Best Way to Drive a 2.1 setup? Under $250
Mar 27, 2004 at 9:44 AM Post #2 of 14
I don't think you should run both the bookshelves and the shiva off of the same amp.

You're going to need to spend a good $120 or so on the subwoofer amp. There's just no avoiding it. I'd recommend the kg amp that madisound carries, but it's a little pricy. There's also the partsexpress plate amp for around $130, or less if you can grab it off of their ebay auctions. The other option is the one I did, which is rythmikaudio.com. They have the PE plate amp but modded for lower distortion and a bunch of other options, depending on which one you want.

That leaves you with around $100 for the amp for the speakers. I haven't heard this amp myself, but from what I've read, I have to recommend the Griffin Powerwave.

Here's a link to the discussions about it on audiocircle:
http://www.audiocircle.com/circles/v...ight=powerwave

Here's a link to a brief discussion about the Powerwave driving speakers:
http://www.audiocircle.com/circles/v...ight=powerwave

Here's a link to the potential mods you can do to the Powerwave:
http://www.audiocircle.com/circles/v...ight=powerwave

If what they're saying is right, you aren't even making a compromise! It's supposed to be a killer amp.
 
Mar 28, 2004 at 3:02 AM Post #4 of 14
Btw, thanks very much for the reply, I will probably get the powerwave and the Rythmik Audio plate amp like you suggested
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Mar 28, 2004 at 4:54 AM Post #5 of 14
You would need a subamp that will take speaker level input and has speaker lever output. You'd also need an extra pair of speaker cables. This would mean that you have a pair of speaker cables going from your amp to the subamp; and a second pair of speaker cables running from subamp out to the speakers.
 
Mar 28, 2004 at 7:00 AM Post #6 of 14
The rythmikaudio sub amp has speaker level inputs, so no problems on that front.

The "audiophile approved" way to wire it is to run two sets of wire from the amp to the sub and to the speakers instead of daisy chaining. This may be trouble with the powerwave though because by all accounts, the little speaker breakout is cheesy
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Mar 28, 2004 at 7:17 AM Post #7 of 14
How would you connect two sets of speaker cables from the main amp out to the subamp and speakers?

Actually, can I run one set from my 8ohm tap to speakers and second set from 4ohm tap to sub? That would work nicely, if it works. I don't want to blow out anything.
 
Mar 28, 2004 at 7:46 AM Post #8 of 14
Typically, you could use one of those dual wire banana plugs. Or you could use spades for one wire and banana for the other. Or you could jam two bare wires in. Or you could use bare wire for one and bananas for the other.

Basically you fit both wires onto the same terminal. The most elegant way is probably the dual wire banana plug. Or if you want a more flexible connection, you could use a mix of spades and bananas.

Some amps have an A and B setting. You could use that if you have it. The power wave doesn't so you'll have to make do.

Actually, the powerwave has a pair of RCA outputs. You should check to see if the RCA output is line level or speaker level and if it can be run concurrently with the regular output. If it's line level, gastro's got it made. Just run some RCA's from it to the line level input. If it's speaker level, you'll have to cut off one of the connectors of some cheapo rca cable and either run it bare wire or reterminate it to spades or bananas.

For darkcloud, now that I think about it, you could probably do your 4ohm tap method without a hitch. The subamp shouldn't actually draw much current.
 
Mar 28, 2004 at 7:58 AM Post #9 of 14
Actually, by running both sets of cables from amp to sub and speakers, you're bypassing the sub's internal cross over. Do you really want to do that? and have the speakers running full range?

For an example, if I set my sub's crossover at 60hz and running my amp from the sub, I would be limiting my speakers response from having to go lower than 60hz. This would be less taxing on my main amp and speakers since they don't have to push lower than 60hz.
 
Mar 28, 2004 at 8:04 AM Post #10 of 14
Which is why it's the "less audiophile" way to do it. "Audiophiles" want less electronics in the way and for the mains to run as naturally as possible to maintain their true sound and integrity. Then it's just the job of the sub amp's lowpass filter to match the sub to the mains.

Using the sub's highpass crossover is usually frowned on because that highpass filter isn't very high quality. It could be a viable option if your amp is having trouble pushing your mains though. So basically, the budget way is to use the sub's crossover and the "audiophile" way is to go full range. Of course the audiophile way assumes that your amp has no trouble driving your speakers.

"Audiophile" issues aside, you should go for the one that sounds best to you
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Mar 28, 2004 at 9:44 AM Post #11 of 14
You see, my problem with running it the "audiophile's way" is that my Zu Julians, 2 pairs, are all terminated with bananas.
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Well, looks like I'm spending some more money (I was trying real hard not to).
 
Mar 28, 2004 at 2:56 PM Post #12 of 14
Does this mean the RCAs are line level or speaker level?


Minimum RMS Output Power per Channel:
15 W + 15 W (10 Hz – 20kHz, 10W , 0.1% THD)
Input Sensitivity/Impedance
RCA in (Line Level Mode) –15.0dBu , Greater Than 20kOhms
RCA in (Mic Level Mode) –30.0dBu, 7000 Ohms
Maximum Input Signal
RCA in (Line Level Mode) 0.0dBu
RCA in (Mic Level Mode) –15.0dBu
Output Level/Impedance
RCA out –2.0dBu , 600 ohms
Frequency Response (20Hz –20kHz)
RCA IN to RCA Out, Via USB Loopback
+/- 1.0dB
Total Harmonic Distortion (20Hz – 20kHz)
RCA IN to RCA Out, Via USB Loopback
0.03% Line Level Mode
0.07% Mic Level Mode
Signal to Noise Ratio
85dB
Residual Noise
72dB below nominal input level
 
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