[3Double]

I plan on using the 276-0170 board for my CMOY. Looking at Tangent's tutorial picture, I see what he calls jumpers: http://tangentsoft.net/audio/cmoy-tu...170-step-1.jpg

being a complete DIY noob, I'm not sure what the jumpers should look like on the other side of the board. There are 3 jumpers in the picture Tangent has provided. Is each jumper simply a discrete loop of wire? Will the tips of each jumper be soldered together? twisted together?

Thanks in advance. And thanks to Tangent for creating a guide comprehensive enough to tempt me into DIY!

 

[Sycraft]

A jumper is just a wire. Hook one component to another without changing the signal (well, changing it as little as you can). The jumper should be soldered to the hole it's in.

 

[3Double]

Thank you for your answer Sycraft.

So a Jumper is basically a way of connecting various components? I can assume the jumpers in the pic I linked are simply bits of wire that are each soldered into the hole you see them going into.

 

[tangent]

Yes, except for the M jumpers, which connect three things together, not two.

 

[3Double]

ok, jumpers complete

now I'm putting in the caps and I'm not sure what exactly to do...surprised?

do the legs of the caps get soldered to anything? If so, what?

Looking at this http://www.tangentsoft.net/audio/cmo...nn-board-1.jpg
it seems as if the capacitors legs hook to the jumpers to the right and left of the capacitors, respectively. Is this correct?

I'm gonna unplug the soldering iron for now. I don't want to screw anything up. Yet.

Thanks again in advance.

edit: I'm just gonna solder the legs to their holes. I had a moment of clarity looking at the top side of the board and seeing all the copper. I guess that's what conducts juice from jumper to jumper etc....

 

[3Double]

btw, 10 minute par on putting the jumpers in? I'm shooting about 45 minutes over bogey.

edit: if someone has handy a pic of the underside of the circuit board, that might be useful. I'm just trying to imagine where everything connects, and I'm finding that my imagination isn't quite cuttin' it.

 

[Earwax]

Quote:

Originally Posted by 3Double I'm just gonna solder the legs to their holes. I had a moment of clarity looking at the top side of the board and seeing all the copper. I guess that's what conducts juice from jumper to jumper etc....

That's right.

Quote:

btw, 10 minute par on putting the jumpers in? I'm shooting about 45 minutes over bogey

It took me about twice as long as the times on Tangent's site to solder my amp. And I wrecked two mint tins before I got the amp mounted nicely in a tin. So total build time was like quadruple bogie. But the time didn't matter in the least bit once I turned on the amp and it actually worked.

 

[meat01]

Quote:

edit: if someone has handy a pic of the underside of the circuit board, that might be useful. I'm just trying to imagine where everything connects, and I'm finding that my imagination isn't quite cuttin' it.

Cmoy pics

unfortunately, mine is the 276-150 board

 

[3Double]

thanks for the pics, meat01. I noticed that some of your soldering connects the two holes a jumper or component goes into. Is that not a big deal in terms of electrical flow or whatever?

I ended up using the same board as you did, so your pics are really appreciated, although I'm using Tangent's design, and you seem to be using something slightly different, am I correct?

 

[Sycraft]

Well, her's how ti goes with the holes and such. You see the ligh coloured areas? Those represent electrical connections between holes. All holes htat are in a given light colouted area are elelctrically connected (eith traces on the circut board). So, if you have two components that go in different holes of the same light coloured area and solder them in, they will all be connected. The flipside of the is if you screw up and some solder runs over, no big deal, it;s all connected anyhow, your extra connection changes nothing more or less. Now if you solder across two different light sections without meanign to, that's a problem. However extra solder in one section makes no difference.

 

[meat01]

Mine is based on Tangent's, but I am using a rail splitter (top black transistor thing) instead of the 2 resistors. As far as the solder going into holes, as long as it is not bridged across another pad that it shouls not be, it is not a problem.

 

[3Double]

Thanks for the info, folks. As of 5 a.m. this morning, the power supply is complete. I tested it and everything looks ok on the meter.

I can't wait to get to the next stage.

 

[3Double]

Ok,

I'm hooking the V+ and V- wires up to the v+ and v- legs on the opamp. The instructions say that the wires hook up the 4th and 8th leg. How do I determine which legs these are? Are they the two legs closest to the power suplly or furthest from it? I'm gonna try the two closest legs, since if I look at the top of the opamp and count off clockwise, the 4th and 8th are the two closest.

 

[meat01]

Pin one is the pin on the right closest to the notch, if the notch is pointing down. Then you count up (counter clockwise). The other thing you can do (which is probably better) is go to the data sheet on the web and see what each pin does. This is a good habit to get into.

 

[3Double]

thanks Meat, I will check into chip schematics next time. Didn't think to do that. Would that make pin 8 caddy corner to pin 4 or would pin 8 be straight across from 4?