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cracked DT880 housing.. order new part / try to repair / custom paint?

  1. atarione
    It would seem something has gone sideways with my DT889 Premium 250ohms..

    after taking with Beyer apparently I can order a new right cablinet for $24~ plus shipping this is likely the least mad option.

    some small part of me is temped to get some expoxy / filler and try to repair the damage and then custom pain said repaired cabinet (and undamaged) left cab I guess..


    I feel like ordreing a new part and putting them back to stock is certainly the less risky option?

    thoughts?

    crack1.jpg

    crack is somewhat substantial certainly.
     
    Last edited: Jul 12, 2019
  2. GREQ
    At that price I think you only have to weigh your options towards what you value more between saving time or spending time for fun.

    The total cost of DIY parts including glue, good quality spray paint, sanding paper etc is about the same (give or take) as the single replacement part.
    Maybe more if you want to add a nice transparent gloss overcoat (of course you do).
    That said, any DIY project carries more risk, especially the soldering part.
    I think I've only toasted one driver about 10 years ago, but that was because of inexperience and poor planning.
     
  3. atarione
    fair enough..good things to think about.. soldering will be needed either way however as you have to de-solder the driver to get the old ear cup off / new one on

    I have solder a few diver wires on various headphone previously and I have a adjustable temp soldering station so I **think it will be fine.. not much choice sending them back to beyer for repair would basically cost to much (might as well buy a new pair at that point).
     
  4. GREQ
    Since you've got he tools and experience I'm sure it should be fine.
    If you're feeling paranoid you could just snip the cables a short length away from the driver to minimize heat transfer to the driver coil, and just re-solder them together afterwards.
    That might need a tiny extra length of spare wire and ideally a thin heat-shrink tube to cover it up... not the prettiest, but inside the cup should be fine, and definitely the safest way to do it.

    Out of the hundreds of headphones I've taken apart, these modern Beyers are definitely some of the easiest, most modular designs I've ever seen, and havn't changed much at all since the 1980's.
    The only tricky part is making sure you don't perforate the paper baffle when popping off the retainer ring, and taking note of the notch at the top of the ring which has to go back in, in the same orientation.

    It's usually difficult to break these things... I'm actually kind of weirdly impressed it broke the way it did. Never seen that before. :D
     

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