[CD44hi]

I remember when these headphones first came into production, some owners had some bass-related rattle issues. I myself experienced this distortion on deep bass with the L3ks. AT replaced the defective driver w/o hassle (thanks ayt999!), but still it took time, effort and some $ to make it right.

So the question is, of the current w5000 owners, which of course will surpase L3K owner numbers,: Have you experience the low-frequency rattle on your cans?

I am looking to get some w5000, but fear going thru that again...

 

[sonic32]

I never had the problem on my L3000's or the W5000's either. Personally I have not read of any complaints for quite some time around here.

 

[Andrew_WOT]

Some units were affected, but it's so easily fixable that I wouldn't worry about that much.

 

[vcoheda]

what does it sound like?

 

[CD44hi]

http://www.head-fi.org/forums/1532297-post229.html
that's what I heard with the L3k..... from what I understand the w5000-phenomena was similar?

 

[piotr z]

yes I can sometimes hear this rattle - but in most of the casses those are distortion in recording - if You hear rattle on every track with very deep bass - You just have to long cables inside cup than need to be taped to transducer housing - and that's it - they need very special chain to sound good though - from my experience it's analog like sounding source ( C.E.C house sound for example) - full bodied amp. with some power ( they don't benefit alot from high power but improvement is cleary noticable ) - and clear silver IC ( like abbey road ref. for example ) - there may be some more combinations but that's what I found out with time

 

[mrarroyo]

My problem with the W5000 is that creaking/rattle that the headband ears make. I tried silicone based lubricant and it helped a bit. In the end I could not put up with it and sold the W5000.

 

[tk3]

I've heard no rattle problems on my W5000, and when Alex from APS recabled them, IIRC he said he knew what causes it and that it's an easy fix.

 

[Fitz]

Quote:

Originally Posted by piotr z /img/forum/go_quote.gif You just have to long cables inside cup than need to be taped to transducer housing - and that's it

This isn't the only cause of the AT rattle, just the one that's easy to fix.

 

[SK138]

There are at least two reasons for the rattle...the internal cable is least of it. The major issue (for me) was the way internal driver housing was mating with the baffle surface. When I had mine, I just placed very thin coat of blue-tak where the driver housing is screwed to the internal baffle frame and no more rattle. I had problem with left cup but not the right cup.

 

[jetstream]

I have not had any such problem with mine.

 

[Mher6]

IIRC, Alex at APureSound advised me of this issue on OLDER production era W5000s. Supposedly it has been fixed with all newer production W5000's.

 

[Andrew_WOT]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mher6 /img/forum/go_quote.gif IIRC, Alex at APureSound advised me of this issue on OLDER production era W5000s. Supposedly it has been fixed with all newer production W5000's.

When does the "new era" start?

 

[Drumonron]

I purchase mine from newegg about 3 months ago and I have the rattle-it happens very rarely on the lowest of frequencies.

 

[Andrew_WOT]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Drumonron /img/forum/go_quote.gif I purchase mine from newegg about 3 months ago and I have the rattle-it happens very rarely on the lowest of frequencies.

The fix instruction for the driver enclosure associated rattle. Hope Dave wouldn't mind me posting it.
Quote:

Originally Posted by nfusion770 Rattle fix ----------- -Anyway- if it appears, you will hear it right away. You take the pad off- just carefully pull at the edge until you see how it comes off- then its pretty much the same as taking off any other pad. -There are four silver screws that secure the cup to the headphone- take those off and the woodies can be removed. -Then on the other side, there are 3 tiny sliver screw that secure the driver housing to the driver- take those out and the driver housing comes free from the driver. - The housing is made up of 2 plastic pieces- the actual housing and a little ring shaped gasket- this is the problem. The ring vibrates against the plastic housing at about 70 hertz (I think). You need to put a few very small pieces of foam (1/8th inch and I used old grado flat pads) as a cushion between on the ridge of the housing and the ring and then screw it back together. If you leave it apart and play music, you can tell if it is still vibrating and adjust. I think I finally got it right when I made sure the part of the ring that faces the housing (as opposed to just the bottom) was cushioned with foam. It was a pretty easy fix, but it took me a while to understand exactly what the instructions were telling me.