bulgin switch wiring--help please
May 20, 2009 at 9:51 PM Post #16 of 34
Quote:

Originally Posted by zkool448 /img/forum/go_quote.gif
I've not used this Bulgin switch before but just by looking at the contact layout NO/NC refers to the switch position. Normally Open (NO) means there's no connection and Normally Closed (NC) means a short happens if you push the switch.


I believe that the NO contacts are open until the switch is activated, and just the opposite for the NC contacts.

So you'd want to use the NO1 and C1 for your power switch.

Or have I lost it entirely?

A meter or rudimentary continuity checker would be a great help to you, and by extension, to we who are trying to help.

Edit: Beaten by digger.
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May 20, 2009 at 9:58 PM Post #17 of 34
Yes that correct
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Sorry, now I've done it and added additional confusion for the OP
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OP, pick up a multimeter (you'll need one) and experiment which state/position you get continuity or when you don't
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May 20, 2009 at 11:32 PM Post #18 of 34
Quote:

NC - normally closed
NO - normally open
C - common, or ground


Common is not ground.
The common pin is the pin that is connected in either switch state.
NO = is not connected to the common pin when the switch is in the default state.
NC = is connected to the common pin when the switch is in the default state.

The LED + and - terminals are self explanatory.

To wire it as a switch for the Mullet SS you connect the + supply to the "NC1" pin and connect the "C1" pin to the amps V+ input.
(the "NO1" terminal will not have "live voltage" when you wire the terminals "back-wards")
You can also connect the power supplies ground to the "NC2" pin and connect the "C2" to the amps V- input but it's better not to.
 
May 21, 2009 at 12:45 AM Post #19 of 34
well, i see that you think it is self explanatory, but im a bit confused. The LED is built into the switch, so what do i connect to the + and -? should i just ground the - and tap current into the plus from the power supply?
 
May 21, 2009 at 1:01 AM Post #20 of 34
Before hooking up the LED terminals, I think it might be a good idea first to determine what the switch's built-in LED rating is (the Millett SS power supply output is +48VDC).
 
May 21, 2009 at 1:04 AM Post #21 of 34
The data sheet should give the appropriate voltage to feed it. You may (or may not) need a resistor in series.

Seriously, get yourself a basic DMM. You should be able to get one at Rat Shack, or online for $30 or so. It will be enough to go along with. You'll probably want a better one eventually, but then maybe not. Basic functions will generally take care of most needs. You can probably even get one at an auto supply store or the hardware store.
 
May 21, 2009 at 1:08 AM Post #22 of 34
but is that correct? I'd ground the negative terminal of the LED, and connect the positive (possibly with a resistor) to the power supply?
 
May 21, 2009 at 1:11 AM Post #23 of 34
Theoretically you can, but I would look at the schematic and tap the +48V anywhere after the switch or the LED might remain ON (depending on the switch wiring) full time.
 
May 21, 2009 at 1:12 AM Post #24 of 34
haha right. thanks very much for the help everyone
 
May 21, 2009 at 1:59 AM Post #25 of 34
The typical LED spec have a forward current rating around (or close to) 20mA. I'm highly guessing your Bulgin switch LED is probably around that, again it's a good idea to go over its specs.

In my Millett SS, I used an RLED value of 2.4K 2W in series.

ssmillettrled.jpg
 
May 21, 2009 at 2:06 AM Post #26 of 34
the data sheet from mouser says it's rated for 12 volts.


so I assume, from the little electronics i know, that 48V -(I)(R) must equal 12. so I*R=36, since I is .38amps from the power supply, that R should equal 96ish?

Is that right? or should I equal something else?
 
May 21, 2009 at 2:17 AM Post #27 of 34
The LED in that particular switch has an internal series resistor, so as long as you give it 12V DC, no additional resistor is necessary. If you have 48V, then you need to drop it to 12V, but the best way in this case is not with resistors, but to put two 18V 1W zener diodes in series to "eat up" the extra 36V.
 
May 21, 2009 at 2:19 AM Post #28 of 34
Ok, but the psu gives it 48VDC, so how do i get that down to 12VDC without an additional resistor 96ohm resistor in series?
 
May 21, 2009 at 2:23 AM Post #30 of 34
Hmm, ok, can you give me a link to mouser for these i guess? And is there anyplace anyone knows of online to get RCA-female, chassis mount, jacks that are sold with free shipping?
 

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