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about your friend...I hope things work out
Thanks. He looks good today, but will go under the knife in the morning to find out what is really wrong and hopefully cure it. IMHO things look good, but it will be an "interesting" day.
Cross-posted from HeadWize DIY: "Opamp to Source Follower bias configuration":
Try this variation:
From DC to 50KHz, the MOSFET is under strict op-amp control. This gives low distortion and output impedance, and strict DC control. Above 100KHz, the op-amp just gives a nice steady drive voltage and the MOSFET works like a simple cathode follower.
Rgate is necessary (as you found) and now may be 47 to 1,000 ohms. Don't go outside this range. Inside this range, there will be some interaction with the op-amp's internal output impedance, so there may be slight effect with different chips. 100 or 220 ohms looks best to me for most situations. I'd be curious if you hear
any change with other values. (I think you should not.)
C5 and R4 are new. These are the key to MHz stability. These values should be good for most situations. Changes here should have little to "no" effect in the audio band, but large effects at radio frequencies.
I have changed the values of the feedback resistors so C5 and R4 don't load the op-amp badly. Gain turns out the same.
The LF411 op-amp and IRF150 MOSFET were just what I have in my simulator. I don't think you can even buy an LF411 today, and the IRF150 is
far bigger than this amp needs or wants. Use a pretty-good (not fantastic) op-amp with GBW of 10 to 30MHz and less than 10nA input bias current.
IDC is an "ideal" current source. A LM317 would be used in real life. 0.2A should be plenty in most headphones, and output Z or linearity is not an issue. And this current directly sets the total heat to be gotten rid of. However if you expect to clip the amp with
LOUD levels in low-Z phones, be generous. If the amp runs out of current on negative peaks, the op-amp goes crazy trying to urge the now-cutoff FET into reverse current, and recovery is messy for a microsecond after each clip. A big 30 to 50 ohm resistor will also work, but with more heat for less output.
V11, V12 are ideal signal generators; Rsource is to make them un-ideal. In real life your input jack or pot goes here. Rsource is not really needed in most cases, values from zero (short) to 2K or so would be typical good practice.
I have shown 12V power supplies but this is not critical. Stay
way over +-6V or you'll get gross clipping at small levels. +-20V is far more than a 32 ohm phone needs, just more heat. For Hi-Z-only duty, you might want +-15V to +-20V supplies (watch op-amp rating!) and a lower current in IDC (say 0.1A to 0.050A).
I show 1,000uFd power capacitors. If your power supply is very good and very close, these are not needed. If in doubt, use 1,000uFd or more very close to the amp. While it is Class-A, it has huge signal currents in the power supply and the supply needs to resist changes.
-PRR