[cavedave]

This is sort of strange on headfi. But I will chime in I have a Gary Fisher mountain bike and a Merlin Extralite all titanium 10 speed full Campy Record.

 

[qweasd]

hi
 
im a sram user too for both mtb and roadies. As for rides, ive done quite a fair bit on carbon bikes but now im intending to go into steel roadies Serotta.
 
 
Quote:

Quick Poll for all those who care.

Campagnolo, Shimano, Sram?

I'm a Sram guy because the double tap is just plain awesome.

 

 

[pigmode]

^ Did you look into Kelly Bedford, former master builder for Serotta? If I go steel next, his lightweight TIG frame is high on my list. Its lower priced because he brings in other builders for those frames. He's still tight with Ben, and I believe he offers Serotta forks on some builds.
 
 
One reason why I'm staying with SRAM for now, is in the drops I can up/down shift without moving my hands. We have here an 8 mi two leg upwind-downwind loop, that I put in a good amount of laps per week, so a lot of time in the drops. Beyond that SRAM road groups mechanically feel pretty coarse. 

 

[kwal]

My view of the Shimano v Sram v Campy debate:
 
Shimano their road groups work really well shift crisply and smoothly. I also like that they went to under the tape cable routing for the shifters. Their MTB groups have come along way in the last few years ie shadow derailleurs and getting rid of the brifters. Now the down sides are more from the bike tech in me the new directional groupo specific chains like the new dura ace groupo only can use the Dura Ace chain and the 10 spd mountain groups only use the mountain chain and they aren't compatible with each other.
 
Sram their road works good but I also think that they aren't as smooth as the others, I also don't like the double tap shifters because they don't feel intuitive to me. Their MTB stuff does shift clunky compared to the others but I have had better luck with durability and also to me they feel like they need less force to shift 2:1 pull and all. Also the parts compatibility is the best of the big three.
 
Campy probably is the smoothest but the upfront cost and upkeep cost is way to much for me to even think about trying it for myself.
 
My road bike and cross/commuter bikes are Shimano and my MTB is a Sram rear and a Shimano front (when I decided to quit racing 4x I put all my better parts on my trail rig and I didn't have a Sram front shifter)
 
I have been a bike tech for the last 3.5 years and this is just what I have seen during that time.

 

[MuuMuu]

Quote:

You have way too many risers below your stem, and yup, if you can, your seat should go up and bars should go down to get a proper seated position, will result in more efficient distribution of energy.
 


 

that actually is about the best seat position.  You could say the bike is too big, or that I have short legs...  Up on top it feels comfy and pretty good on the TT length esp. w/ the touring-style setup of the handlebars.  Heck, I like it enough I'm considering getting angle-adjustable stems for my other roadbike (another Jamis, a Xenith Comp).  It's not like I'm competing or anything, and an extra 10 degrees can do a lot to save your back and your nuts from peril.

 

[kwal]

Quote:

that actually is about the best seat position.  You could say the bike is too big, or that I have short legs...  Up on top it feels comfy and pretty good on the TT length esp. w/ the touring-style setup of the handlebars.  Heck, I like it enough I'm considering getting angle-adjustable stems for my other roadbike (another Jamis, a Xenith Comp).  It's not like I'm competing or anything, and an extra 10 degrees can do a lot to save your back and your nuts from peril.

 
That is the wrong size bike for you if you're getting the right leg extension with the seat in that position. Other than that the bike is setup real nice as a tourer/commuter. The earlier comment about tires if I was riding that bike I wouldn't go smaller than 28s since it is not designed as a racer but a tourer/commuter, you may go faster with a smaller tire but you lose bump absorbtion (remember a tire is going to give quicker than steel) and you also are more prone to flats.
 
jamesnz most people don't need a bike with the most efficient position they need a bike that is comfortable. That is one of the problems that bike riding has in the USA, everybody hears you're a bike rider they think Lance Armstrong not the guy riding to work or the coffee shop.

 

[theoandtheb]

Pigmode, please tell me you took more pictures of that Colnago.

 

[MuuMuu]

I will be bringing it to the bike shop I got it from next wk and talk over a exchange w/ a smaller model.  However, 1) it's a clearance item and they may not have the 'other model,' and 2) after using for a week or two I'm starting to think, if it feels good for me, why should I care?  Yes the bike looks wonky w/ the seat that low, and yes I do have a bit of a clearance problem up top if I don't give the bike a small tilt, but that's about the only issue I've experienced so far.  going down a size will make it look more 'normal' but that's about it.  tube length gets shortened by only 1cm, and that's already a pretty good fit IMO.  If you can think of other things that may crop up though, I'd like to hear it.
 
My other bike is basically the same size, except that it's a compact frame.  Same effective top tube length, easier to get on because of the frame size, probably angled a little better for my back since I don't have to hunch down like I would if I was using a properly sized roadbike.  I have a slightly messed up hip and definitely have no problems riding in a more 'fitness' oriented position.
 
Quote:

 
That is the wrong size bike for you if you're getting the right leg extension with the seat in that position. Other than that the bike is setup real nice as a tourer/commuter. The earlier comment about tires if I was riding that bike I wouldn't go smaller than 28s since it is not designed as a racer but a tourer/commuter, you may go faster with a smaller tire but you lose bump absorbtion (remember a tire is going to give quicker than steel) and you also are more prone to flats.
 
jamesnz most people don't need a bike with the most efficient position they need a bike that is comfortable. That is one of the problems that bike riding has in the USA, everybody hears you're a bike rider they think Lance Armstrong not the guy riding to work or the coffee shop.

 

 

[jamesnz]

If it's comfortable and you're happy with it, then good, don't worry about returning it. Sorry, I said that because people can sometimes find themselves getting really tired butts with similar positions.
If they do have a smaller frame size, ride it before you swap. You may find you prefer a longer top-tube, or it could potentially do wonders for your back to have less extension forward to the bars.
 
Otherwise, t's a really good looking bike.

 

[kwal]

Sounds to me you have the same bike fit issue I have long torso short legs. I should be riding a 60 but I have problems getting off and on. My surly crosscheck is the best fit I have found mostly because it has a low BB and a long stem (it's a 58). With mountain bikes I ride dirt jump frames, soon hopefully I can find a good trail bike that is comfy, trek's Gary Fisher collection 29ers are the best fit I have found yet for me.
 
If you're comfy on it ride it that's all that really matters
Quote:

I will be bringing it to the bike shop I got it from next wk and talk over a exchange w/ a smaller model.  However, 1) it's a clearance item and they may not have the 'other model,' and 2) after using for a week or two I'm starting to think, if it feels good for me, why should I care?  Yes the bike looks wonky w/ the seat that low, and yes I do have a bit of a clearance problem up top if I don't give the bike a small tilt, but that's about the only issue I've experienced so far.  going down a size will make it look more 'normal' but that's about it.  tube length gets shortened by only 1cm, and that's already a pretty good fit IMO.  If you can think of other things that may crop up though, I'd like to hear it.
 
My other bike is basically the same size, except that it's a compact frame.  Same effective top tube length, easier to get on because of the frame size, probably angled a little better for my back since I don't have to hunch down like I would if I was using a properly sized roadbike.  I have a slightly messed up hip and definitely have no problems riding in a more 'fitness' oriented position.
 


 

 

 

[Old Pa]

Wow, lots going on here since I started this thread way back when.  Thanks for the interest, stay on the big wheel, and keep on riding!

 

[rayuma]

Bikes are awesome!

 

[theoandtheb]

Hmm a new Gary Fisher Rumblefish or a Lyr/Bifrost combo...that is the question? Seriously, why do I have such expensive hobbies?

 

[ocswing]

Quote:

Hmm a new Gary Fisher Rumblefish or a Lyr/Bifrost combo...that is the question? Seriously, why do I have such expensive hobbies?

Wow, the Lyr/Bifrost would be a lot cheaper. I have an old Fisher and I've always been a fan, but I think it's a bit sad that Trek took them over. Cycling does get expensive pretty quick. I'm hoping to finish my home rig and looking at a Giant XTC Composite 29er. Hopefully...

 

[theoandtheb]

Yes, there is about a $1200 difference but I think I'd enjoy the bike more (yes I realize where I am). A friend recently made the switch to a 29er and absolutely loves it. Ideally I'd like to test a Fisher 29er at one of Trek's demo days but just can't make any of the ones that are reasonably close to me. And why no love for Trek?