[ColSaulTigh]

You need C3m or C3g.

They're on my radar. Currently, I've been on a Stax/estat kick. I'll get back to collecting tubes for the Woo again soon.

 

[paradoxper]

Yep, exactly my situation.
At some point I was considering writing about 300B vs 45 vs 805A sound comparison (i have 3 different amps with those power tubes). Then realized it would not bring much value but may ignite wars

Get the Perryman 45 to start. But I'd enjoy reading your thoughts.

 

[krude]

Yep, exactly my situation.
At some point I was considering writing about 300B vs 45 vs 805A sound comparison (i have 3 different amps with those power tubes). Then realized it would not bring much value but may ignite wars

I second that, general "what to expext from different power tube families" from your perspective would be really nice.

I can conclude that "in general" from my experience 300b tends to be more midcentric and heavy / dense sounding while 2a3 is more of a natural generalist with a nack for sounding natural and very good dynamics.

Obv Elrog is not your typical 300b and it sounds more like a 2a3 to me, but without the out of the box natural aspect which has to be injected via drivers. So you can configure a 300b amp with very speciffic tubes to sound very much like a 2a3 would in general ... and vice versa, make a 2a3 amp sound very mid centric and magical for vocals, again with very specific tube choices.

And KT88 just sounds good to me without having any "super powers". Just a solid performer.

 

[jonchard]

I would agree. There are many variables like the output transformers and all the different caps used.

Regarding soldier, even if the solder looks good, that doesn't mean anything. It is old and some of the solder is so hard, that it doesn't even completely melt at high temps, that turns most any solder to a nice flowing mercury like state, which is normal. Some of the sold stays a slurry of soft but not liquid like metal. This can change the conduction properties and there with a sensitive signal, like on the grid, it can mess up the frequencies. Some solder is so hard I have to scrape off the upper surface with a knife to get it to the point that I can remove it as only then will it soften enough.

When it is THAT much of a mess, how do you get it out of the pins? Im assuming a lot of heat has to go into each pin, at that point, can it wreck the bases at all? Are they ceramic or plastic? Are you using a large fat tip on your solder stations or another method? A solder sucker or wick? Any info is always appreciated.

 

[jonchard]

". . .synergy and preference is the name of the game at this level of gear."

@krude I concur.

And here is the pinch. The CV6 with Elrog MO's on my susvara are everything i want. Im sure they wont quite match your ZMF nor the other guys HD800's! Its hard to allay what we each hear in our own situations with our own gear. Theres no mushiness or veiling with CV6 but also mine were top of the pile in transconductance (And they vary a lot - its why id like to get a similarly rated pair of GEC's). They were newer than new

 

[jamato8]

When it is THAT much of a mess, how do you get it out of the pins? Im assuming a lot of heat has to go into each pin, at that point, can it wreck the bases at all? Are they ceramic or plastic? Are you using a large fat tip on your solder stations or another method? A solder sucker or wick? Any info is always appreciated.

The caps are the real issue, more than the pins. The bases are fine, heat is not an issue.

 

[jonchard]

The caps are the real issue, more than the pins. The bases are fine, heat is not an issue.

Oh right! I tried to read up on that but i couldnt find much about it.

 

[jamato8]

I love the combination of the MDR R-10 and the 300B II. Especially on well recorded spacious recordings.

 

[steve468]

No I haven't mess with that, and don't really want to. My tubes actually look NOS and the solder doesn't look terrible at all, but I am sure it could be better being as old as it is. Don't get me wrong, they do sound extremely detailed, just not in the right spots for my preferences like the GEC Welded Plates. The Russians are more of a V shape sound compared to the GEC, of which puts certain things further back in mix than I prefer I my system and as such things can sound a bit too distant and less noticeable in the mids. Of note, I am not using the same GEC VR135 or rectifiers that everyone else is.

If it's not too much trouble, would you be kind enough to post a photo of your welded plate GEC VR135? I'd love to be able to identify them on ebay. Unfortunately my quad of CV6 have gotten terribly noisy, so I'm looking to try the ebay tube roulette once more...

 

[Wes S]

If it's not too much trouble, would you be kind enough to post a photo of your welded plate GEC VR135? I'd love to be able to identify them on ebay. Unfortunately my quad of CV6 have gotten terribly noisy, so I'm looking to try the ebay tube roulette once more...

I have been looking for a backup pair for months with no luck. I think it's going to be really hard to find the Welded Plates unfortunately.

 

[steve468]

I have been looking for a backup pair for months with no luck. I think it's going to be really hard to find the Welded Plates unfortunately.

All right, keep your secrets then…

But seriously, good luck then. Seems to be the case for so many tubes.

 

[dynamic headphones]

I have been looking for a backup pair for months with no luck. I think it's going to be really hard to find the Welded Plates unfortunately.

wes, would u possibly have a recommendation for a fairly neutral driver? leaning warm but not exactly necessary

 

[Wes S]

wes, would u possibly have a recommendation for a fairly neutral driver? leaning warm but not exactly necessary

If you want to stick with 6SN7, the Westinghouse 6SN7GTB is a good one that many overlook. Here is a nice looking pair.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/2854074688...VfNWCSSTQa&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

Sylvania is another neutral sounding tube. https://www.ebay.com/itm/2853567563...VfNWCSSTQa&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

The Tung Sol BGRP is also a neutral sounding tube, and is probably the best of the bunch and priced accordingly. https://www.ebay.com/itm/2853567563...VfNWCSSTQa&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

If you don't mind adapters, the GEC CV6 are well balanced with a hint of warmth. https://www.ebay.com/itm/3947033000...VfNWCSSTQa&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

 

[jamato8]

If you want to stick with 6SN7, the Westinghouse 6SN7GTB is a good one that many overlook. Here is a nice looking pair.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/2854074688...VfNWCSSTQa&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

Sylvania is another neutral sounding tube. https://www.ebay.com/itm/2853567563...VfNWCSSTQa&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

The Tung Sol BGRP is also a neutral sounding tube, and is probably the best of the bunch and priced accordingly. https://www.ebay.com/itm/2853567563...VfNWCSSTQa&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

If you don't mind adapters, the GEC CV6 are well balanced with a hint of warmth. https://www.ebay.com/itm/3947033000...VfNWCSSTQa&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

 

[jamato8]

The Westinghouse look like some nice black plate tubes and they have the copper grid posts, which is a good feature. Sylvania is nice, not exciting but a good performer. I have them in NOS in the clear (bad boy -stupid name) and 1952 in the not clear mica. The Tung-Sol I have in NOS and the pair I occasionally use are lightly used and sound great but I still prefer the 7193 type of tubes for the 6SN7 spot. The Westinghouse look nice. Good find Wes.