CHEAP MODS/TWEAKS...
Mar 25, 2002 at 10:59 PM Post #3 of 29

DarkAngel

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All Max/MOH or any similar sized headphone amp, go to local home improvement store and get some some 3/8 cap nuts. The top looks like a round dome, place these under amp with the round top against amp bottom. You will be suprised at the increased detail without sounding bright, total cost will be $1-2.

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Cap+Nuts.jpg


I usually use these under smaller components that I can't easily use bearing isolation devices, trust me this works.

>>>>>
Wouldn't the amp slide off the caps if the rack/table/etc were to shake a little bit?
<<<<<<

You have to use your own judgement, as individual set-ups/conditions may vary. Use 3 capnuts and place them 1/2" in from the sides, nudge your unit to see how easily it slides and then make your own judgement. If it slides too easily you may not want to use, depends on weight of unit and surface texture of amp bottom.

You could buy three cheap small cones, and point them up but even cheap cones cost @$10 each, and will sound a little different
than round cap nut.
 
Mar 26, 2002 at 12:35 AM Post #4 of 29

Gord SW Ont

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============================================
quote ... DarkAngel:

All Max/MOH or any similar sized headphone amp, go to local home improvement store and get some some 3/8 cap nuts. The top looks like a round dome, place these under amp with the round top against amp bottom. You will be suprised at the increased detail without sounding bright, total cost will be $1-2.
============================================

I know you can get these in chrome and nylon ... which ones are you recommending?

Thx for suggetion ... Gord.
 
Mar 26, 2002 at 5:33 AM Post #6 of 29

frankclone

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How about power conditioners/ cords ---such as green dot
hospital grade. Where available?? I will stop skulking around
Intensive Care Units
rolleyes.gif


cajunchrist suggested forming "Team Cheap Mod"
...now we need a manifesto...hmmm....
"Headfiers of the world unite! You have nothing to lose
but your speaker cables!..." ??
 
Mar 26, 2002 at 5:51 AM Post #7 of 29

carlo

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some cheap tweaks that worked for me:

dynamat (around $25) - use to dampen the chassis of components. better bass, definition... over damping can cause the player to sound dead.

hospital grade outlets (eagle, home depot <$10) - increases contact to power cords, huge improvement in my setup.

rf chokes (radioshack, around $2) - has helped reduce siblance when placed on power cords of some components (in my case an old adcom gcd700).

cement slabs (any home improvement store <$1) - fantastic amp stands. i've sprayed mine with dynashield spray (about $20/bottle). i like to use marble (<$15) for speaker stands.

IKEA LACK tables (approx $15ea) - i've been using these as equipment stands for some time. place a layer of dynamat underneath the table to help with vibration. cones help as well.

vibrapods ($25) - don't like them under anything but my preamp, but it does wonders there.

various isolation tweaks (bike tubes, stress balls, arrowhead points) - cheap alternatives to their "audiophile" name brand counter parts.

lead weights (a few cents/lb) - i prefer weighlifting weights over a mouse pad to sand bags, but that's just me. looks nicer as well.

speaker positioning (time is valuable) - read the guides on aa's faq and experiment. should always be the first tweak.

plants ($10-15) - i use them in the corners of my listening room... not as good as dedicated treatments but they do help and brighten up the room.

black opaque marker (any art supply house <$5) - treating the edges of cds is audible in my system, and i used them for years before i discovered auric illuminator.

DIY power cord (any home improvement store <$30) - i used doc b's receipe, works great for sources.

i'm drawing a blank, but i know i've got more.

hope this helps,
carlo.
 
Mar 27, 2002 at 5:33 AM Post #9 of 29

punosion

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Quote:

Originally posted by carlo
vibrapods ($25) - don't like them under anything but my preamp, but it does wonders there.

various isolation tweaks (bike tubes, stress balls, arrowhead points) - cheap alternatives to their "audiophile" name brand counter parts.


Now, I just don't understand how these tweaks are supposed to work. Please enlighten me. Some don't believe in break-in, but how are you gonna' convince me of these tweaks?
 
Mar 27, 2002 at 5:57 PM Post #10 of 29

carlo

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punosion,

i'm not trying to convince you they work, but i'm certainly encouraging you to try.

as far as a technical explanation, it's pretty simple really. the idea is transform vibration into heat. in the case of my preamp (tubed) and turntable, the benefits of isolation from vibration should be pretty obvious.

i tried to list stuff pretty much anyone could afford. why not try it and see?

best,
carlo
 
Mar 27, 2002 at 6:23 PM Post #11 of 29

Audio-Me

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I use an old iron, and I notice that the power cord is quite beefy yet flexible (covered in cloth braided sheath). I'm guessing these have a thick solid wire. How would these be for speaker cable?
 
Mar 28, 2002 at 4:03 AM Post #12 of 29

kwkarth

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Quote:

Originally posted by DarkAngel
All Max/MOH or any similar sized headphone amp, go to local home improvement store and get some some 3/8 cap nuts. The top looks like a round dome, place these under amp with the round top against amp bottom. You will be suprised at the increased detail without sounding bright, total cost will be $1-2.

I usually use these under smaller components that I can't easily use bearing isolation devices, trust me this works.


With all my ignorance hanging out, if I may ask, from what are you isolating?
Thanks DA!
 
Mar 28, 2002 at 4:27 AM Post #13 of 29

DarkAngel

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Vibration from whatever you have your Max sitting on, there are vibrations everywhere in your room that smear and distort your sound, if you use three 3/8 cap nuts there are only 3 tiny points of contact between Max and shelf vs the generic rubber feet on Max. You will hear a difference, give it a try, round top on amp bottom.
 
Mar 28, 2002 at 5:38 AM Post #15 of 29

punosion

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...ok, I understand isolating a turntable and maybe a CD player, but why a freaking pre-amps and amps and the like? How is the signal going to be affected by reduced vibration? HOW?
 

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