[jaystink]

i'm not sure this is exactly the right place to post this, but i need to recable my ath-es7 's, but i've new to the whole headphone scene. i'm sure i'm capable of recabling them. this guide is just what i was looking for, but i'm not sure exactly which wires/jacks to get, and have no idea where to get them from. i asked at a local music shop, the source, and futureshop, but got no useful help. i've also searched elsewhere on head-fi, but haven't really found what i'm looking for.
 
Joelby, where did you get your materials? and does the 26 AWG silver-plated copper twisted pair come with a headphone jack, or did you use another, or reuse the one on the headphones' original cable?
 
i miss my es7 's, so i'd really appreciate some help

 

[Joelby]

Quote:

Anyway I tracked down Canara L-2E5 cable here, which is a dual twisted pair. I'm assuming each cup of the ESW9 (haven't opened mine yet) has 1 channel and 1 ground.

Since it looks like you are also using a twisted 2 wire cable, are you connecting the grounds from each cup to the cables shield at the Y split? or is your main cable a quad?

Thanks!

 
I did indeed use twisted pairs. The main cable is quad, with the grounds meeting at the plug. You could connect them at the split but this would probably be less durable.
 



 
Quote:

i'm not sure this is exactly the right place to post this, but i need to recable my ath-es7 's, but i've new to the whole headphone scene. i'm sure i'm capable of recabling them. this guide is just what i was looking for, but i'm not sure exactly which wires/jacks to get, and have no idea where to get them from. i asked at a local music shop, the source, and futureshop, but got no useful help. i've also searched elsewhere on head-fi, but haven't really found what i'm looking for.
 
Joelby, where did you get your materials? and does the 26 AWG silver-plated copper twisted pair come with a headphone jack, or did you use another, or reuse the one on the headphones' original cable?
 
i miss my es7 's, so i'd really appreciate some help

 
markertek is always a great supplier. Best if u live in the us. Otherwise, a minimum $100 purchase is required for international. Cable isn't going to come with a jack unless your buying a complete aftermarket cable. 
If u want to go cheap, get some mogami star quad and a neutrik plug. Would cost u ~$15
 
UPDATE : NO LONGER USING SLEAVING AFTER THE Y SPLIT ON MY CABLES. FINDING HEATSHRINK IS MUCH MORE FLEXIBLE WHILE STILL DURABLE. I'LL UPDATE THE ORIGINAL POST WHEN I GET A CHANCE WITH NEW PICS.

 

[broken24]

Hey, just wanted to say thanks for this thread. It has helped me a lot.

 

[crowley]

i'm so tempted to do this but i haven't soldered anything in ages

 

[nosaj03]

How did you determine the connections on the soldering post of the drivers?

 

[Joelby]

Best to use a multimeter to check continuity (resistance) between the post and the plug. For instance, if you're checking the posts on the left driver: test between the tip (left +) of the plug and the posts. One will have infinite resistance, the other will have a low ohm value. The one that has a value is the + post. Confirm by checking the other post and the sleeve (ground) of the plug.
 
Right + is the ring of the plug.

 
Quote:

How did you determine the connections on the soldering post of the drivers?

 

[nosaj03]

 
Quote:

Best to use a multimeter to check continuity (resistance) between the post and the plug. For instance, if you're checking the posts on the left driver: test between the tip (left +) of the plug and the posts. One will have infinite resistance, the other will have a low ohm value. The one that has a value is the + post. Confirm by checking the other post and the sleeve (ground) of the plug.
 
Right + is the ring of the plug.

 

 

Ok gotcha! I figured thats what you did. You tested it prior to cutting the stock connector.
 

 

[Bostonears]

 

Best to use a multimeter to check continuity (resistance) between the post and the plug. For instance, if you're checking the posts on the left driver: test between the tip (left +) of the plug and the posts. One will have infinite resistance, the other will have a low ohm value. The one that has a value is the + post. Confirm by checking the other post and the sleeve (ground) of the plug.

Joelby's is a good method to check for proper connection of an existing cable attachment. But if you're going to recable the phones, you're going to desolder the wires anyway. The method I use is to record the position of each wire at the driver attachment, e.g. take a picture with a digital camera. Then, desolder the wires from the drivers, and use a multimeter to check continuity of each wire to the plug. That way, you don't have to be concerned with resistance values. You either have continuity or you don't.

 

[dmort]

I'm going to do this - I've purchased: 
 
 
1 [SHRINK-14-GY] Sumitube B2 Heat Shrink Tubing 1/4in Grey - 4 Feet @$0.49/ea = $0.49
2 [NYS-231BG] Neutrik NYS231BG 3.5MM TRS Plug Black/Gold @$1.10/ea = $2.20
1 [SHT18BE-4] Heat Shrink Tubing 1/8 Inch Blue- 4FT @$2.32/ea = $2.32
12 [L-4E5C BK] Canare L-4E5C Mini-Star-Quad Microphone Cable by the Foot - Black @$0.50/ea = $6.00
1 [SHT12BK-4] Heat Shrink Tubing 1/2in. Black 4ft @$2.45/ea = $2.45
 
This guide, plus other take apart guides for other models have helped me get a handle on how its done. Only one question, how can I tell which wire is ground and which wire is the active channel before desoldering? I know this is being addressed above but I'm not sure I totally understand. Or is it safe to assume that the wire that is white is ground and the wire that is colored is the active channel? 
 
My intention is strip the Canare wire into two pairs (for the section between the y split and the headphone), twist them, then use heat shrink tubing to complete the sheave. I've also ordered that y cable pants item that was described in an earlier post to make the y split studier and more elegant. 
 
Will the neutrik plug have the solder points labeled? how am I to know which is ground vs. left. vs. right channel? 
 
Obviously I will test connections before soldering.
 
And, I will post pictures.

 

[Bostonears]

 

 
Will the neutrik plug have the solder points labeled? how am I to know which is ground vs. left. vs. right channel? 

For TRS plugs:
 
tip = left channel (at the solder points, this will be the one coming straight out from the center of the plug)
ring = right channel
sleeve = ground (large, outer attachment)

 

[dmort]

That is super helpful and totally answers my question! Thank you! Recieved my markertek order, now just waiting for the parts express half of things. 
 
With risk of hijacking the thread - anyone have a portable amp to reccomend with esw9s? I'd like to spend around $100 and was looking at the ibasso t3 as an option. Are there others to consider of similar quality, features, and price? Thanks Audio Technica people!

 

[Joelby]

I justed bought the iBasso D4 and it sounds excellent with the ESW9s. More expensive than the T4 but it has a USB DAC as well. I think the T4 is geared more for IEMs and probably puts out less power than the D4. That be said, ESW9s are super easy to drive.

 

[Joelby]

UPDATE: I've recabled these phones for the final time. I went with Canare Mini Star Quad this time. I love the look of techflex on the cable but found that with it sheathing the mini quad it would not fit through the barrel of the 1/8 Neutrik plug. My solution was to remove the insulation from the quad cable. I left the shielding intact. Another solution would be to drill out the hole on the barrel. I prefer the former method as the end result is a slimmer cable with ample protection from the shielding and techflex.
 
The end result is a solid, flexible, portable cable that looks great. The metal shielding under a single techflex layer gives it a really pro look. I keep saying that I'll post pics... fail on my part. Times are busy and I really only get on headfi at work now.
 
Either way when I get a chance I'm going to clean up this guide with new pics.

 

[skn]

Sorry for bumping a months old thread, I just need some help. I bought the materials and set out to doing the recable, but as soon as I de-soldered the old wire and tried re-soldering the new one on one of the headphones, the metallic what-you-call it where you solder the wire just came off, and the cable doesn't seem to be able to be soldered at the plastic-like thing below it. Is there any chance of survival of my ESW9s or did I just break them beyond repair?

 

[k0gs]

Quote:

Sorry for bumping a months old thread, I just need some help. I bought the materials and set out to doing the recable, but as soon as I de-soldered the old wire and tried re-soldering the new one on one of the headphones, the metallic what-you-call it where you solder the wire just came off, and the cable doesn't seem to be able to be soldered at the plastic-like thing below it. Is there any chance of survival of my ESW9s or did I just break them beyond repair?

I'm surprised no one's replied.  I'm guessing by now you've either chucked them or figured out how to fix 'em.  It looks like you applied too much heat and the metal pad came off the plastic.  If you haven't torn the tiny wire that connects to it, I would get some epoxy and glue that sucker back on.  Afterwards. you should clean the metal pads with some alcohol, use a low heat soldering iron and a small flux core solder so it melts the solder quick.  Remember to tin the wire ends first, put the wire on the pad, apply solder tip then solder.