Anyone using the Twisted Pear Joshua Tree?
Sep 23, 2007 at 2:58 PM Thread Starter Post #1 of 22

swt61

Dr. Wood
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I'm having a 4 channel β22 built, and it will be employing the Joshua Tree logarythmic stepped attenuator. I was just wondering if anybody has any experience with this little known stepper yet? I love the fact that the boards can be mounted at the back of the case for very short signal paths. One thing I was curious about is how the pot feels, does it feel like a normal stepper?
 
Sep 23, 2007 at 3:31 PM Post #2 of 22
Steve:

I have a two more balanced kits enroute to me and have built two (or three?) for other people. Here are a few things to note. You can only use resistor lines that have a large number of values available, and this eliminates a few resistor choices. The kit ships with the nice miniature 0.6W Phoenix MRS resistors and Dale 1/8W resistors will fit. This may not be an issue but something to note.

Of late, I have been annoyed with traditional steppers and am finding them not having enough resolution, especially when dealing with both my K340 and HD650s on the same project (before the K340s, I didn't really have this problem with say my Senns and Audio Technicas, so this "complaint" is definitely system / listener dependent). Now, even with just my Senns (and not taking into considering the AKGs) I miss the extra resolution... it's hard to go back. For example, I have one of the Singlepower steppers on my MPX3 SE, and it really sounds great, but can get annoying when I've rolled in some tubes for the K340 and then have like 2-3 clicks when using the Senns.

After using the JT, I really fell in love with the additional resolution it offers (i.e. 0.5dB increments by default, and more are possible with some reprogramming) and the flexibility. My opinion is that is that it is an upgrade over a normal stepper in fir and function. As for cost, remember it will run around $150 for a balanced setup (including the toroid). I also bought four channels of Dale resistors and I think it was around $20 (plus shipping if you don't have more stuff to buy from Mouser / Newark).

If you would like to try before you buy, I would be willing to excise one of mine and plug it into your project for a while, as they're pretty easy to pull out (just unscrew a few connectors, no soldering). Mini-meet?
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The only thing I could possibly think that one might have an issue with is the relay clicking, but once the project is cased up and racked (and enjoying your gear), it's hard to notice!
 
Sep 23, 2007 at 3:56 PM Post #3 of 22
Thanks for the speedy reply. I should elaborate...ATM the idea of me building such a project is out of the question. I do plan to start learning, and will start small and work my way up. fierce_freak is building the β22 for me, as well as a dual differential Twisted Pear Opus DAC w/Zapfilter discrete output stage (the "Epic Opus"). The β22 will be a four channel balanced configuration with dual σ22 power supplies in a separate chassis. He has already ordered the Joshua Tree, as I knew it was something I wanted to try. So basically I was just interested in how it performs, and your comments have given me a big grin to be sure!
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The DAC is almost finished, and when the amp is complete I'd love to have a mini meet! I can easily come to Austin. My Chocolate Donut MKIIs will be ready for trial then too.

Let's discuss it further when I have a better time frame.
 
Sep 24, 2007 at 3:06 AM Post #4 of 22
Well, gents, here is another reason for a mini-meet, with some additional Twisted Pear goodies... just have to figure all the hookup for baloanced and single ended (have Ti's diagram), and, of course, how to hook up the OPUS / Ballsie.

MillettDACMax.jpg
 
Sep 24, 2007 at 4:27 AM Post #6 of 22
Yeah, balanced B22 is also on my radar... IFF I could get over that lack of tubes thing... :)

Maybe a BamaSlammna... we'll see.
 
Sep 24, 2007 at 6:40 PM Post #7 of 22
Steve:

a few more things popped into my mind. The pot is not detented, meaning that it feels smooth across the whole range. Finally, depending on your knob, the shaft might be a bit short. Not problems, just a few things to note.
 
Sep 24, 2007 at 11:21 PM Post #8 of 22
Hey that's cool, I'm glad it's not detented. The knob I will be using is about an inch deep and 1 11/16" across, so that shouldn't pose a problem. It's a really cool solid aluminum knob by PS Audio.
 
Sep 26, 2007 at 2:25 PM Post #9 of 22
Quote:

Originally Posted by swt61 /img/forum/go_quote.gif
Hey that's cool, I'm glad it's not detented. The knob I will be using is about an inch deep and 2 1/4" across, so that shouldn't pose a problem. It's a really cool solid aluminum knob by PS Audio.


How thick is your front panel, and where is the set screw on the knob? The shaft length is .335". I'm not sure, but perhaps the part number is Alpha RV24AF-10-15R1-A5K (Mouser 31VJ305-F)? At least, it has the same dimensions as these. I need to find a good, wide knob as well, so if you run across another one, holler at me!
 
Sep 26, 2007 at 5:57 PM Post #11 of 22
My volume knob is a little unusual. The set screw is accessed from the back of the knob, leaving a nice clean look. The set screw is at a 45 degree angle, and you must drill a hole next to the shaft hole to be able to attach the set screw. The knob is 1 11/16" across though, so the hole would be easily covered. The faceplate is about 1/8" I believe, but I'll be making my own wooden faceplates once the amp, power supply and DAC arrive (they all use the same case). I can easily set the pot into the back of the faceplate to the depth I need. The set screw is about 3/16" - 1/4" deep into the shaft hole.



 
Sep 26, 2007 at 9:30 PM Post #14 of 22
Yeah, if you didn't know about the hidden set screw it could be an exercise in frustration. I can picture some poor guy with a little wheel puller, cussin' and wondering why in heck some idiot used epoxy.
 
Sep 26, 2007 at 9:51 PM Post #15 of 22
Quote:

Originally Posted by pabbi1
Well, gents, here is another reason for a mini-meet, with some additional Twisted Pear goodies... just have to figure all the hookup for baloanced and single ended (have Ti's diagram), and, of course, how to hook up the OPUS / Ballsie.


Is that a balanced Millett Hybrid with dual-differential OPUS? It'd be helluva setup!

Why do you need two Dual Supply Modules since you are not using Ballsie?
 

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