[dsmc13]

Sorry to bump this old thread. But I just got my Bravo V3 Amp. Running it to my Fiio D3 D/A converter using the RCA jacks and I have an optical toslink cable running from my Fiio to my Macbook using the Turtle Beach USB Analog & Digital Audio Adapter. Currently I am using Beyerdynamic DT770 Pro 250 Ohm and the Grado SR80i. I have been having some problems with background noises. First is a quiet hum or static, that isn't that big of a deal, but my biggest concern is a weird noise almost sounds like the old dial up noise but if it was stuck, not exactly the same sound but it sounds like stuttering synth sounds. I can't really describe it better then that. I have noticed that even after I unplug the usb from my Macbook the noise is still there. Any suggestions as to how to get rid of this noise. It kinda gets in the way of quieter songs and when I am watching TV shows and movies. If this has been discussed already I am sorry but I kinda couldn't find anything using this forum's search. Thanks in advance guys and gals.

 

[HOWIE13]

Probably external interference, particularly if the music sounds alright and is just being masked by this noise. Check mobiles, microwaves, all that sort of stuff. 

 

[money4me247]

  Sorry to bump this old thread. But I just got my Bravo V3 Amp. Running it to my Fiio D3 D/A converter using the RCA jacks and I have an optical toslink cable running from my Fiio to my Macbook using the Turtle Beach USB Analog & Digital Audio Adapter. Currently I am using Beyerdynamic DT770 Pro 250 Ohm and the Grado SR80i. I have been having some problems with background noises. First is a quiet hum or static, that isn't that big of a deal, but my biggest concern is a weird noise almost sounds like the old dial up noise but if it was stuck, not exactly the same sound but it sounds like stuttering synth sounds. I can't really describe it better then that. I have noticed that even after I unplug the usb from my Macbook the noise is still there. Any suggestions as to how to get rid of this noise. It kinda gets in the way of quieter songs and when I am watching TV shows and movies. If this has been discussed already I am sorry but I kinda couldn't find anything using this forum's search. Thanks in advance guys and gals.

 
Trouble shoot by isolating and testing all the components of your chain individually. If it is definitely from the Bravo V3 amp, it is probably from electromagnetic interference. Make sure you phone data connection is turned off or farther than ~3 ft from the bravo amp. Anything else with a 3g/4g connection can use this. Wifi should not cause any problems.

 

[dsmc13]

Thanks. That's what I was thinking. As far as this static, I have noticed that after I have the bravo on for a while the static is constant and sometimes another noise kinda on the same volume level as the static appears and disappears randomly. Is that like other wave interference as well? Also what can I do for the kinda quiet static in the background, it kinda irks me a little. Will will a change in the electro harmonix 6922 tube do me good? I would like to add that I noticed if I move my Macbook away from the bravo the static gets quieter. Pretty sure I am just gonna get a separate, lower table to put right next to my desk for my audio stuff.

 

[HOWIE13]

In my limited experience tubes vary a lot in their  inherent noise and vulnerability to outside interference. One problem I have encountered is if the tube pins don't fit tightly into the socket, intermittent noise can be created. It's always worth while giving the pins a good clean. Another problem is poor bias and it may be that slightly altering the bias screw setting may help. Finally, trying another tube could well be helpful- though it may make things worse-it's hit and miss. That's the fun (and sometimes the frustration) of tubes, but it's worth it in the end, and very satisfying when you finally sort it out.

 

[Didhefocus]

Hi all,
I've had my V3 for almost a year now. I've rolled a few tubes including a Mullard, got some new headphones and I have some new observations. My few available cans had somewhat flat response and didn't sound that good with reduced mid-bass and midrange (flattest setting). That's why I installed the EQ bypass mod. I recently purchased a pair of Blackbox M10 with active noise reduction. In passive mode these are slightly muddy sounding due to the over the top mid bass. The V3 in stock mode and flat setting paired with the M10s sounded like they were made for each other! Clarity, deep bass, smooth midrange all came together nicely. At $20 on clearance, I actually bought 3 pairs, 1 for my wife, 1 for me and 1 backup pair. So my guess is that people who liked this amp as-is must have very bass heavy headphones and the stock V3 tames them flattening the response. 

 

[Applicator5760]

Hi guys,
I got my V3 a week ago and I've been having some problems with static. I'm pretty new to audiophile so bare with me 

.  I'm pretty confident that the noise is being caused by interference from the LED, is that possible? As I watch the amp, the blue LED flickers and with each flicker I get a burst of static consistent with the light.  As I power the amp down the LED "jerks" its way off and I hear static with each pulse. Is there a way I could maybe shield the LED, short it, or replace it? Cosmetics isn't a huge deal for me so I would be fine just shorting it. Thanks!

 

[Didhefocus]

The LEDs are not for looks alone they are part of a constant voltage circuit. You have a bad solder joint or something else causing the voltage to drop intermittently and flicker the LEDs.

 

[Applicator5760]

Is there a fix? I have a soldering iron.

 

[Didhefocus]

If it's a bad solder joint you find it and resolder it. If it's something else you'd have to figure out what it is and fix it accordingly. First thing I would take off the top cover and touch things with a non-conductive probe while listening and watching the LEDs. If something's got a bad solder joint it will make the static and blink the LEDs when touched.

 

[Michael V]

Just got my Bravo v3 today. Using it with a sennheiser hd 598 and an asus xonar dg soundcard. I'm getting a sennheiser hd 650 and asus xonar stx in the mail this week and I can't wait!!! I have one question though, how do I know which tubes I can use with this amp? I want to get a really good tube for it so im just wondering. Thanks!

 

[Didhefocus]

These amps don't sound that great without mods. I would recommend replacing the output transistors first. Change the IRF630s to IRL510 and you will almost eliminate the annoying crosstalk distortion. The tube that came with it isn't bad. There are a number of websites with mods to improve the sound, remember...the V1 is the same except for the EQ. If you read this thread from the beginning you'll also find some tube tips and links. Good luck.

 

[Michael V]

  These amps don't sound that great without mods. I would recommend replacing the output transistors first. Change the IRF630s to IRL510 and you will almost eliminate the annoying crosstalk distortion. The tube that came with it isn't bad. There are a number of websites with mods to improve the sound, remember...the V1 is the same except for the EQ. If you read this thread from the beginning you'll also find some tube tips and links. Good luck.

I don't have any soldering experience, nor do I have the tools to do any of that stuff. All I want to do is change the tube with a better one, I'm willing to spend up to $70 on a really good tube. I just what to know how I find out which tubes are compatible with it, or are all of the tubes compatible? This is my first tube amp, so I don't know anything about tubes lol. Thanks.

 

[ctbarker32]

  The top position is no equaliser filter operative. I had to email to find out. No way you could know this intuitively.

I have to strongly disagree with this statement. The correct flat setting is at the middle position which have indents you can feel when moving the sliders. I have tested with several DACs and several headphones and it is clear to me that the sound is audibly flat with all sliders in the middle position. All EQ's since the dawn of HiFi time have worked this way. There is no EQ I have encountered in 40 years of HiFi experience that works with the flat setting with all sliders at the top. Of course, the posters unit may be defective which I cannot comment on. I am using a Bravo V3 that I obtained in March 2015 through Massdrop. Additionally, with all the sliders at the top the gain is much higher which makes the volume control almost useless because of limited travel before attaining ear bleed level. Please use the middle position as a start and then adjust for preference from there.

 

[HOWIE13]

  I have to strongly disagree with this statement. The correct flat setting is at the middle position which have indents you can feel when moving the sliders. I have tested with several DACs and several headphones and it is clear to me that the sound is audibly flat with all sliders in the middle position. All EQ's since the dawn of HiFi time have worked this way. There is no EQ I have encountered in 40 years of HiFi experience that works with the flat setting with all sliders at the top. Of course, the posters unit may be defective which I cannot comment on. I am using a Bravo V3 that I obtained in March 2015 through Massdrop. Additionally, with all the sliders at the top the gain is much higher which makes the volume control almost useless because of limited travel before attaining ear bleed level. Please use the middle position as a start and then adjust for preference from there.

 
 
'all 3 EQ turn to highest means unequalised. this is the characteristic of "passive EQ" which equiped by the Bravo V3.' (Bravo Technician)