Major update to the thread:
I have begun construction of the bluetooth headphones.
I started out by taking apart the Jensen's to see what I was dealing with in terms of circuitry:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v7...toothwhole.jpg
About a MONTH went by (probably more), and I received a pair of Grado SR60's. Took them apart and soldered the Grado drivers into the bluetooth circuit. The drivers work perfectly when the bluetooth circuit is started up. YAY I didn't mess up the Grado drivers!
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v7...a/IMG_0243.jpg
Then, I began construction on the new chambers to house the circuit boards. Details are somewhere on this page. I used a dremel with a binding attachment instead of the makeshift router jig, though:
http://www.headwize.com/projects/sho...=grado_prj.htm
Only difference is that the chambers from the 1.5" repair couplings are SLIGHTLY too small to house the circuitboards, so I shaved a bit of the inside away with a dremel.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v7...a/_MG_0245.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v7...a/_MG_0244.jpg
Then, I drilled holes in the right chamber for the power plug and the on/off switch:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v7...a/_MG_0253.jpg
Now, the charger's adapter fits right into the hole - but the on/off toggle is unreachable through that hole - so I exteneded the on/off switch. I carved this small piece out of maple, and glued it onto the on/off switch with Duco Cement. The maple piece has a small hole drilled into it that fits right over the plastic switch, so there won't be any play while switching it.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v7...a/_MG_0247.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v7...a/_MG_0249.jpg
Now that that chamber is all done (minus the paint and the cover, to come later), the other chamber needs work...
The volume buttons are in this chamber. VERY small momentary switches control the volume. I started to fashion maple button extensions, but ended up going with some modeling plastic.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v7...a/_MG_0252.jpg
I sanded the ends of the modeling plastic flat to glue easily to the momentary switches, and used Duco Cement to bond the two together. VERY sparing amounts were used to prevent the cement from bonding things that shouldn't be bonded. Why Duco Cement? Duco Cement contains a bit of acetone in it, which melts plastic for a moment. This creates a great bond between plastics (and even plastic - wood). I trust it with bonding the binding to my guitars, so I trust it here in this micro-sized application.
After it dried to a tacky-level, I rested the circuitboard upright, allowing the cement to cure overnight. After I install this circuit board in the chamber, the plastic pieces will be trimmed to a very narrow height, so as not to get caught on anything.
Still to do:
-Paint the chambers (glossy black)
-Drill the volume "button" holes in the left chamber
-Fashion chamber covers
For the chamber covers, I am considering two options: Using the SR60 ring, and replace the plastic grill with aluminum screening; or make rings out of maple or indian rosewood, with aluminum screening for the center. Opinions?
This will be completed in a couple more days, so at that point I will laugh at my doubters. Well, if I don't totally screw something up between now and then!