[Yang]

I just love the sound of this thing as it offers an alternative to my Sony D-303, not as warm, but more accurate, and liquid smooth. It sounds better than a CHA47 with average PCDP from headphone out (I didn’t really have a chance to fully test the line-out with my META42 yet, but it seems to be as good as you can get with a portable).

But man is it huge: almost twice the size of the D-303 and even more cumbersome than the D-555 from what I can remember. Since the DCP-100 was made to run on 1 or 2 of those old BP-E2X size lead acid batteries (which I don’t have nor plan to get), the thing wasn’t a real portable unit.

I really wanted it to run on some AAs like the D-303 since I have a ton of rechargeable batteries around. I did buy one of those 8AA battery holders (9.6V) for plugging into the 9V DC in, but it was just too much to carry with the wires especial considering I have an amp that works the same way with externally attached batteries.

I remembered the lead-acids to be 4V, so I took the thing apart, had a look inside and started a little project to make the unit run on 4AAs internally. Got it done today, so I was wondering maybe some others who have the unit might try it too (I know it is a rare unit and only a few others here have the unit).

Now it runs on 4.6V internally with rechargeable AAs. I was relieved that the unit seem to handle the extra juice pretty well. I ran it with repeat through 4 fully charged 1600mah Energizers and it lasted about 3-4hrs and sounds as good as ever.

Now all I need is to make it more shock proof. I read about something called “Sorbothane” here a while back, can someone please explain if it can help in this case?

 

[Audio Redneck]

Neat project

Quote:

Originally posted by Yang Now all I need is to make it more shock proof. I read about something called “Sorbothane” here a while back, can someone please explain if it can help in this case? [/IMG]

Sorbothane would be more for vibration control and less shock proofing. Sorbothane also requires a certain amount of mass to be of use in controlling vibrations. I take it you are talking about controlling skips while moving?

 

[LamerDeluxe (tm)]

I'm very interested in your project. I just received my Denon DCP-150 today! (the mail service had delivered it at a totally wrong adress, some company a few blocks away, insane)

This thing is built like a house, I bet you could stand on it, without damaging it (I'm not going to try that though

)
It's in excellent condition, looking like new, complete with shoulder bag. Got it for about $140.

I'm still testing the sound, I can only compare it to the D-99 I received yesterday, the D-99 also sounds pretty good (this is all through headphone out, using the MX-500). The D-99 was a bit dirty, so I opened it up, in the process breaking the megabass switch, doh! This thing actually has quite acceptable megabass IMO. It also skips a lot, so it needs lubrication.

I can't compare it to a D-25s yet, as the mail seems to have lost this one (it's been on it's way for three weeks now), long live the idiotic mail service.

I should be getting a complete defective Denon DCP-70 as well, I hope I'll be able to fix it. And then a white D-100 and some other stuff. And now I'm dead broke thanks to this forum

Anyway, back on topic. This one came with one Denon AP-11 batterypack, which might not work anymore (it doesn't upto now), so I might have to try to zap it.

But your AA battery project sounds really good! I much prefer using those batteries as I have a lot of NIMH batteries lying around and a one-hour smart charger for them.

I can't see your images though, except for the attachment. Is this project fully reversable? (so the value of the player wouldn't potentially decrease).

It doesn't seem to last that long on four NIMH batteries, I wonder how long it would work with two of those 550mAh battery packs.
The DC-in on the DCP150 is 6 volts btw.

 

[vwap]

Quote:

Originally posted by LamerDeluxe (tm) And now I'm dead broke thanks to this forum

Don't say we didn't warn ya... "Welcome to Head-Fi... Sorry about your wallet!"

 

[LamerDeluxe (tm)]

I've turned into a Discman collecting madman!!!

I need some therapy, is there a group for this somewhere?

 

[vwap]

Quote:

Originally posted by LamerDeluxe (tm) I've turned into a Discman collecting madman!!! I need some therapy, is there a group for this somewhere?

I think I'd fall into the same group..

I'd go for a therapy group...

 

[Yang]

LamerDeluxe (tm),

It is very easy if you can find the 2AA holders with wire terminals that fit. I got my in the US from Radio Shack.

1. Open the case from the underside.
2. Remove the 2 original battery holders by removing the screws.
3. Unsolder the original terminals at the right upper corner of the board (underside turned up facing you). REMEBER which solder joint on the board is for + and which is for -.
4. connect the blackwire terminal (-) from one of the AA cases with the red of the other (+) to create 4.6V using rechargeables.
5. Resolder the remaining two terminals of the AA cases to the board matching up the + and -.
6. Use double sided tape or velcro to secure the AA case in place. Just hide the extra wiring where it is not interfering with the motor.
7. Replace the underside cover.

The AA case I found is almost indentical in size with the original ones. Once finished, it is kind hard to open the AA cases without removing the undercover, but if you position them in the perfect spot, it is possible (after afew tries, I was able to). Also, you can just unsolder these AA cases and put the originals back without any problems.

As for how long the bettery lasts, using 4 1800mah should give you at least 1.64x longer battery life at 4.6V vs 4 V than two of the originals AP-11s (550 + 550 = 1100mah).

The thing is Radio Shack discontinued those 2AA cases a while back, so only one was left at my local store. For the other case, I had to buy a package made for testing LEDs that came with a similar 2AA case; you can see the difference btw the two cases in the photo. If you want, give me a e-mail and I will try to get more pics.

 

[LamerDeluxe (tm)]

Thanks for the explanation!

Wow, so those are actually AA battery holders, that's almost totally unnoticable. I was already wondering how you secured those battery terminals, but now I know

I hope I'll be able to find battery holders like that somewhere.

I wonder if you could somehow protect those batteries against getting charged by the player, by using diodes maybe.

 

[DanT]

Thanks for the idea Yang
I'v finaly done it with my denon dcp-100

here the batteries holder from radioshack I used

http://www.radioshack.com/product.as...5Fid=270%2D408

It think is those one.

It kind of fit with a bit of plastic bending but when it's in spot I find it easy to remove and put the cover and everything hold together I didn't use valcro or anything to hold the batteries holder maybe I should be it hold for now.

Here some picture from my crappy digital camera..

The black box are the old Denon battery pack,

So far so good. Much easir to carry around

 

[mekanoplastik]

mmmm...nice...

Dan....can you see the pcm66p chips or any opamp? if you do let me know

m.

 

[DanT]

I don't see it on the first lower PCB and I don't want to remove it to see the 2nd PCB right now. but I'm trying to get the service manual. I have found one source but those people are slow as hell to answer email.

 

[00940]

btw, a dcp70 went for 15$ on ebay this evening and i missed it because i forgot it

 

[DanT]

Quote:

Originally posted by mekanoplastik mmmm...nice... Dan....can you see the pcm66p chips or any opamp? if you do let me know m.

I have the service manual now.
the the 2 Burr-Brown PCM66P are on the small (audio/control) PCB you have to remove both PCB to see it because it's on the reverse side.

The amp is a Mitsubishi M51568FP that they call it a L.P.F. H/A AMP also on the small audio PCB

 

[obsoletemachines]

hi can you put up the DCP-100 service manual? please