Yep, its definitely worth putting together.
Other amps are Little Dot 2, LD MkIII, revmh millet, millet max, original master, DIY ECL82 amp - after that some portable stuff for on the go. Cans are HD650s, K501s and k701s, ER6i.
I know its not an exhaustive list!
On the DC offset issue: I think I was making a mountain out of a molehill in a way. Just like the millet, there is a DC offset at turn-on, which rapidly drops. With no headphones plugged in this remains about 20mV or so. Plug in some cans and it drops to zero right away.
I've spoke to John Broskie about this. His explanation is that:
What happens is that the electrolytic capacitors leak a small current which against the 10k terminating resistor ends up equaling a fairly big voltage. But that same amount of current against 32 or 300 ohms makes for a 32/10k or 300/10k as much voltage offset.
He talks about using a jack like some musicians use where when nothing is plugged in the tip and ring are shorted to ground. This would dissipate the DC quickly. He says that instead of using a short directly to ground to use say a 10R instead.
Of course you could just put in a e12 delay too.
Overall the build was pretty easy. I recommend using the tread from tangent - it simplifies so much (or one of linear power one supplies off ebay). There are a good few parts to buy - it probably isn't the cheapest one to build, but it is good! BTW he recommends panasonic FM series for C4 bypassed with a polystyrene.
Anyone else out there doing one of these? You get a full function preamp along with a headphone amp too. SQ from the pre is excellent - I can speak on this as this is the second one I've built and it will take on any comers. The headphone amp sounds great to my ears, but I would like a little more time to compare it to say, the max.
Fran