DAC for 200-250$
May 10, 2012 at 1:44 PM Thread Starter Post #1 of 38

NoMatterWhat

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As I had a lot of trouble finding a DAC for the setup that I'm aiming for, DT 990 + La Figaro 336, I'm making a thread.I don't need the DAC to be portable, size doesn't matter, it doesn't need to be powered by batteries. All matters is performance and sound, would like it to be quite warm. Budget is 200-250$. I have digged throught a lot of threads but couldn't find any sure answer so decided to make this thread. 
Is the ZeroDAC any good as an entry level DAC? What about the new ODAC? I also read some about hrt msII, sometimes even a fubar 2 appears, which one would be the best for its price?
 
May 11, 2012 at 10:40 AM Post #2 of 38
Could anyone recommend me and explain why its performance is better then other competitors in this price range.
I read some about ZeroDAC, Fubar 2, HRT MSII, VDAC II, Youlong U100, AUdio-gd (different models), I just can't decide because there are a lot of opposite opinions about every of them.
 
May 11, 2012 at 10:52 AM Post #3 of 38
I have recently purchased a Teradak DAC V3.1D, and am pleased with The SQ. Not the last word in bass or treble extension, but a good soundstage, slightly warm balance and excellent midrange resolution. Microdynamics are also good.

If you haven't tried a NOS (non-oversampling) DAC yet, I would recommend giving it a try.
 
May 11, 2012 at 2:39 PM Post #4 of 38
Im currently reading about Non-oversampling and oversampling and which one is better in fact.
Could you send me some review of this DAC or some post about it?
Does anyone else have some other recommendations?
 
May 11, 2012 at 6:19 PM Post #5 of 38
i used hrt ms2 for about a year and loving it. however it does not handle 24/176 24/192 files.
 
now i am using the firestone iltw. it is a bit more expensive about usd 350 but it is non upsampling and can handle 24/176 24/192 async.
 
just dont expect too much from entry level dacs.
 
May 11, 2012 at 6:53 PM Post #6 of 38
I don't I just saw the term NOS DAC in the post in this thread and now I don't know which ones would be better in that pirce range.
Also from over-sampling DACs there are many to choose, and man I have no Idea what should I look on when choosing a DAC. 
Maybe it is worth to spend some more on AUdio-gd NFB-12 DAC section? Or maybe the Little Dot DAC_1 has really good performance.
 
May 11, 2012 at 11:00 PM Post #7 of 38
NOS DACs tend to be warmer and have less treble extension from what I've heard. Whether or not they are better, it depends on your preference in sound. I've tried one of them: the Schiit Bifrost and I wasn't a fan. It was too warm and laid-back sounding for me. NOS DACs seem to be more about having a liquid, and analog sound while oversampling DACs have a bit more bite to the notes, and are usually faster and more solid state sounding. More about detail than musicality and personally my preference.
From what I've read on the HRT MS2/MS2+ they have a NOS sound, though I'm not sure if the DAC itself is designed that way or not. The ODAC is supposed to be like a 'wire with gain' as in that it doesn't really have it's own signature, I'd expect a non-NOS design.
 
May 12, 2012 at 12:34 AM Post #8 of 38
Ultimately, the issue is less whether a DAC is NOS or not, but whether the output stage is properly-designed. Some of the best DACs on the market are NOS, and have excellent treble and bass extension, but they achieve this by having expensive tube-based filter and output stages (e.g. Audio Note). This is clearly not possible on a tight budget.

As NOS DACs tend not to have digital filtering, cheaper NOS DACs will be extremely simple in their architecture. The Teradak just takes 4 DAC chips per channel in parallel (to achieve the necessary gain to drive the preamp) and feeds this signal through a single 10uF capacitor. It doesn't get much simpler than that. The midrange, as I stated previously, is stunningly open and realistic, but there is a price to pay. This is not a typical "allrounder".

As for the LD DAC_1, I also have one of these in another system, and have had a chance to compare the two directly. The LD has significantly better extension at the frequency extremes and more dynamic "slam",but the midrange is grainier and sounds slightly artificial. Overall, it sounds noticeably "brighter".

I suspect, given your stated preference for a warmer sound, that you will prefer the Teradak (but don't expect window-rattling bass extension!).
 
May 12, 2012 at 12:34 AM Post #9 of 38
Ultimately, the issue is less whether a DAC is NOS or not, but whether the output stage is properly-designed. Some of the best DACs on the market are NOS, and have excellent treble and bass extension, but they achieve this by having expensive tube-based filter and output stages (e.g. Audio Note). This is clearly not possible on a tight budget.

As NOS DACs tend not to have digital filtering, cheaper NOS DACs will be extremely simple in their architecture. The Teradak just takes 4 DAC chips per channel in parallel (to achieve the necessary gain to drive the preamp) and feeds this signal through a single 10uF capacitor. It doesn't get much simpler than that. The midrange, as I stated previously, is stunningly open and realistic, but there is a price to pay. This is not a typical "allrounder".

As for the LD DAC_1, I also have one of these in another system, and have had a chance to compare the two directly. The LD has significantly better extension at the frequency extremes and more dynamic "slam",but the midrange is grainier and sounds slightly artificial. Overall, it sounds noticeably "brighter".

I suspect, given your stated preference for a warmer sound, that you will prefer the Teradak (but don't expect window-rattling bass extension!).
 
May 12, 2012 at 12:38 AM Post #10 of 38
Sorry about the double post. There seems to be something wrong with my Wi-Fi connection today.
 
May 12, 2012 at 12:46 AM Post #11 of 38
For your budget, why dont you take a look at audio gd nfb 3.1?

I have nfb 2 but I heard the soind is very similar with the 3.1.

To me, it definitely has one of the best designed analog stage and clean power supply.
 
May 12, 2012 at 12:56 AM Post #12 of 38
As I had a lot of trouble finding a DAC for the setup that I'm aiming for, DT 990 + La Figaro 336, I'm making a thread.I don't need the DAC to be portable, size doesn't matter, it doesn't need to be powered by batteries. All matters is performance and sound, would like it to be quite warm. Budget is 200-250$. I have digged throught a lot of threads but couldn't find any sure answer so decided to make this thread. 
Is the ZeroDAC any good as an entry level DAC? What about the new ODAC? I also read some about hrt msII, sometimes even a fubar 2 appears, which one would be the best for its price?


One important question has yet to be answered: will you be using USB or SPDIF? Many DACs which perform well on SPDIF disappoint via the USB input (meaning that you will have to buy a USB to SPDIF converter, such as the Audio-gd Digital Interface). Also, some USB DACs (notably the HRTs) don't have SPDIF inputs.....
 
May 12, 2012 at 5:40 AM Post #13 of 38
I would probably use what is better. I think that a PC has a SPDIF output and I also read that SPDIF is better. But do I need some special converters? 
Also why the comapnies create the usb intput if you can connect via SPDIF and in most cases it's better ?
Also what about that USB to SPDIF converter, does it sound better then normal SPDIF input?
Last question is, what about other popular DACs in that price range? 
I'v never meet with this aspect of NOS and OS DACs and I really don't know if in this price range the NOS DAC can be better, just because of the quality that it is made of .
 
May 12, 2012 at 6:12 AM Post #14 of 38
SPDIF (Sony / Philips Digital Interface Format) is the Lingua Franca of digital audio. It's the format used by the coaxial digital output of your CD or DVD player, and has been around since the early 80s (at least). Increasingly, however, audiophiles (and others) are using DACs off a PC rather than an audio component, and few PCs have SPDIF out ( if you're lucky, you may have TOSLINK optical out, e.g. on some MacBooks). Therefore, for computer audio, a USB input is necessary. This does, however, require a different receiver chip, and is limited to 96/24 (although this is frankly a moot point at this price level). The problems with USB are threefold: (I) often jitter via USB is quite high, hence the trend towards "asynchronous" implementations (again, these cost more), (II) the DAC is not galvanically isolated from the PC, so it is prone to interference from its cheap PSU (I have this problem with my DAC_1 running off my Lenovo laptop), and, finally, (III) USB incorporates a 5V DC power line, so many DAC designers decide to dispense with the expensive, bulky power supply and just use USB power. IMHO, this is a very bad idea.

So, if you have access to a source with SPDIF, I would most definitely use it! But that rules out DACs like the HRTs.....

Re. NOS, you need to decide if you would, at your price point, rather have something which does most things well and has no major weaknesses (e.g Audio-gd NFB 3.1), or something which does some things spectacularly well (up there with genuine high-end components), but can't do some other things at all! To use a motoring analogy (after all, I work in the motor industry), think of cheap(ish) NOS DACs like the Teradak as a Lotus Elise: on a dry, clear Welsh A-road, there is little that can touch it, but as a family car, it is useless!

Getting back to basics, what source are you intending to use? This will ultimately determine any informed recommendation. Your amp and cans are both excellent at their respective price points (and work very well together), but you amp will most definitely benefit from re-tubing with high-quality NOS tubes. There is at least one thread dedicated to this topic! The stock Chinese tubes will limit SQ significantly!

http://www.head-fi.org/t/193214/darkvoice-336-336i-tuberolling-tubes
 
May 12, 2012 at 9:43 AM Post #15 of 38
Thank you good man, I really appreciate your help, I found It every useful.
My motherboard has those Outputs
 - 1 x Coaxial SPDIF Out Port
- 1 x Optical SPDIF Out Port
.I think these are the proper ones?
Who did you mean when you said "Getting back to basics, what source are you intending to use?
Did you mean whether I will use DAC into PC or as a audio component ? If yes then, I will connect it to PC and then connect AMP to it and HP to AMP't
I have to rely on your opinion about NOS Dacs because I cant find any review of this Teradak, so I hope you would recommend me good stuff.
What am I looking for it to have a suitable DAC for those DT 990 which has a lot of treble and bass and a bit reccessed mids.
 

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