[Ace o' Spades]

I'm gonna recase my PIMETA to get it out of that hideous Serpac. I am thinking about getting a Hammond. Along with the recase I am adding a linkwitz crossfeed, TREAD, an input selector, and a full size plug.

What size do people usually use for this kind of setup? A cigar box or a bamboo box are my second options in case the Hammond is too expensive.

 

[pddjsteve]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ace o' Spades /img/forum/go_quote.gif I'm gonna recase my PIMETA to get it out of that hideous Serpac. I am thinking about getting a Hammond. Along with the recase I am adding a linkwitz crossfeed, TREAD, an input selector, and a full size plug. What size do people usually use for this kind of setup? A cigar box or a bamboo box are my second options in case the Hammond is too expensive.

If you go hammond, the 1455N1201 would probably work best for you - it is the same depth as the J1201 (I have my pimeta in one, its the one tomb used in the trickle charger thread), which is a good fit for pimeta+tread, and it gives enough extra width (103mm vs 78mm) to fit a 1/4" jack in. Its also taller, so it should accomodate the crossfeed nicely.

 

[Ace o' Spades]

Thanks, thats exactly what I was looking for. I have a drill press, do I need a special bit for the aluminum?

 

[pddjsteve]

I've used regular dremel bits, but I just tried out some nice titanium-something or other bits last weekend and they seemed to work pretty well

I'm not sure how bits made for drilling wood will hold up with the aluminum, but it is fairly thin.

 

[amb]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ace o' Spades /img/forum/go_quote.gif Thanks, thats exactly what I was looking for. I have a drill press, do I need a special bit for the aluminum?

"General purpose" bits are good enough for aluminum but a stepped bit (unibit) is preferable for doing large holes. Use a center punch to mark and dimple the center of the hole location first before drilling. I usually drill a small starter hole (like 1/16") before going progressively bigger when using standard bits. The starter hole is still a good idea for a stepped bit.

A special bit profile is recommended for plastics to drill a clean, crack-free hole.

 

[fordgtlover]

amb's answer x2

 

[mminutel]

I am sure you knew this already but if you go with that case then all of your connectors need to be of the isolated type or they will be grounded to the case. Most people, especially if you are going to be putting a tread and switchable jacks would prefer to go with a different case. Is this strictly for home use or are you wanting it portable? You can either go with a tall case and put the crossfeed on top or you can go with something longer and just lay the crossfeed beside of it like you would the tread.

 

[tomb]

Quote:

Originally Posted by mminutel /img/forum/go_quote.gif I am sure you knew this already but if you go with that case then all of your connectors need to be of the isolated type or they will be grounded to the case. Most people, especially if you are going to be putting a tread and switchable jacks would prefer to go with a different case. Is this strictly for home use or are you wanting it portable? You can either go with a tall case and put the crossfeed on top or you can go with something longer and just lay the crossfeed beside of it like you would the tread.

Nope. All you need do is make sure that the power input is isolated from the rest of the connectors. This means that your connectors must be isolated or more simply - the power connector - but both are not necessary. Metal portables are easily constructed by simply using a plastic DC socket. The input/output connectors can then be grounded to the case - even on amps with a virtual ground like the PIMETA.

 

[mminutel]

Oh. I am sorry. I must have misunderstood somewhere

. Thanks for clearing that up before I spread it anymore.

 

[mono]

Quote:

Originally Posted by tomb /img/forum/go_quote.gif Nope. All you need do is make sure that the power input is isolated from the rest of the connectors. This means that your connectors must be isolated or more simply - the power connector - but both are not necessary. Metal portables are easily constructed by simply using a plastic DC socket. The input/output connectors can then be grounded to the case - even on amps with a virtual ground like the PIMETA.

The input and output should not both be connected to the metal case when the amp uses a ground channel (as Pimeta /et al do). In that situation only one of the three (power, signal [including virtual] ground, or output ground) should be case grounded.

 

[tomb]

Quote:

Originally Posted by mono /img/forum/go_quote.gif The input and output should not both be connected to the metal case when the amp uses a ground channel (as Pimeta /et al do). In that situation only one of the three (power, signal [including virtual] ground, or output ground) should be case grounded.

Yes, you are correct, but it's the differential output ground technology - not the virtual ground channel itself. Virtual grounds such as those in the CMoy are OK to tie together with signal input ground.

I had forgotten this distinction, so thank you for the correction.

 

[Ace o' Spades]

Does Digikey sell the battery drawers that some people use? I really like those, I was wondering if anyone happened to have the part number.

 

[MisterX]

That what you mean by "battery drawers"?

 

[TzeYang]

btw how do you guys create such hole that's big enough for the power input socket? (misterX"s picture).

Is it neccessary to buy a dremel for the job?

 

[mminutel]

For the power input you would not need a dremel, just a simple drill. A drill press would be better but you can make descent holes with a regular drill. If you are wanting to make a hole big enough for something like the battery drawer or simple rocker switches then a dremel might be good but a set of files would do the job, it would just take a while.