CMoy Build Questions
Jul 23, 2008 at 3:12 AM Thread Starter Post #1 of 26

arande2

100+ Head-Fier
Joined
Jan 15, 2008
Posts
111
Likes
11
I found that my Altoids tin is too small to fit my amp board in it, so does anyone have a thought as to what to put it in?

The problem with ordering the Serpac H-67 (or anything internet) is the cost of shipping. Then there are the RadioShack project boxes.

Any thoughts?

Arande2
 
Jul 23, 2008 at 3:36 AM Post #2 of 26

breakfastchef

500+ Head-Fier
Joined
Jan 22, 2008
Posts
913
Likes
11
You are only limited by your imagination. Check out three of my Cmoy builds.

m_CocktailShakerCMoy.jpg


m_SwissArmyMoyClosed.jpg


m_FatBoyMoyClosed.jpg
 
Jul 23, 2008 at 5:06 AM Post #7 of 26

MusicallySilent

500+ Head-Fier
Joined
May 11, 2007
Posts
837
Likes
0
Pretty much no limit, just look for other random tins lying around your house from various things. The best part about that truck is the ability to roll opamps on the engine :p
 
Jul 23, 2008 at 4:26 PM Post #11 of 26

TzeYang

500+ Head-Fier
Joined
Mar 19, 2006
Posts
960
Likes
10
Not that hard:

Amp + Trickle Charger + On Board Regulator.

How about trying to minimize the circuit with your own layout instead of default tangent's?
PICT1908.jpg


Well i'm arguably cheating because this mint tint is slightly thicker.
 
Jul 23, 2008 at 7:17 PM Post #13 of 26

arande2

100+ Head-Fier
Joined
Jan 15, 2008
Posts
111
Likes
11
Quote:

Originally Posted by TzeYang /img/forum/go_quote.gif
Not that hard:

Amp + Trickle Charger + On Board Regulator.

How about trying to minimize the circuit with your own layout instead of default tangent's?
PICT1908.jpg


Well i'm arguably cheating because this mint tint is slightly thicker.



Ahh yes I see it's all stuffed on there nicely. I see the regulator bent to its side and everything is placed where it works.

The thing is, your board only has one large power cap (due to your rail splitter) and (I *think* I see) some tantalum caps.

OTOH, my board (basically Tangent's layout, yes) has 2 470uf 25v electrolytic caps, 2 .27uf film caps, and 2 .1uf film caps (part of bass boost). My board is packed more due to my stuffing a switched RC circuit into the feedback loop (which might not have worked with panel components fitting anyway in the normal mint tin). Caps can't be bent to the sides to fit (and it closed when I held it down, but it didn't stay there). I have to admit, I really like the gold and black FM caps
smily_headphones1.gif
The Vishay/Dale resistors are a really cool looking blue as well.
smily_headphones1.gif


At the same time, I was planning on putting 2 9v batteries in with the amp board.


Ah, well.



Also, after initial testing a couple days ago... When I tried to take the op-amp out (I had to solder right by it and under it), I accidentally pulled one side out first and the leads got slightly bent to the side. Hopefully I can bend them back to fit back into the socket. Do you think I'll have any problems with the op-amp? It seemed to look like it didn't have any damage physically.
 
Jul 23, 2008 at 11:44 PM Post #14 of 26

diredesire

100+ Head-Fier
Joined
May 1, 2005
Posts
429
Likes
11
Quote:

Originally Posted by arande2 /img/forum/go_quote.gif
Ahh yes I see it's all stuffed on there nicely. I see the regulator bent to its side and everything is placed where it works.

The thing is, your board only has one large power cap (due to your rail splitter) and (I *think* I see) some tantalum caps.

OTOH, my board (basically Tangent's layout, yes) has 2 470uf 25v electrolytic caps, 2 .27uf film caps, and 2 .1uf film caps (part of bass boost). My board is packed more due to my stuffing a switched RC circuit into the feedback loop (which might not have worked with panel components fitting anyway in the normal mint tin). Caps can't be bent to the sides to fit (and it closed when I held it down, but it didn't stay there). I have to admit, I really like the gold and black FM caps
smily_headphones1.gif
The Vishay/Dale resistors are a really cool looking blue as well.
smily_headphones1.gif


At the same time, I was planning on putting 2 9v batteries in with the amp board.


Ah, well.



Also, after initial testing a couple days ago... When I tried to take the op-amp out (I had to solder right by it and under it), I accidentally pulled one side out first and the leads got slightly bent to the side. Hopefully I can bend them back to fit back into the socket. Do you think I'll have any problems with the op-amp? It seemed to look like it didn't have any damage physically.



No big deal, it should work fine.
 
Jul 25, 2008 at 2:56 AM Post #15 of 26

arande2

100+ Head-Fier
Joined
Jan 15, 2008
Posts
111
Likes
11
I have another question, and will have more later.

After finding a new case (brown), I found it has space for up to 4 9v batteries.

If I were to use 3, I could get ±14.4v supply rails with full batteries. The problem is, the caps are rated 25v and if the voltage collapsed to one side before the batteries got down below 25v, I would probably lose a cap. OTOH, I could just run 2 sets of 18v batteries in parallel to make it have the same internal impedance of one battery, but twice the voltage. That seems better since I can get twice the life (80 hours?).

For now, I'll run from 2 9v batteries.

The actual question I have is: The calculated max DC offset of my opamp with the RC circuit disconnected is 2.04mv. Is this significant? BTW, it's 13.3µw. >> With the RC circuit engaged, it's supposedly 14.1mv and .01mw. I doubt that's going to be a problem, but I will check the actual amount on my amplifier. It's not too high, right? I mean.. I didn't hear any pops on turn-on when I first tested the amplifier without the RC circuit.
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Top