CHORD ELECTRONICS DAVE

[jonstatt]

Fantastic! Another combination of cable and source that’s confirmed to work at 192kHz with Dave, without hacking at the cable connector.

But your Aries output signal integrity must also be very good.

For sh!ts and giggles, did you try the stock optical cable that came with Dave, in between Aries and Dave? Was is ok at 192kHz also?

Thanks for sharing.

I did try the stock cable and it didn’t work. The Aries end had too much movement with the connector and the 192kHz was flickering on and off the display. The Aries needs the more substantial connector to give a secure fit.

 

[flyte3333]

I did try the stock cable and it didn’t work. The Aries end had too much movement with the connector and the 192kHz was flickering on and off the display. The Aries needs the more substantial connector to give a secure fit.

More fantastic information. Sharing combinations of cable AND source that works with cables that don't need to be modified, will help a lot of people.

To be fair to Rob, he can't test every source on the planet during development. He just needs to prove that Dave does what it says on the tin with the supplied cable, so if it works with his MSI laptop's optical output at 192kHz, then it does what it says on the tin.

I don't want to flog a dead horse so it's the last time I'll mention it again - the only funny/strange thing about Dave's optical input here is that the same chain (source and cable) working with Mojo and Hugo2 at 192kHz flawlessly is not guaranteed to work with Dave.

Anyway if more of us shared working combinations it means less new-user frustrations (if this thread is searched/read).

I've got a couple affordable cables coming next week and will test a Bluesound Node2 and a friend's better USB converter (better than I have anyway) and will share what does work at 192kHz.

 

[DMck2000]

I hear you about the traffic! But if you can find a good dealer and build a relationship it is worth it. They can help with synergies and tailoring a system to your sound preferences, which is the most important aspect hi-fi, I think. Plus give good advice on what's worthwhile to spend money on and what is not so important. Blu II is probably #1 on my list right now. I don't even want to listen to it yet because I know I'll place an order. Enjoy!

Thanks lol. I am definitely looking into buying DAVE. The only problem is that it is really expensive new, so I'll probably get their demo model when I have the appropriate funds someday.

 

[flyte3333]

It's been discussed before of course but this was a reminder to myself about how jitter is a well and truely solved issue with Rob's DACs...

I hear no difference between Dave's optical input and battery powered USB source (iPod Touch Roon Endpoint) - bit perfect playback for both of course.

I used a 2m Supra USB cable (90 ohm High Speed certified) to keep the iPod away from Dave and my headphones.

It's not a perfect apples to apples jitter-only comparison of course because at a guess, the USB interface may consume quite a bit more power (and generate a little more internal noise internally?) than the Toslink interface? And the DPLL may generate a little noise with Toslink?

But still, it's very cool. If the sample rate limitations of PCM192kHz and DSD64 (DoP) aren't a problem for you, you really should try optical.

@Rob Watts - please make sure the next M-Scaler includes at least one optical input ! Unless you can optically isolate the M-Scalers BNC outputs internally.... then I can truely let go of Toslink

A self edit - a TOSlink input on a future M-Scaler won't block leakage currents between M-Scaler and Dave's PSU's.

So internally optically isolated M-Scaler BNC outputs are top of my wish/dream list Rob !

 

[Hifi Boy]

Whatever it takes so that we don't have to buy a tonne of ferrites and uglify our cables with them.

 

[Malcyg]

I love to hear impressions from anyone that has TOTL CIEMs like the A18t, Fourte, Zeus XR, VE8, UM Mason V3, SE 5 Way Ultimate, UE18+ etc and how they interacted with the Dave with regard to resolution, stage, layering, separation, all the basics.

I can’t comment on any of the models you have mentioned, but I do have JH Audio Layla which probably sit within that grouping. I had noticed some people claim that the Layla’s could compete with high end headphones and HD800’s were specifically being mentioned. I thought this was a slightly extravagant claim, so I decided to check it out. I tried Layla v HD800 through my MojoPoly (and AK380) and was surprised to find that I preferred Layla. I subsequently tried both through Hugo2 and it was quite a close call. I then tried both into my BluDave and the HD800 easily surpassed the Layla’s - it wasn’t even close, quite a big difference.

I would gather from that that both phones just suit their intended purpose with an appropriate source for that application. HD800, and especially my HE-1000 V2, scale dramatically with BluDave whereas the Layla’s simply don’t - in fact I found BluDave to highlight their deficiencies more than anything. I have found that BluDave can do this unfortunately because it is such a fantastic source. By contrast, the HD800 into Mojo or AK380 seem relatively flat and lifeless (compared to BluDave) whereas the Layla’s do very well. Hugo2 seems to cross the divide quite well with both HD800 and Layla sounding very good, but Layla is probably up at it’s peak with H2 whereas the HD800 is just starting to get going. For H2 and BluDave, the volume has to be set really way down low for Layla’s.

I’m quite happy about this because it suits how I use my phones which, depending upon circumstances, is:

Layla - MojoPoly, AK380, H2
HD800 - H2
HE-1000 V2 - BluDave

I don’t use them anymore since getting Layla, but results were similar with my SE846, although this may mean nothing depending upon which CIEM you use and impedance matching etc. If you only use IEM’s, then you’d be well advised to test them out with a Dave to see how well they match. I suspect that to do Dave justice, it may be a lot easier to achieve with headphones as opposed to IEM’s. Probably quite a bit cheaper as well. Layla’s are twice the price of HD800.

 

[ray-dude]

I can’t comment on any of the models you have mentioned, but I do have JH Audio Layla which probably sit within that grouping. I had noticed some people claim that the Layla’s could compete with high end headphones and HD800’s were specifically being mentioned. I thought this was a slightly extravagant claim, so I decided to check it out. I tried Layla v HD800 through my MojoPoly (and AK380) and was surprised to find that I preferred Layla. I subsequently tried both through Hugo2 and it was quite a close call. I then tried both into my BluDave and the HD800 easily surpassed the Layla’s - it wasn’t even close, quite a big difference.

I would gather from that that both phones just suit their intended purpose with an appropriate source for that application. HD800, and especially my HE-1000 V2, scale dramatically with BluDave whereas the Layla’s simply don’t - in fact I found BluDave to highlight their deficiencies more than anything. I have found that BluDave can do this unfortunately because it is such a fantastic source. By contrast, the HD800 into Mojo or AK380 seem relatively flat and lifeless (compared to BluDave) whereas the Layla’s do very well. Hugo2 seems to cross the divide quite well with both HD800 and Layla sounding very good, but Layla is probably up at it’s peak with H2 whereas the HD800 is just starting to get going. For H2 and BluDave, the volume has to be set really way down low for Layla’s.

I’m quite happy about this because it suits how I use my phones which, depending upon circumstances, is:

Layla - MojoPoly, AK380, H2
HD800 - H2
HE-1000 V2 - BluDave

I don’t use them anymore since getting Layla, but results were similar with my SE846, although this may mean nothing depending upon which CIEM you use and impedance matching etc. If you only use IEM’s, then you’d be well advised to test them out with a Dave to see how well they match. I suspect that to do Dave justice, it may be a lot easier to achieve with headphones as opposed to IEM’s. Probably quite a bit cheaper as well. Layla’s are twice the price of HD800.

My experience was similar when I did scaling tests for my various headphones/CIEMs against Mojo/Hugo2/DAVE

In my case, my Noble Katana CIEMs scaled very nicely from Mojo to Hugo2 to DAVE, but my Senn HD800's (SR modded) had a slight edge once I got to the DAVE. The Katana's had good detail, but were slightly blurred when compared to the Senns. I also found that they fell a little short of my MrSpeakers Closed Aeon Flows once I got up to the DAVE

Alas, all of my headphones/CIEMs seem to hit their scaling limits when I go to BluDAVE and BluHugo2. Once I'm done with my current round of tweaking of speaker cables and power to BluDAVE, I hope to get a lot more serious about tracking down some HEKv2's and Abyss Phi's and LCD4's to put them through the paces with BluDAVE.

BluDAVE is quite the merciless illuminator of truth. Shockingly easy to hear the impact of nearly any piece of kit (as I'm learning for the 692nd time going through various speaker cables)

That being said, my Katana's are wonderful with my Hugo2 when I'm on the road or at the office. On airplanes in particular, I love the 30dB+ isolation they provide.

 

[yellowblue]

The Audeze i4 scale fantastic with the DAVE. The only thing is that the midths are a bit too bright. Therefore I use them with the Audeze DSP plugin in Roon. Not as accurate as my Utopia, but more fun.

 

[Tomas h]

Finally I could afford a DAVE. My ears are happy, but a bit confused as I never heard anything like it.
Listening using my hifiman he1000 is pure joy.

Listening using my final sound electrostatic speakers is really good to.
But I am not sure how to drive them.
Right now I’m trying out a chord mezzo 75 that seems to drives them well.
Any suggestions here what to try out?

 

[GryphonGuy]

Thanks lol. I am definitely looking into buying DAVE. The only problem is that it is really expensive new, so I'll probably get their demo model when I have the appropriate funds someday.

Save hard. Your sacrifices will be rewarded by the sound that DAVE produces!

Regards
GG

 

[tunes]

What is the length limit on the KabelDirekt Toslink for it to work. Would a 20 foot length cause any distortion or dropouts?? Can get one for $12 on eBay.

 

[miketlse]

What is the length limit on the KabelDirekt Toslink for it to work. Would a 20 foot length cause any distortion or dropouts?? Can get one for $12 on eBay.

I use a 10m cable from my TV or bluray player, to my Mojo or Hugo2 without any problems.
Unfortunately I have no experience using it with a DAVE.

 

[tunes]

My other questions (probably answered already, sorry)

1. making sure crossfeed is turned off on DAVE when switching from headphones to speakers. How can I be sure it is off when listening to speakers. If my speakers are always connected to the RCA out jacks on the DAVE can I just plug in my headphones and then turn off cross feed and unplug the headphones? If so what is the big deal?

2. What is phase (+) vs (-) and when is one or the other better?

3. Why is there a -dB indicator for volume. Is there a set starting volume that then adjusts from that mid volume level? Confusing why it just doesn’t start at zero and go positive.

4. If switching between USB and Optical depending on source, is it ok to leave the Toslink cable connected all the time on the DAVE side and plug in the optical source when needed?

5. Can the RCA out for speakers, and XLR out for left and right subs remain plugged in to the DAVE all the time and when head phones are used are both sets of rear outputs automatically switched off? The reason I ask is that on the HUGO2, the RCA out and headphone out are active all the time simultaneously so when listening to headphones on the HUGO2, the speakers have to be disconnected.

Thanks

 

[penguin69]

My other questions (probably answered already, sorry)

3. Why is there a -dB indicator for volume. Is there a set starting volume that then adjusts from that mid volume level? Confusing why it just doesn’t start at zero and go positive.

0* db is the equivalent to your line out. The negative scale represents the logarithmic difference to your digital volume output selection and the fixed line out.


* actually your 'max volume' on the Dave's digital volume control is -3 db

 

[penguin69]

4. If switching between USB and Optical depending on source, is it ok to leave the Toslink cable connected all the time on the DAVE side and plug in the optical source when needed?

I can't think of any way in which this would cause a problem.