the cables.

If I have to explain this you probably should not be trying this LOL but inside you can see they went for a three core cable – there is a board they attach to with 4 tracks and 2 of them have a solder bridge to link the ground wires. When I re-wire them I will remove the solder bridge and make a 4 core braided cable and remove the solder bridge to give them separate ground wires down to the jack.

 

 

 

Stage 4 – Unclip the earcups from the yoke

This is pretty straight forward, The yoke has a bit of spring in it and with the drivers out the earcup flexes a bit and you just need to pull out the lugs to unclip it

 

 

Stage 5 – Removing the cable

These is a metal staple type thing inside the earcup – pull it out by inserting a screwdriver and levering it up and the cable will be released

 

Stage 6 – the fiddly bits 

Inside the earcup the wires connecting the left and right is held in place with a crimped brassy ring of metal – you need to open that out using a thin blade to release the cable and the rubber strain relief buts can be pulled out of the holes from the inside of the cup using some pliers.

 

 

Stage 7 – Removing the yoke from the headband.

These are held in by the plastic stoppers on the ends – I levered up the two plastic clips with a scalpel blade and then wiggled them off – than pull the yoke through



 

Finally I removed the rubber covers from the headband which have the cable running through. – The only bit I have not yet figured out is how to get the hinges apart – IF ANYONE HAS FIGURED THIS OUT LET ME KNOW

 

Hope this helps and if any one has any questions feel free to ask and I will do my best to answer them

J

 

 

[jfunk]

UPDATE - Turns out it is not just a solder bridge on the board inside the earcup it actually has a track in between the left and right ground rails so if you are going for seperate ground wires it is probably worth just making the wires for the right earcup longer and runing it straight through the headband rather than joining it in the earcup

 

[Twinster]

Very nicely detail instructions. Thank you for sharring with us. I also notice that your pair of DT1350 didn't have any damping material in the cups. I assume mine are older (sn 10378) and have Two layer of felt inside the cup.

 

[jfunk]

Quote:

Very nicely detail instructions. Thank you for sharring with us. I also notice that your pair of DT1350 didn't have any damping material in the cups. I assume mine are older (sn 10378) and have Two layer of felt inside the cup.

Interesting... these were S/N 13600 - I have ordered some more so I will let you know if this was just a freak pair or if they have now ditched the damping material 

 

[oddsratio]

edit: nevermind.

 

[brendanh]

Hello:
 
Would it be possible to repost or attach the images?  Looks like they were removed from the server and dont display in the post any longer.  I've just purchased a pair of these and would like to recable them.
 
Many thanks.

 

[jfunk]

  Hello:
 
Would it be possible to repost or attach the images?  Looks like they were removed from the server and dont display in the post any longer.  I've just purchased a pair of these and would like to recable them.
 
Many thanks.

Hi there,
             I will try to sort it out in a few days time - in the meantime the pics are still on facebook here https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=oa.10150996403484830&type=1

 

[hungrysam]

Hi I own a DT1350 and is considering re-cabling.  I like the sound signature of DT990 which I think offers better sound stage and bass.  Any suggestions on the cable I should consider if I want to improve it towards this direction?  Thanks for the sharing in advance.

 

[gixxerwimp]

 

jfunk /img/forum/go_quote.gif
  Hi there,
             I will try to sort it out in a few days time - in the meantime the pics are still on facebook here https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=oa.10150996403484830&type=1

 
Thanks to the description in the first post, and these photos, I was able to mod the DT 1350 with a female 3.5mm jack so I could swap cables.
 
Popped the driver off by levering just beside the tab midway between the board and the entry hole for the cable. In the photo, the u-shaped clip has been removed and the "rubber stopper" that holds the cable in place at the ear cup has been pushed out and is out of shot.

 
I cut the cable just above the "rubber stopper" in case I wanted to reverse the procedure and solder the wires back together inside the cup. Used a small round file to open up the hole. Soldered in a 3.5mm female jack and inserted it into the enlarged hole. There is plenty of clearance for the driver with the jack inserted as shown. I probably could have pushed it in about 5mm more and still had enough clearance. This would have made the outside of the cup tidier, and shortened the length of connector sticking out of the cup.
3.5mm female jack purchased here: http://www.lunashops.com/goods.php?id=4103

 

 
Testing the connections with a 3-button Android cable for Beats Solo HD: http://www.lunashops.com/goods.php?id=3373
The earpads are the "nubuck leatherette" EDT 1350 N from Beyerdynamic: http://europe.beyerdynamic.com/shop/edt-1350-n.html
The rolled up tissue paper tucked into the gap inside the pads is to make the profile the same as the stock pads and bring back the bass response that is lost with the nubuck pads. I was hoping this earpad mod would help with comfort, but the improvement is minimal. Might try these http://north-america.beyerdynamic.com/shop/edt-1350-sl.html or these http://north-america.beyerdynamic.com/shop/edt-51p.html

 
A bit of epoxy to hold the jack in place.

 
Pop the driver back in, stick earpad back on, and we're ready to go! Shown is a 1-button Android remote cable For Sennheiser HD598 from here: http://www.lunashops.com/goods.php?id=4764. I swapped the 2.5mm male connector with locking groove for this: http://www.lunashops.com/goods.php?id=4660

 

[gixxerwimp]

Spoiler: Mod Procedure

 

gixxerwimp /img/forum/go_quote.gif
  Thanks to the description in the first post, and these photos, I was able to mod the DT 1350 with a female 3.5mm jack so I could swap cables.
 
Popped the driver off by levering just beside the tab midway between the board and the entry hole for the cable. In the photo, the u-shaped clip has been removed and the "rubber stopper" that holds the cable in place at the ear cup has been pushed out and is out of shot.

 
I cut the cable just above the "rubber stopper" in case I wanted to reverse the procedure and solder the wires back together inside the cup. Used a small round file to open up the hole. Soldered in a 3.5mm female jack and inserted it into the enlarged hole. There is plenty of clearance for the driver with the jack inserted as shown. I probably could have pushed it in about 5mm more and still had enough clearance. This would have made the outside of the cup tidier, and shortened the length of connector sticking out of the cup.
3.5mm female jack purchased here: http://www.lunashops.com/goods.php?id=4103

 

 
Testing the connections with a 3-button Android cable for Beats Solo HD: http://www.lunashops.com/goods.php?id=3373
The earpads are the "nubuck leatherette" EDT 1350 N from Beyerdynamic: http://europe.beyerdynamic.com/shop/edt-1350-n.html
The rolled up tissue paper tucked into the gap inside the pads is to make the profile the same as the stock pads and bring back the bass response that is lost with the nubuck pads. I was hoping this earpad mod would help with comfort, but the improvement is minimal. Might try these http://north-america.beyerdynamic.com/shop/edt-1350-sl.html or these http://north-america.beyerdynamic.com/shop/edt-51p.html

 
A bit of epoxy to hold the jack in place.

 
Pop the driver back in, stick earpad back on, and we're ready to go! Shown is a 1-button Android remote cable For Sennheiser HD598 from here: http://www.lunashops.com/goods.php?id=4764. I swapped the 2.5mm male connector with locking groove for this: http://www.lunashops.com/goods.php?id=4660

 

 
The epoxy didn't hold, so I bought a glue gun and did this. I was able to push the jack in further so it doesn't stick out so far.

 

[PxOR]

this is very helpful. i had a pair with the cable connecting left and right worn out at the point where it goes into the headband. do you think it's easy to replace that?

 

[gixxerwimp]

I don't own mine anymore. But if you can get them open, then it should be easy enough to replace the L-to-R cable if you can find something suitable.

 

[PxOR]

  I don't own mine anymore. But if you can get them open, then it should be easy enough to replace the L-to-R cable if you can find something suitable.

Thanks!
 
I am not very good with those stuff myself (destroyed many before I realized that!), so i am extra careful
 
looks like i only need to remove the earpads, and then driver, and soldering on a new cable right? anything else i need to pay attention too? (the pictures are no longer available so i am doing guessing work here)

 

[gixxerwimp]

If you're not good with fiddly soldering, etc., I suggest you find someone else who can do the repair for you.
 
Since it's the cable running over the headband, you might consider just repairing that section of cable (cutting and resoldering) and then covering it with some heatshrink. This way you won't have to open up the cups. And the cable running between the cups seems to have custom molding to secure it to the cup, so you'll not likely find something similar.

 
Beware that the wires are not that easy to solder as they seem to be covered in a coating, even when you can see bare copper. Best to let someone more experienced do it for you.

 

[PxOR]

Thanks for the reply! might as well find a professional to do it. Now I'm worried about the custom placeholder thing...
 
I bought this slightly less than 3 years ago, and when i open the box i just knew this part would be a trouble maker down the road. I could not figure out how Beyer built this whole thing like a small tank (even huge jack to match), but used an expose wire so close to the joints to connect both ear cups To make it worse the cable was stiff to begin with. A design flaw really.