Quote:
The capacitance you need for the diyMod refers to the high pass filter that forms when you connect your diyMod to your amplifier. When you connect a series capacitor to a parallel resistor to ground (in the amplifier, this resistor is the volume potentiometer), it forms a first order high pass filter, which allows passes mostly high frequencies while attenuating low frequencies from the signal. DC power is, all in all, 0 Hz, a low frequency. Capacitance is the amount of charge that the capacitor can hold, and in our use, you only need a small amount of capacitance in the diyMod. The equation governing the size of capacitor in a high pass filter characteristic is
C = 1/(2*pi*f*R)
where C is the capacitance in uF
f is the frequency in Hz
and R is the input impedance of the amplifier.
Basically, we want to filer out the DC while passing as much of the audio signal as necessary. Since humans can typically only hear between 20Hz and 20kHz, the highest lowest frequency you want to pass through is 20Hz, which we'll plug into the equation.
My explaination:
where f is cutoff frequency(meaning that the lower bound cutoff frequency point, since you are letting in high frequencies), and you are passing everything over 20Hz(cutoff frequency). By doing that you are filtering out DC(which has no frequency, f=0, since its not changing being constant), which is less than 20Hz, everything under 20Hz will not pass.
I guess EE school wasn't total waste of time.
With a -3db point of 20hz and a simple first order filter:
What is the attenuation of that circuit at 40hz?
What is the attenuation at 80hz?
Why are you being such a worthless turd after someone tried to help you with a first-year EE class grade (maybe they even teach it in the physics classes they make premeds go to?) question you posted. As Quisp pointed out there is a hidden problem that you did not necessarily consider. Thats what separates people who have done this sort of stuff from people who have only read about it. Perhaps he used the wrong terminology, but the problem he tried to warn you about is quite real.
Look, pretty pictures! Its like a coloring book, seems like your level.
With a 0.79uf cap, and a 10Kohm load the -3db point is indeed 20hz! Congratulations, you can do simple math.
Whats going on in the range up to 80hz? At 80hz there is ~0.5db attenuation, which is an audible ammount, in a totally audible range! There is also pretty wicked phase shift pretty much everywhere.
Here it is again with a 10uf cap and a 10Kohm load.
I feel the need to point out that you should look closely at the scale before commenting on the somewhat similar shape of the output response. If you were a little more polite to people who try to help you out maybe Id let you make that entry level mistake but nope.
Anyways, at 20hz with the 10uf cap you have 0.03db of attenuation, and only a few degrees of phase shift. Thats betterr than with the 0.79 cap the perfect equation would suggest.
Now that thats all out there, quisp is STILL right. There is more to life than going to 20hz without much phase shift or attenuation. It seems you have chosen to use an electrolytic cap in your LOD which isnt terrible, but many people would choose to compromise slightly and use a film cap of some sort in a size somewhere in the middle for better quality in the mids and up in exchange for some of the deeeepest bass.
Edited way after the fact:
I said that this was his design. LOL its someone else's design he was picking parts for.