[Lolito]

This one has two of those golden clocks, not sure if they are good or not, linear power supply, and usb input, several outputs, 150€, easily available, good reviews... is there any thread in this forum about it?

I think this is perfect match for ARES2, pricewise and connection wise, since ARES will only take the toslink. That will be the limit in resolution then, the bottle neck.
ARES 3 we need...


https://www.audiophonics.fr/en/digi...i2s-aes-2x-tcxo-otg-24bit-192khz-p-10547.html

 

[joseG86]

So I bought into the hype and got myself an Ares II... I've got pretty much an end game setup already but for 500€ it was worth a try. I've read and watched so many stuff about it that I feel I already have it lol

If it improves over my BF2 then I'll finally end my non-stop burn of money

 

[Slade01]

So I bought into the hype and got myself an Ares II... I've got pretty much an end game setup already but for 500€ it was worth a try. I've read and watched so many stuff about it that I feel I already have it lol

If it improves over my BF2 then I'll finally end my non-stop burn of money

I don't know if it necessarily is an "improvement" over a BF2 but will look forward to your impressions if you choose to share a comparison between the two in the future. Some friends who have had both say it equates to different flavors but equally good.

 

[AlanU]

I agree to all that, but you just keep avoiding the problem; let's find a DDC with reclocking, one that is good quality, good clocks, good price and good performance an reliability... As you write yourself, once asia picks up on this, it will be cheap. If the german version is 999€, taxes included, china can do that for 200€ easy, maybe 300€ at the beginning.

So, what woudl be a cheaper alternative than those 999€. The one for audiophonics france costs 150€ has clocks and 9 positive reviews.... 150€.

I repeat for the 5th time, 999€ usb reclcoker and cleaner, amazing, great, let's find one for 300€, because 300€ better than 999€, ok? for the poor people like me. thanks!!!!

Possibly look into a Singxer SU-1 or SU-2. I have no experience with this brand. That's a reasonably priced unit.

If your Dac or "cleaning DDC unit" does not have USB galvanic isolation between the noisy computer/streamer, it's a bridge to transfer noise into the DAC input.

Note that a unit's specs can be good but you must also deal with the weakest link. This weakness will be the quality of the cable's ability to reject noise. There is some talk of the shortest length coax as possible to retain the clock signal vs the older theory of 1.5 meters being the ideal length to prevent reflection/noise of signal.

After playing with USB or Coax, I have no desire to go USB/32bit at this moment. I'd suggest using the reclocking DDC to inject precise clock into a coax before using USB.

I fully understand that extremely high quality DDC re-clocking devices are expensive. If you use a high quality re-clocking DDC it will provide you excellent performance out of a lower cost ARES II DAC. I'd be bold to say it'll sound as good as a Pontus II using garbage usb signal.

The DDC device is just as critical as the DAC. If not more important. It's easier to hit audiofile grade "end game" cleaning of jitter buying a re-clocking DDC. You have more time in the world to choose a DAC. Just like camera gear, Pro grade lenses are forever and camera bodies come and go. In audio, having ultra clean signal is forever your goal and DACS are like going to an ice cream parlor......flavours, flavours and flavours. I like classic vanilla but don't care for strawberry. I don't care for Chord Dacs but i'd take a well implemented R2R or well designed non fatiguing musical dac. However, you MUST ALWAYS feed any dac with the best possible signal.

I'd take my ancient (almost threw it out) Burson DA-160 fed with Mutec over a Toppings D90 MQA fed with garbage usb jitter. If you look at the "price" of the DAC , the DA-160 can be purchased currently for the cost of 10 cheese burgers. Never did I think an 10+++ yrs outdated Burr Brown 1793 chipset can sound so musical and "well detailed" and oddly holographic like a detailed vinyl rig.

What you must realize is that you can analyze DACS based on it's pure performance. Many dacs fed with Jitter sounds edgy. This is where a more $$ dac can possibly "mask" jitter and still provide very good performance...... um um the Ares II. Give that little guy the same help Denafrips did to Pontus, Venus and Terminator and the playing field levels off a bit. I know that lower end dacs are there for strategic business lineup of products. I also know as a fact that a little brother ( or a DAC that I was going to throw out) can suddenly elevate to a much much higher level.....it's that obvious.

I separate the cost of DDC and DAC. I justify the cost of a DDC as a different system. Cost of DAC and performance ratio suddenly will change when it's fed treated source.

 

[simon740]

Hello,

I’m still a little scared if Ares II would fit well with my Exposure 3010S2D amp. Due to the input impedance. 17K Ohms minimum (line input).
I am choosing between Ares II and RME ADI-2 DAC FS.

regards,
Simon

 

[NehPets]

Hello,

I’m still a little scared if Ares II would fit well with my Exposure 3010S2D amp. Due to the input impedance. 17K Ohms minimum (line input).
I am choosing between Ares II and RME ADI-2 DAC FS.

regards,
Simon

At 27x the Ares II output impedance, I don't think you need to worry.

 

[sajunky]

Hello,

I’m still a little scared if Ares II would fit well with my Exposure 3010S2D amp. Due to the input impedance. 17K Ohms minimum (line input).
I am choosing between Ares II and RME ADI-2 DAC FS.

Ares is fine in general, better Audio GD R-1 2021 version. Accusilicon 318B fem-to-second clocks come now standard (that alone cover a cost difference to Ares) and no reclocking on USB port, I2S port for adding DDC later, low impedance output.

ADI-2 require a major decision in a different direction.

 

[joseG86]

So I got the Ares II and 30 minutes on, came in already burnt by original owner.

I usually listen to live music (classic, jazz, opera etc) so for me NOS mode is the best by far in my sistem: Organic, texturized, female vocals with 0 sibilance (I usually hear sibilances with sopranos), treble doesn't bright at all, bass just the right amount. Instruments feel real, everything sounds like it is supposed to sound if I was in there IRL, pure realism.

Very engaging so far, cannot compare to BF2 yet but this doesn't disappoint, not one bit. I'll let it on 24/7 now and see how improves with time

One question: Do you think the unscrew tricks from the German Audiophile on YT is worth it?

Cheers

 

[sajunky]

@joseG86. Don't do anything till sound open up to your ears, be patient.

 

[AlanU]

So I got the Ares II and 30 minutes on, came in already burnt by original owner.

I usually listen to live music (classic, jazz, opera etc) so for me NOS mode is the best by far in my sistem: Organic, texturized, female vocals with 0 sibilance (I usually hear sibilances with sopranos), treble doesn't bright at all, bass just the right amount. Instruments feel real, everything sounds like it is supposed to sound if I was in there IRL, pure realism.

Very engaging so far, cannot compare to BF2 yet but this doesn't disappoint, not one bit. I'll let it on 24/7 now and see how improves with time

One question: Do you think the unscrew tricks from the German Audiophile on YT is worth it?

Cheers

Try anti-vibration with darko's suggestion of door stop weights.



Or some traditional hardcore folks would remove the top of the unit or put the unit on top of a sandbox platform.

Recently I installed kernal streaming Audirvana Studio...................... I use Roon and Audirvana 3.5 (lifetime license). Roon has a fantastic "Roon Radio" but the SQ is utter average bland compared to Audirvana. The Audirvana Studio provides a more wrap around sound stage and the layers and depth is superb. It's truly one of the best software for streaming Tidal IMO experience. I'm trialing for free but for the subscription cost, it's a no brainer as it destroys Roon's sound quality output.

I will retain roon simply for it's incredible Roon Radio.

Lately I've been listening to 16/44.1 resolution and it's one of the most holographic, highly musical and detailed sound I've ever produced with my 2 channel. This is a software I'd urge anyone to test for free using their current dacs.

 

[daytrader]

Try anti-vibration with darko's suggestion of door stop weights.



Or some traditional hardcore folks would remove the top of the unit or put the unit on top of a sandbox platform.

Recently I installed kernal streaming Audirvana Studio...................... I use Roon and Audirvana 3.5 (lifetime license). Roon has a fantastic "Roon Radio" but the SQ is utter average bland compared to Audirvana. The Audirvana Studio provides a more wrap around sound stage and the layers and depth is superb. It's truly one of the best software for streaming Tidal IMO experience. I'm trialing for free but for the subscription cost, it's a no brainer as it destroys Roon's sound quality output.

I will retain roon simply for it's incredible Roon Radio.

Lately I've been listening to 16/44.1 resolution and it's one of the most holographic, highly musical and detailed sound I've ever produced with my 2 channel. This is a software I'd urge anyone to test for free using their current dacs.

 

[daytrader]

I‘ve had my stuff on and off anti-vibration materials a plenty, TT & Digital still do. But who really knows? Don’t be to crazy about it is my advise. I’ve read opinions on both sides of this coin. But if you must Amazon is your best low cost friend and if you can hear a difference then go after the pricey stuff.

 

[]eep]

So I got the Ares II and 30 minutes on, came in already burnt by original owner.

I usually listen to live music (classic, jazz, opera etc) so for me NOS mode is the best by far in my sistem: Organic, texturized, female vocals with 0 sibilance (I usually hear sibilances with sopranos), treble doesn't bright at all, bass just the right amount. Instruments feel real, everything sounds like it is supposed to sound if I was in there IRL, pure realism.

Very engaging so far, cannot compare to BF2 yet but this doesn't disappoint, not one bit. I'll let it on 24/7 now and see how improves with time

One question: Do you think the unscrew tricks from the German Audiophile on YT is worth it?

Cheers

I've watched a lot of videos from them and they seem pretty knowledgeable only this makes scratch my head. Why would that work? Tension on the pcb? I know that some things can produce strange results. Like screwing open a case, look at the inside to see that there's nothing wrong, close it up again and yet... it sounds different somehow!? So what happened, what changed? Is it suggestion. Listening, really active listening can be very difficult because often you don't have a baseline. Or forget. What I'm saying is; it could be true but I very much doubt it.

On the other hand, after I openened a case and I close it up again usually it objectively sounds a lot better. But that is because I change out parts that make a significant difference. I still have not done that to the Ares because I suspect I have nothing to work with (to small smd parts for my limited soldering skil/-station). But I know for a fact that the Ares is good, but not endgame when it comes to sustained piano notes and sopranos. I haven't found the cure yet.

 

[joseG86]

I've watched a lot of videos from them and they seem pretty knowledgeable only this makes scratch my head. Why would that work? Tension on the pcb? I know that some things can produce strange results. Like screwing open a case, look at the inside to see that there's nothing wrong, close it up again and yet... it sounds different somehow!? So what happened, what changed? Is it suggestion. Listening, really active listening can be very difficult because often you don't have a baseline. Or forget. What I'm saying is; it could be true but I very much doubt it.

On the other hand, after I openened a case and I close it up again usually it objectively sounds a lot better. But that is because I change out parts that make a significant difference. I still have not done that to the Ares because I suspect I have nothing to work with (to small smd parts for my limited soldering skil/-station). But I know for a fact that the Ares is good, but not endgame when it comes to sustained piano notes and sopranos. I haven't found the cure yet.

Pleasure to read you mate, I can't really believe getting any extra performance by unscrewing anything, I could only think of a possible alternate leak and unwanted noise

I fixed the piano thing with a DC coupled amp called Kinki THR-1, I play piano and if the recording is good enough I don't miss anything in any note, sopranos is a different story... I think there's only a few really good recordings of sopranos, I cannot now but I'm sure it depends on our ears and their sensitivity to those pitch notes

 

[Lolito]

Try anti-vibration with darko's suggestion of door stop weights.



Or some traditional hardcore folks would remove the top of the unit or put the unit on top of a sandbox platform.

Recently I installed kernal streaming Audirvana Studio...................... I use Roon and Audirvana 3.5 (lifetime license). Roon has a fantastic "Roon Radio" but the SQ is utter average bland compared to Audirvana. The Audirvana Studio provides a more wrap around sound stage and the layers and depth is superb. It's truly one of the best software for streaming Tidal IMO experience. I'm trialing for free but for the subscription cost, it's a no brainer as it destroys Roon's sound quality output.

I will retain roon simply for it's incredible Roon Radio.

Lately I've been listening to 16/44.1 resolution and it's one of the most holographic, highly musical and detailed sound I've ever produced with my 2 channel. This is a software I'd urge anyone to test for free using their current dacs.

i use audirvana also on my mac, better sound than itunes, and you can eq. the new audirvana estudio I have not checked it just yet.