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Originally Posted by DolbyR /img/forum/go_quote.gif
how does the FC series compare with the FM? As the 100V caps i'll have to take from the FC series, would there be advantage (in the means of quality) to take all thre caps from this series, atleast in Farnell, the price is higher that the FM series, but in terms of characteristics, is there a difference. Sorry, I just dont understand all these parameters in order to compare them by myself.
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The FM's have better specs than almost all readily-available electrolytics. Simply, they are a sterling power cap. As you note, however, they are not available in as many sizes as other types. There is nothing wrong with mixing in the FC's in this case. The 100V caps apply to a specific part of the SOHA circuit - the B+ voltage on the tube. C3, C4, C5, and C6 are these caps. FC's or Nichicon UPW's are great choices. I prefer FC's, but that's probably just from some favorable hype from the speaker/guitar guys over on DIYaudio. Plus, I delude myself into thinking some of the FM magic came from the FC's.
The other caps of note are the ones behind the twin voltage regulators of the opamp rails - C9 and C10. Those may benefit from upsizing to 1000uf or more. C7 and C8 are the fast caps on the front side of the regulator and need to respond quickly to the music signal. FM's are a great choice for all four positions. but UPW's, UHE's or FC's would be fine, too.
C12 is the cap reserve for the heater regulation. It's not critical IMHO and may be any old 470uf-35V cap. C11 is the same - not that critical (comparatively speaking), since it only supplies the heater.
C1 and C13 are the cathode bypass caps for the tube. These need to be 1000uf for the best bass. It's possible that 470uf's will have as much bass, but it hasn't been tested and documented by anyone AFAIK. If you run the corner frequency equation, it will probably tell you that 220uf's are sufficient, but we're finding from the experience with the MAX and from Runeight's years of first-hand experience that maybe this isn't so. As Runeight has said, the 1000uf is not much more expensive and it will remove all doubt.
Traditionally, this has been a boutique signal cap position, but I'm not so sure anymore that's necessary. Nichicon Muse ES, KZ, FG, or Elna Silmic RFS, Cerafine are traditional choices. IMHO, Black Gates are not justified and would be extremely expensive. As mentioned earlier, that's because only the strongest amplitude signals hit this cap, I think - when an expansion of the wave is necessary (room to grow). Not very scientific, but as mentioned, the rote equation doesn't seem to work anyway.
C2 and C14 are the film coupling caps that connect the tube stage to the opamp output stage. They are definitely full-fledged signal caps - every bit of the signal passes through them at all times. The possibilities are almost endless. You might refer to Dsavitsk's excellent reviews at:
Notes on Output Coupling Capacitors for ideas on your selection.