i think the L100 has the paper tweeter while the L96 has the 044 (alu-phenolic resin tweeters). while i have zero experience personally, dudes at AK compares the L96 more to L112 or 4410 (O44Ti tweets). L96 has 10" woofers while the L112 has the 12". L112 has bigger bass while L96 is tighter seems to be the prevalent opinion.
regardless i got this for a taste of the JBL sound but primarily as a project to hone my skills at refoaming, recapping & refinishing cabs before i work on the Yam NS1k. im sure i can get all the money back if i didnt like the L96.
Back in 1977 when i got the L100 i chose them over a few other brands mainly because of the bass had a Quad 405 AT 100WPC to drive those man it was great theres always better but for punch and 100 db a 1 metre loved those speakers one tune i loved with those was SILENT FURY by GARY WRIGHT bass was great on that tune and its also pretty impressive with the Kef's 104.
im pretty sure the L96s will sound nice after a refoam & xover recap. but i gotta say my NS1000M are sounding pretty amazing right now & its really kinda hard to accept lesser SQ. its so clear, transparent & detailed that its like im listening to a giant set of HD800s.
color me crazy but here's an interesting development to the NS1000 - for whatever reason, the volume opened after a couple days of initial usage but i found the bass lacking in respect to the stunning mids/highs. then after 2+mths of ownership, the bass popped out of nowhere yesterday & im getting some big bottom end kick. the kick drums is blowing my mind on Hotel California (Hell Freezes Over). i do not recall hearing this amount of bass punch & depth before yesterday!
What...these are 30-40yrs old speakers! how can they still break in???
You only replace if the xovers have iron core coils. So if you have a 1mH iron core coil, you want a 1mH air core (will be much bigger and probably cost more). The iron core causes hysteresis which almost always changes the sound for the worse. If the coils are already air core you don't need to worry.
Been there, done that. PRECISELY because they are 30-40 years old. Electrolytic capacitors are the culprits. When I finally received my long time sought after Technics SB RX 50s, I almost broke into tears how crappy did they sound. Crappy as crappy, not crappy versus the fame behind the RX series...
It turned out speakers had to be played at least 10 hours before coming kind of together - and they kept on improving for about 3-4 days and lthen levelled off. Take them out of operation for a day or two or simply not play them for that time - procedure repeats itself ALL OVER AGAIN. Funny thing is that capacitor values were still pretty much spot on, no appreciable discrepancy from nominal value, tightly matched channel to channel.
Total recap with film capacitors; now you can have this pair - over my dead body only!
@analogsurviver, thxs for the explanation - i think the fog is clearing up (abit atleast) for me. based on my research, both the tweeters & woofers use electrolytics while the mids use "self healing' films. so based on what u just explained, the bass (woofers) opening up is the electrolytic caps "reconditioning" itself after some usage.
its easy to get good films for the 2.7uf tweeter caps, its not so simple to fit films with the 94uf (2x47uf OEM) due to size. also wouldnt changing electrolytic to films change the sound signature also?
@analogsurviver, thxs for the explanation - i think the fog is clearing up (abit atleast) for me. based on my research, both the tweeters & woofers use electrolytics while the mids use "self healing' films. so based on what u just explained, the bass (woofers) opening up is the electrolytic caps "reconditioning" itself after some usage.
its easy to get good films for the 2.7uf tweeter caps, its not so simple to fit films with the 94uf (2x47uf OEM) due to size. also wouldnt changing electrolytic to films change the sound signature also?
Larger values of film capacitors can be PITA - if one gets hold on them at all. Physical size, size of the hole they burn in the pocket - and one aspect most seem to be unaware of - the slew rate spec. If power amp driving these caps has say 120 W, that means approx + -70 V power supplies - and assuming amp to have 5 microsecond rise time, that means crossover can see 140/5 V per microsecond. Not all film capacitors can do that, the larger the value, the slower they are. There are fast high quality caps "available" - yet when one learns of the price, a compromise is usually in order. It is highly unlikely to see really good film caps in audio equipment - regardless of price.
Film vs electrolytics - yes, there is a change of the sound signature. For the MUCH BETTER.. Trouble is, you have to go trough the entire system - from the microphone to speakers/phones in order to really get all the benefits. $$$$$. Very $$$$$. Reason why it is (almost) never done commercially..
Just picked up three pairs of Sansui SP-XXXX series speakers. What can I say - I'm a sucker for the lattice grills. Anyways, they each need some TLC to get them fully functional, but I'll put up pics and impressions once I finish the repairs.
I have my original pair of Allison IVs from 1977, haven't listened to them in a while as the woofers ripped when I last moved, I need to find at least
one replacement and preferably two. I liked the idea of the matched speaker components but probably have to give that idea up.
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