Man whoever said that beyerdynamics were not mid friendly was not kidding.. I guess I put too much heat on the ground pin on the driver and it came right out.. I put it back in physically but it seems im not getting signal.. Do I have a dead driver?
I did the same mistake. In the beginning, I had a pair with a faulty right driver and purchased two cheap 250 Ohm drivers with the idea of replace them all and also make the detachable cable mod.
After damaging the 250 Ohm good left driver I decided to invest more money on a pair of original Beyer's 600 Ohm drivers and make a total swap (plus cable mod) so that I could have a pair of 600 Ohm DT990!
Customer service at Beyer's was kind enough to confirm that drivers are interchangeable.
There's good and bad in original drivers - they're not cheap (98 euro a pair + S&H, that's bad) but the new drivers have a totally different way of attaching wires: no more protruding metal terminals but a small green PCB-looking board with 4 pads, and that's GOOD.
You must anyway use a solder gun that is made for PCB jobs so it does not heat too much. i don't have a soldering station with temp control but a good 23 Watt soldering gun with a tiny tip.
The solder attaches to the pads veeery easily and so the new wires after you tin the wires' tips properly.
The rest is easily described - dremel out the square opening to accomodate the mini XLR socket.
I made it on both cups - did not want to have a piece of cable running to the right cup like in the original design.
A couple of tips: I put an O-ring between the socket outer ring and the earcups so the flat outer metal ring does not come into direct contact with the rounded surface of the cup.
The small O-ring will evenly distribute the contact pressure between the parts and it's a better surface to put some super glue for ensuring a fixed installation.
Internally, I distributed hot glue as the socket's retaining nut does not fit in.
Second tip - how to close the tiny holes that are made to run the cable from left to right cup? Again, a piece of O-ring of suitable cross section, just cut 1 cm and plug it inside the holes until you level it with the cup surface. It's black, almost invisible.