Beyerdynamic T1/T5p Modifications and Tweaks Thread
Dec 6, 2015 at 2:50 PM Post #17 of 35
 
Yes thanks. But i´m form Germany so i hesitate to send the T5p around the world. In another forum i have read sth. about stephan audio too so i´m quite interested who is doing stuff like that in Germany or as the hint from Rasmushorn in Denmark.


You could ask the guys at http://www.headsound.de - while they may not be able to do it themselves, they might know someone in Germany who can help you :)
 
Dec 7, 2015 at 3:46 PM Post #18 of 35
 
You could ask the guys at http://www.headsound.de - while they may not be able to do it themselves, they might know someone in Germany who can help you :)

Wow, thanks for this hint.
smile.gif

 
Have you changed the cables just because the initial ones have been broken and you needed sth new and more stable or even to "enhance" the sound somehow in a certain direction?
 
One more thing: I have read carefully your tests about the A1. On Saturday i have won the orange version accidently on ebay.
 
Do you have experiences with cables? My idea is Macbook Air > USB RME Babyface >ADAT out to ADAT Mojo > Line out to RCA A1.
 
Makes it sense to use sth. like Audioquest cables like the Carbons and Golden Gates and Vodkas everywhere or only at certain places or do i overthink it? I dont know how emotional guys discuss this topic here so we can PM it. Thanks to Denmark 12 points next year from me!
 
Dec 8, 2015 at 3:09 AM Post #19 of 35
  Have you changed the cables just because the initial ones have been broken and you needed sth new and more stable or even to "enhance" the sound somehow in a certain direction?
 
One more thing: I have read carefully your tests about the A1. On Saturday i have won the orange version accidently on ebay.
 
Do you have experiences with cables? My idea is Macbook Air > USB RME Babyface >ADAT out to ADAT Mojo > Line out to RCA A1.
 
Makes it sense to use sth. like Audioquest cables like the Carbons and Golden Gates and Vodkas everywhere or only at certain places or do i overthink it? I dont know how emotional guys discuss this topic here so we can PM it. Thanks to Denmark 12 points next year from me!

I changed only because the stock cable broke after the warranty expired. I have had good experience with gold+silver cables for my HD650 so I thought that would be a good idea for the T5p. The A1 is a great amplifier. Good luck with the A1 + T5p combo. I am sure you will love it. :)
 
I do not have a lot of experience with cables and interconnects. I always buy cables based on how they feel and look. How flexible they are and if they are heavy or light. If I should give one recommendation for a cheap USB DAC in the EU which sounds VERY good and will probably be my next DAC. You should have a look at: http://www.henryaudio.de
 
I do not know the USB RME babyface or the ADAT. But Henry Audio --> A1 --> T5p would be a killer combo. 
 
Dec 11, 2015 at 4:31 PM Post #20 of 35
  I changed only because the stock cable broke after the warranty expired. I have had good experience with gold+silver cables for my HD650 so I thought that would be a good idea for the T5p. The A1 is a great amplifier. Good luck with the A1 + T5p combo. I am sure you will love it. :)
 
I do not have a lot of experience with cables and interconnects. I always buy cables based on how they feel and look. How flexible they are and if they are heavy or light. If I should give one recommendation for a cheap USB DAC in the EU which sounds VERY good and will probably be my next DAC. You should have a look at: http://www.henryaudio.de
 
I do not know the USB RME babyface or the ADAT. But Henry Audio --> A1 --> T5p would be a killer combo. 


Many thanks for this feedback! This is quite interesting.
I have no the A1 at home and everything is like Arrttt described. One week and then is Christmas holidays and i will have more time. Really looking forward that.
This Henry DAC would fit perfectly in my listening corner.
Thanks for your time explaining me all that stuff.
 
Feb 3, 2016 at 5:35 PM Post #21 of 35
Hi everyone, I know this is probably the wrong thread for advice on problems with the T1 v1 but as modders you all have a wealth of technical knowledge about the t1 which might make you able to help me out.
Long story short I have a buzz coming from the right driver of my t1's only noticeable when playing quiet pieces where the bass plays alone or just with vocals. This is definitely not on the recording as I have tried a number of other headphones which produce no buzz or distortion at all.
I used to own some dt770 which developed a similar fault and after following advice on examining the drivers for debris to no avail I eventually narrowed the problem down to the cables internally in the right cup which were vibrating on the driver housing.
I don't think it is the cables with the t1 as they are shielded with plastic sleeves and am not sure how to disassemble the driver due to the tesla design. Has anyone disassembled the t1 drivers and could give me some tips or has someone had a similar problem and found a solution?
Any help would be greatfully received.
Thankyou in advance
 
Feb 3, 2016 at 6:45 PM Post #22 of 35
Hi everyone, I know this is probably the wrong thread for advice on problems with the T1 v1 but as modders you all have a wealth of technical knowledge about the t1 which might make you able to help me out.
Long story short I have a buzz coming from the right driver of my t1's only noticeable when playing quiet pieces where the bass plays alone or just with vocals. This is definitely not on the recording as I have tried a number of other headphones which produce no buzz or distortion at all.
I used to own some dt770 which developed a similar fault and after following advice on examining the drivers for debris to no avail I eventually narrowed the problem down to the cables internally in the right cup which were vibrating on the driver housing.
I don't think it is the cables with the t1 as they are shielded with plastic sleeves and am not sure how to disassemble the driver due to the tesla design. Has anyone disassembled the t1 drivers and could give me some tips or has someone had a similar problem and found a solution?
Any help would be greatfully received.
Thankyou in advance

Hmm, this seems to be a very odd issue indeed. Before you attempt re-cabling the headphones I would send an email to Beyerdynamic and see what they have to say about the issue. A driver replacement may be in order. But if Beyer doesn't have any words of advice for you I would say it might be worth recabling your T1's as it may just be the wire in the cable itself that has developed some sort of issue. Good luck!
 
- InsanityOne 
dt880smile.png
 
 
Feb 4, 2016 at 2:11 PM Post #23 of 35
Hmm, this seems to be a very odd issue indeed. Before you attempt re-cabling the headphones I would send an email to Beyerdynamic and see what they have to say about the issue. A driver replacement may be in order. But if Beyer doesn't have any words of advice for you I would say it might be worth recabling your T1's as it may just be the wire in the cable itself that has developed some sort of issue. Good luck!

- InsanityOne :dt880smile:  


Thanks for the reply but I don't think I have explained myself properly. The vibration in my dt770 was not due to a dodgy connection or broken wire but a physical vibration which was caused by the plastic sleeve of the wire touching the back of the driver housing itself. Once the wires were isolated it went away.

I wonder if the same could be happening with my t1's?

Another thing I have considered is the whole driver unit itself vibrating against the case. I've never understood why beyer dont fasten the drivers into the housing more securely as they can't be a very tight fit due to the fact they easily fall out once the retention ring is removed.

Thoughts anyone?
 
Feb 4, 2016 at 2:23 PM Post #24 of 35
Thanks for the reply but I don't think I have explained myself properly. The vibration in my dt770 was not due to a dodgy connection or broken wire but a physical vibration which was caused by the plastic sleeve of the wire touching the back of the driver housing itself. Once the wires were isolated it went away.

I wonder if the same could be happening with my t1's?

Another thing I have considered is the whole driver unit itself vibrating against the case. I've never understood why beyer dont fasten the drivers into the housing more securely as they can't be a very tight fit due to the fact they easily fall out once the retention ring is removed.

Thoughts anyone?

 
Yes I understood what you meant about the cable physically touching the inner-housing and causing a vibration. Either way I think before you start digging around inside of the T1's you should contact Beyer via. email. They may have some insight on the issue.
 
If you want to see a detailed guide on dismantling the T1's I would recommend this video:
 

 
As far as I know there is not any sticker or "security tab" that would alert Beyer if you completely took apart the T1's and then put them back together if they ended up needing to be serviced. So you should be safe to look into the issue yourself if you desire.
 
- InsanityOne 
dt880smile.png
 
 
Feb 4, 2016 at 2:49 PM Post #25 of 35
Yes I understood what you meant about the cable physically touching the inner-housing and causing a vibration. Either way I think before you start digging around inside of the T1's you should contact Beyer via. email. They may have some insight on the issue.

If you want to see a detailed guide on dismantling the T1's I would recommend this video:




As far as I know there is not any sticker or "security tab" that would alert Beyer if you completely took apart the T1's and then put them back together if they ended up needing to be serviced. So you should be safe to look into the issue yourself if you desire.

- InsanityOne :dt880smile:  


Thanks once again for your advice. The headphones are long out of warranty now and I think they would probably just tell me to send them for an expensive service or driver replacement although I guess I'll never know unless I try.

Thanks for the video link, it is indeed very useful, a shame that the poster didn't disassemble the driver itself but it has the same hex screws ised throughout so as long as I'm careful not to break any wires etc it should be OK. The strength of the magnets used may be an issue though.
I have already used compressed air into the back of the driver in case a hair or something had lodged there but this hasn't made a difference.
I was thinking my next steps will be to use plumbers tape around the entire driver housing to make a tight fit into the cup to isolate whether this is the source of vibrations and if not use some cotton wool pads to cover the wiring to eliminate the possibility of physical vibrations caused by the cables.
If neither of these work then I'll be cracking open the driver to hunt for debris inside.
Hopefully it won't come to a new driver which I heard cost 500€ a pair!!
 
Feb 4, 2016 at 3:05 PM Post #26 of 35
Thanks once again for your advice. The headphones are long out of warranty now and I think they would probably just tell me to send them for an expensive service or driver replacement although I guess I'll never know unless I try.

Thanks for the video link, it is indeed very useful, a shame that the poster didn't disassemble the driver itself but it has the same hex screws ised throughout so as long as I'm careful not to break any wires etc it should be OK. The strength of the magnets used may be an issue though.
I have already used compressed air into the back of the driver in case a hair or something had lodged there but this hasn't made a difference.
I was thinking my next steps will be to use plumbers tape around the entire driver housing to make a tight fit into the cup to isolate whether this is the source of vibrations and if not use some cotton wool pads to cover the wiring to eliminate the possibility of physical vibrations caused by the cables.
If neither of these work then I'll be cracking open the driver to hunt for debris inside.
Hopefully it won't come to a new driver which I heard cost 500€ a pair!!

I think 500€ for a pair of T1 drivers seems a bit exaggerated. After reviewing Beyers repair service site I was able to find this quote:
 
"Tesla System Drivers are considerably more expensive than conventional drivers. A complete price list will appear soon, but for now, a simple example. The retail price of the T70 system driver is $123.00, so the complete job will run about $155."

 
Source: http://unitedsoundservicesllc.com/?page_id=90
 
- InsanityOne 
o2smile.gif

 
May 17, 2016 at 1:47 PM Post #28 of 35
Guys can you recommend me good cable for T1?
But nothing expensive. Even stock cable (sommer cable) is "cheap" to buy.
 
Reason i want to recable is to put shorter one. 
 
May 17, 2016 at 6:47 PM Post #30 of 35
  Guys can you recommend me good cable for T1?
But nothing expensive. Even stock cable (sommer cable) is "cheap" to buy.
 
Reason i want to recable is to put shorter one. 

 
  Anyone?

 
I can provide you with a list of cables that I know several people have enjoyed with the T5p's / T1's:
 
  1. Moon Audio Black Dragon V2: http://www.moon-audio.com/black-dragon-headphone-cable-v2.html
  2. Q-Audio French Silk: http://www.q-audio.com/home/
  3. Norne Audio Vanquish, Draug 2, Zoetic: http://www.norneaudio.com/litzheim/index.php?route=product/category&path=17
  4. Custom Cable From @PETEREK
 
If you are looking for the most budget friendly (but still high performing) cable I would look at the Norne Audio Vanquish, Q-Audio French Silk, or especially a custom cable from @PETEREK. The T1 tends to be a bright headphone so I would avoid any cables that incorporates a lot of silver as silver tends to not pair well with bright headphones.
 
But of course, headphone cable preference varies greatly from user to user and no two people have the same taste in how they want their audio to sound. So be sure to choose a headphone cable based on your own thoughts / opinions. YMMV as well.
 
- InsanityOne  
darthsmile.gif
 
 

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