Burn-in - Process and Benefit

Feb 4, 2016 at 3:03 PM Post #31 of 38
  Downside of the M40X is that for someone like me using it on a walkman, there is no short cable.
 
That being said, I don't want to save $100 getting the M40X's over the M50X then pay $100 for a new 3' cable. :D
 
Though I found the one on amazon.com, and some comments say they noticed slightly more bass... other than static, I didn't think cables made that much a difference.

 
Didn't you say you mainly listen to music in bed? If so, the cable length should be irrelevant.
 
The cables you linked to were under $20, not $100. lol
 
Feb 4, 2016 at 3:24 PM Post #32 of 38
Ya, until you try to take the headphones off and hang them up in the dark and realize you're covered in a mess of wire. :D For a while I'll just coil up the excess with a twist tie, but, would like to keep the long straight cable for some computer use, and just a short one for bed.
 
Cable wise, yes those are under $20, but your comment "Those cables are pretty affordable. That's all I have to say about that." kinda sounded like you were saying they're cheap, probably for a reason... which is why I said I didn't want to get top of the line ones for $100.
 
Feb 4, 2016 at 3:29 PM Post #33 of 38
  Ya, until you try to take the headphones off and hang them up in the dark and realize you're covered in a mess of wire. :D For a while I'll just coil up the excess with a twist tie, but, would like to keep the long straight cable for some computer use, and just a short one for bed.
 
Cable wise, yes those are under $20, but your comment "Those cables are pretty affordable. That's all I have to say about that." kinda sounded like you were saying they're cheap, probably for a reason... which is why I said I didn't want to get top of the line ones for $100.

 
Another thing you could do is connect the long cable from your computer to your bed.
tongue.gif

 
Oh. Nah. All I meant was that I'm not going to comment on whether they might sound different or whatever.
 
Also..."top-of-the-line" headphone cables cost over a thousand dollars.
ph34r.gif

 
Feb 4, 2016 at 3:34 PM Post #34 of 38
True... bit harder to skip songs though. :) Maybe a series of mirrors and a strong iR remote. :D
 
Being that I'm getting my first decent cans, I doubt I'd be able to hear a difference... for the price, and they look decent (like, not really thin and wimpy like dollarstore cables) I think I'd be fine.
 
I kinda hate myself for making the decision to upgrade... because now I'm looking at those FiiO X1 players and how hard would it be to switch over a chunk of my collection to FLAC (or for some stuff if FLAC exists).
 
These headphone upgrades may end up costing me a lot by the end of the year. :D
 
Also..."top-of-the-line" headphone cables cost over a thousand dollars

 
What!!! Shut yo' mouth!
 
Is there an audible difference? or is it a case of needing a computer and sophisticated tests to tell you there's a difference?
 
I remember reading an article, years ago, when the Monster Cables were getting a lot of popularity for AV equipment and some company ran a test and using a coat hanger could get the same results in quality/signal loss. 
 
Feb 4, 2016 at 3:54 PM Post #35 of 38
  ...
What!!! Shut yo' mouth!
 
Is there an audible difference? or is it a case of needing a computer and sophisticated tests to tell you there's a difference?
 
I remember reading an article, years ago, when the Monster Cables were getting a lot of popularity for AV equipment and some company ran a test and using a coat hanger could get the same results in quality/signal loss. 

No audible difference. At least not for dynamic headphones. I'm not sure yet about electrostatic headphones, but those usually don't have removable cables.
 
Even sophisticated equipment is sometimes unable to point out any obvious difference between differently priced cables.
 
Ah, the infamous coat hanger blind test. It was not a measured test or done by a company, but the blind test in which none of the test subjects could tell the difference was probably real.
 
As a matter of fact, even some manufacturers of cables think the difference is not in what you can hear, but more in the build quality and the customization of the cable: http://www.head-fi.org/t/783651/anyone-heard-of-hivemind-cables-before#post_12146462
 
[EDIT]
...
That being said, I'm also limited to 320kbps MP3s, since my older Walkman does not play FLAC. So I suppose that would factor in as well.

If the files have been converted properly (with LAME for example), 320kbps MP3 should not be audibly different from any lossless format. At least, there has not been anyone yet who could deliver convincing proof of blind tests that confirm an audible difference.
 
Feb 4, 2016 at 4:04 PM Post #36 of 38
  True... bit harder to skip songs though. :) Maybe a series of mirrors and a strong iR remote. :D
 
Being that I'm getting my first decent cans, I doubt I'd be able to hear a difference... for the price, and they look decent (like, not really thin and wimpy like dollarstore cables) I think I'd be fine.
 
I kinda hate myself for making the decision to upgrade... because now I'm looking at those FiiO X1 players and how hard would it be to switch over a chunk of my collection to FLAC (or for some stuff if FLAC exists).
 
These headphone upgrades may end up costing me a lot by the end of the year. :D
 
What!!! Shut yo' mouth!
 
Is there an audible difference? or is it a case of needing a computer and sophisticated tests to tell you there's a difference?
 
I remember reading an article, years ago, when the Monster Cables were getting a lot of popularity for AV equipment and some company ran a test and using a coat hanger could get the same results in quality/signal loss. 

 
It's more likely that they would sound the same anyway.
 
What is the source of your audio files? CDs? Downloads?
 
If you don't need a portable system and only listen to music in a room like I do, I think your best bet is to focus on desktop systems, because they give you the best bang for your buck in my opinion.
 
You can rip CDs to lossless (FLAC, ALAC, AIFF, or WAV) or any other format with programs like dBpoweramp and Exact Audio Copy. External hard drives are affordable nowadays in case you need more space. (Though my 12 TB hard drive array was very expensive.) On a PC, you can play back the audio files with a program like foobar2000, which supports many plugins, including equalizers.
 
Most people use a GUI (graphical user interface) for browsing and playing their music collection (and foobar2000 has custom skins available to make it look however you want), but what I do is browse manually-organized folders and drag and drop on-the-fly playlists into foobar2000. That way, I don't need to worry about skipping tracks I don't like; I select only the tracks I want to play, and the order they are played in.
 
After your "digital ecosystem" is set up, you can then potentially get into desktop amps and DACs. (Assuming you don't need a portable system in the future.) That's a topic for another thread, but let's just say that you probably don't need to worry about it until you get headphones that are harder to drive.
 
Here are a few tips from someone who has owned dozens of headphones. If you want to try different headphones, the easiest way is to get rid of stuff you already have. So in addition to selling off non-audio equipment, you can return, sell, or trade your headphones (such as in the for sale/trade forums here) and related equipment in order to try other things. Be proactive about searching for what you want. Some of the best deals are done by getting in touch with owners and setting up something private that isn't even listed publicly.
 
But instead of going crazy like I have, it may be better to simply enjoy what you have, especially with a parametric equalizer to tweak the sound to your taste. (If you ever want to learn more advanced EQ, check out the guides in my signature.)
 
Yup. Here's an example.
 
Some people (usually those who have never used them) say that there is no audible difference with higher-end cables...and on the other hand, many owners swear that they sound much better. Either way, it only makes sense to buy such things when you already own four-figure headphones, amps, DACs, etc. In addition to headphone cables, there are also interconnects (XLR or RCA cables to connect DACs to amps and so on), power cables, USB cables...the list goes on. Don't even worry about all that unless you plan on spending many thousands on more important gear in the future. And be sure that you're able to return the cables in case you don't hear a difference.
 
Feb 4, 2016 at 5:49 PM Post #37 of 38
Don't worry about the cables. The coiled one that comes with the 40x will probably be just fine for your purposes and not seem too long, even if you did want to take them out and about or something as well. Really starting to get the impression things are being way over thought here. I'm not trying to insult. I'm saying just chill and don't let the craziness of this forum and reviews and info. in general get the best of you. Especially info. that isn't pertinent to your current wants and needs whatsoever. If you decided on the 40x, cool! Be patient, see if you like them as is, if not, take it from there and we can try and help you further.
 
The 40x should suit your needs.
 
Feb 4, 2016 at 5:54 PM Post #38 of 38
Headphones are a tricky one for me... not local to anything where I can test them, and once I pick something I think will be good based on reviews, someones pops up and says they suck. :D
 
Just trying to avoid my last purchase. I bought the Monster DNA in-ear headphones and was told if for any reason I don't like them I can return. So, they will NOT stay in at all, so asked for a return, and they said no because the box was opened. Apparently for headphones, you can return them if not happy for any reason.... so long as you don't open the box. BestBuy.ca... :S
 
Also because haven't been able to sell them yet, ate into the budget.
 

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