[steinba]

I admit that I'm a total noob. All my solder ponts go grey and dull as they cool off. Nothing like the shiny ones my more savvy friend manages.

I try to take care to make everything still and steady while soldering. I have problems with it, but I also try to heat the component leads and to melt the solder on those, and not on the solder pen tip.

I guess I can't blame the equipment either, so HELP! What am I doing wrong? Do I need to reflow everything until it'snice and shiny, or can my lackluster handywork still be OK?

 

[Bombyx]

If your solder happens to be lead-free, dullness is normal, have you checked that ?

 

[Edwood]

Eutectic solder is my favorite to avoid bad joints. But then again, I love lead in my solder.

 

[steinba]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bombyx /img/forum/go_quote.gif If your solder happens to be lead-free, dullness is normal, have you checked that ?

When you mention it; one of these rolls might just be. It's AIM Solder SAC305/Glow Core.

Is that bad?

 

[JamesL]

Yes, I do believe the SAC305 is a lead-free solder.

 

[Edwood]

YOu should be fine, the solder is completely liquifying when you melt it, right? Lead-free needs more heat.

 

[steinba]

My other stuff is also lead free, it seems. 99.3% tin and 0.7% copper.

Yeah. I noticed that it took a long time to melt.

I'm gonna leave it as it is, then, and hope the training projects (a crossfeed and a TREAD) work, even though the joints look cold.

Better get some 63/37 percent, then.

 

[ericj]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bombyx /img/forum/go_quote.gif If your solder happens to be lead-free, dullness is normal, have you checked that ?

well, unless you get one of the metalurgies that turns black.

 

[Tridacnid]

Fixed

 

[steinba]

Yeah! No wonder it's expensive, huh!

Sorry. I'll edit it.

 

[divideby0]

Quote:

Originally Posted by steinba /img/forum/go_quote.gif Yeah! No wonder it's expensive, huh! Sorry. I'll edit it.

Yep, ditch the nasty lead-free emo stuff. I produces nasty-looking fillets and never wets as well as the leaded variety. I inspect electronic components for a living and the top-shelf stuff (military, medical, etc) always use leaded solder, because it's better.

 

[steinba]

Will this be OK:

24-6337-8809 Kester Solder, Fluxes & Accessories

Or the same (?) from Digikey? (Im really just adding this URL for my own reference.)

Digi-Key - KE1109-ND (Kester Solder - 24-6337-0018)

 

[John E Woven]

The first one looks decent; I looked it up and it does have lead.

 

[lacrossebowe8]

Either of those work fine, I believe it is what I use. Unless you are ordering stuff from mouser or digikey anyway, check marketek, I think I paid 16 dollars instead of 30 there.

 

[srserl]

I use this 63/37 solder and it works well and doesn't cost a fortune.

Scott