[Ike1985]

Guys ive been using Pi2aes with my Hugo2 via optical (noticeable improvement in SQ) and would like to compare the Pi2aes to my Macbook pro (intel 2019, 4x usb C ports) outputting optical. What sort of device do I need to connect the optical cable to my laptop?

Also has anyone tried the Brise Yatono shielded cable for USB?

https://briseaudio.com/en/collections/usb/products/accurate-usb

Was looking to get the USB-C to Micro B version.

 

[Uberding]

I’m using this for MacBook to Hugo2 via optical.

https://www.smsl-audio.com/portal/product/detail/id/808.html

I got mine from Amazon.
The Amazon listing says it’s a DAC but it’s not.

 

[hakunamakaka]

Guys ive been using Pi2aes with my Hugo2 via optical (noticeable improvement in SQ) and would like to compare the Pi2aes to my Macbook pro (intel 2019, 4x usb C ports) outputting optical. What sort of device do I need to connect the optical cable to my laptop?

Also has anyone tried the Brise Yatono shielded cable for USB?

https://briseaudio.com/en/collections/usb/products/accurate-usb

Was looking to get the USB-C to Micro B version.

There are USB isolators like Holo Audio USB turbo/Intona USB Isolator which I use at the moment, but if you want to use optical DDC is a place to go.

Douk Audio 2 pro is a budget option which I have it for sale, but if you don’t mind larger boxes Gustard U18/Denafrips Iris and there are many others.

 

[Foyzy]

Hi all, I’m currently running my Sony MDR-Z1Rs with a Mojo 2 and thinking about upgrading the dac / amp to a Hugo2. Couple of questions:

- Will I notice a significant improvement in SQ over the Mojo2? In what way will the sound be better?

- I listen mainly to electronic music (house and techno) so really need good bass slam (as well as detail and soundstage). I normally run the Mojo2 EQ tweaked with the sub bass and mid bass up a couple of notches. Will I find the Hugo2 lacking that bass slam that I need, as I’ve heard it’s quite cold and analytical? Or will the filters enable me to reach the slightly warmer bassier sound I can get with the Mojo2?

Or should I just play safe and do what most Z1R owners seem to do and get a Sony TA-ZH1ES?!

Thanks in advance.

 

[ChrisGB]

Hi all, I’m currently running my Sony MDR-Z1Rs with a Mojo 2 and thinking about upgrading the dac / amp to a Hugo2. Couple of questions:

- Will I notice a significant improvement in SQ over the Mojo2? In what way will the sound be better?

- I listen mainly to electronic music (house and techno) so really need good bass slam (as well as detail and soundstage). I normally run the Mojo2 EQ tweaked with the sub bass and mid bass up a couple of notches. Will I find the Hugo2 lacking that bass slam that I need, as I’ve heard it’s quite cold and analytical? Or will the filters enable me to reach the slightly warmer bassier sound I can get with the Mojo2?

Or should I just play safe and do what most Z1R owners seem to do and get a Sony TA-ZH1ES?!

Thanks in advance.

https://www.head-fi.org/threads/chord-electronics-hugo-2-the-official-thread.831345/post-17650015

I'd say the Hugo 2 won't give you the capability to boost bass. Unless the Sony has a really good EQ, I'd stick with the Mojo 2.

Hugo 2 gives you what is recorded. I listen to a lot of electronic music, The Orb being a particular favorite, and I find the Hugo 2 excellent. I did have a Mojo 2 and I used to add 2db to the 20Hz band. I only missed that for an hour or so, once my brain adapted to the Hugo 2 presentation. However, if your tastes are for altered frequency response, it doesn't have that facility. Best bet is to audition one!

 

[MarkParity]

Hi all, I’m currently running my Sony MDR-Z1Rs with a Mojo 2 and thinking about upgrading the dac / amp to a Hugo2. Couple of questions:

- Will I notice a significant improvement in SQ over the Mojo2? In what way will the sound be better?

- I listen mainly to electronic music (house and techno) so really need good bass slam (as well as detail and soundstage). I normally run the Mojo2 EQ tweaked with the sub bass and mid bass up a couple of notches. Will I find the Hugo2 lacking that bass slam that I need, as I’ve heard it’s quite cold and analytical? Or will the filters enable me to reach the slightly warmer bassier sound I can get with the Mojo2?

Or should I just play safe and do what most Z1R owners seem to do and get a Sony TA-ZH1ES?!

Thanks in advance.

As @ChrisGB said you will loose the EQ, it may be worth waiting for Hugo3 which will have the Mojo2's lossless EQ, probably with more bands and more control (probably)

If you just want more of Chord's awesomeness then the Hugo2 will give you some more of that, will you notice much difference in SQ, probably not but it costs a lot more so if nothing else your mind will it make it sound better, it must be right cos it cost more.

I use my Hugo2/2Go on my desk and the Mojo2/Poly when out and about so that's how I justified spending £4K+ on Chord DAC's and Streamers.

 

[Maxfocal]

Hello, does anyone here use their Hugo 2 as DAC for a TOTL tube amp? I am wondering wether it's good enough or if I should be looking into something like the TT2, Holo May, etc.

 

[Ike1985]

I'm looking at building one of these to function as a Raspberry Pi Streamer(wireless input to device, optical out to Hugo2), it has a re-clocking function built in. Does that mean it will affect sound quality or is it's re-clocking function irrelevant since the Hugo2 will re-clock the signal itself? Does this apply to all inputs for example if I wanted to use USB to Hugo2 instead of Optical.

https://www.audiophonics.fr/en/dac-...r-digital-audio-interface-module-p-16714.html

Thank you

 

[Ike1985]

Hello, does anyone here use their Hugo 2 as DAC for a TOTL tube amp? I am wondering wether it's good enough or if I should be looking into something like the TT2, Holo May, etc.

I use an ALO CDM with mine at times, works great.

 

[Boldakov]

Hello, does anyone here use their Hugo 2 as DAC for a TOTL tube amp?

I'm using Hugo 2 with Auris Nirvana Mk2 -- this pair sounds good,
but total sound quality depends more on your digital transport placed just before Hugo 2 in your sound chain

I am wondering wether it's good enough or if I should be looking into something like the TT2, Holo May, etc.

No limit here, no "good enough" term in sound quality domain -- it's just unlimited story
Just adding money and adding sound quality )
If you choose between Hugo 2 and TT2 but using a single PC or a laptop -- 100% choose Hugo 2 and spend difference on a streamer or DAP, on USB cable or any other digital transport

 

[AnalogEuphoria]

I'm looking at building one of these to function as a Raspberry Pi Streamer(wireless input to device, optical out to Hugo2), it has a re-clocking function built in. Does that mean it will affect sound quality or is it's re-clocking function irrelevant since the Hugo2 will re-clock the signal itself? Does this apply to all inputs for example if I wanted to use USB to Hugo2 instead of Optical.

https://www.audiophonics.fr/en/dac-...r-digital-audio-interface-module-p-16714.html

Thank you

It applies to all inputs but don't worry about it because Hugo 2 will handle it easily.

 

[574206]

I'm too lazy to write another post, so copy and paste from sister thread qutest which needs a 5V alternative power source much more:


---------------------------


I hope I'm not intruding. I opened up Pandora's Box about Mains back in the day on Chord threads. I'm just making a drive-by post then back in September a bit when I have more energy. We love our drive-bys in Los Angeles.

I've been wanting to build a Off-Mains USB Charger for my Hugo₂ for quite a while.

Problem: My Hugo₂ and USB optical cable was always connected to Mains power via a USB charging port. It's a loophole for noise to get in the chain.

So I wanted to cut off from Mains, but there are no solutions available. My Hugo₂ needs to be charged for 24 hours before entering "Intelligent Desktop Mode", so batteries for charging will not work as it would reset "Intelligent Desktop Mode". The wall outlet charger supplied with the Hugo₂ will not work since it is Mains.

Solution: UltraCapacitors to the rescue. My Hugo₂ has now been in "Intelligent Desktop Mode" for 3 straight days charged by UltraCapacitors with minimal Mains involvement. Mains is needed for a few minutes to charge the Ultracapacitors about 6 times over 24 hours.

Here is the USB Solid Core cable I created with 3M Heat Shrink to be used with the UltraCapacitor:



I believe Solid Core wiring to be impenetrable since it's completely solid. So noise getting into traditional wiring was a thing, noise getting into solid core wiring I don't believe to be a thing. 12 gauge from PCB to Ultra-capacitors. 22 gauge USB from PCB to Hugo₂ or Ultra-Capacitors to USB optical @5V.

Rob Watts runs his own Solid Core Recipe for speaker cables to B&W Diamonds. He has an unlimited budget, but yet chooses Solid Core. Hmmm? Here, it's for power use as I already have the best CIEM cable one can acquire with WBT RCA OUT. So presently, I have the world's best 5V Power Supply, world's best CIEM cable and world's best Toslink source so basically world's best CIEM chain.

3000 Farads, Dynamic Amps up to 1000A, < 0.5 milliohms so very close to bare metal low latency performance as you can get.

For example, Hugo₂ output impedance is outstanding and you know you are getting quality:



So it turned out to be a successful Summer Project. I was really concerned this wouldn't work as the Ultracapacitor and Hugo₂ need to play nice with one another. I'm hoping to get 21 straight days of "Intelligent Desktop Mode".

Now I have to research Qutest power input if it's the same as the Hugo₂. I'm really rusty at this hobby so please forgive not knowing the power input.

I really think battery packs are for charging only, not to power audio. There's too much down-conversion from 13.2V to 12V or up-conversion 3.3V to 5V. If there is not conversion involved that's okay. For example, I've been running this since the start of COVID.

You can run it @ 4 batteries @ 13.2V (4 X 3.3V) or 5 batteries @ 16.5V (5 X 3.3V):



It has a 2.5mm DC plug with Solid Core Silver wiring. Notice the stiffness. So this should be able power a TT₂ or HMS.

Now, I recommend just going straight to Ultra-Capacitors and bypassing batteries altogether, Ultra-Capacitors should last a good decade. Batteries are too finicky.

These are highly-regarded battle-tested UK Ultra-capacitors that you will find all over UK International Airports @ Command And Control and Mission Critical UPS devices so it's super high quality. If Airports can rely on UltraCapacitors, your home HiFi gear should be okay too.

 

[User9876]

3000 Farads, Dynamic Amps up to 1000A, < 0.5 milliohms so very close to bare metal low latency performance as you can get.

I'm not sure I really understand the point of this to power Hugo2. It has its own batteries, if I want the cleanest possible sound I just unplug from the PSU completely.

I get it for other USB powered DACs but it doesn't really apply here.

 

[elira]

I'm not sure I really understand the point of this to power Hugo2. It has its own batteries, if I want the cleanest possible sound I just unplug from the PSU completely.

I get it for other USB powered DACs but it doesn't really apply here.

It makes sense if you want to keep it in desktop mode.

 

[audionewbi]

I've been writing notes about the flagship dap currently in my positions and randomly switch to my Hugo (first gen). It firmly stands its own ground and I absolutely get and appreciate what WTA filter has to offer.

Maybe my final DAP shouldn't be a DAP after all.