[arexxk]

Hi guys, first post here.
 

[size=small]I recently purchased a pair of Aiaiai Tracks, which I consider, somewhat expensive headphones. Then, I broke them. The cord snagged on my knee and pulled right out of the middle Y-connector. I always sort of felt that the track's cable was awkwardly designed and way too long, so[/size] [size=small]I am currently pursuing a way to repair them that would also improve where I felt the original design lacked.[/size]​

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[size=small]I posted the full description (with images) here: [/size][size=small]http://geekhack.org/showthread.php?31944-CALLING-ALL-MODDERS!-repairing-and-modding-headphones[/size]​

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My current dilemma is figuring out how to disassemble each ear cup without forcing it (there doesn't seem to be any screws), and I was hoping someone had already tried it and had instructions. Other than that, I want to try to solder either 3.5 or 2.5mm jacks into the ear cups, like the Grado mod but I'm not sure if I have enough space. Since I consider this forum probably the best place to get advice on modding headphones, any pointers or alternatives would be greatly appreciated!​

 

 

[eskimoo]

Seems impossible IMO, nothing is impossible 

I also got this problem with AKG ultraportable like K414p or K24p. They have no screws. It glued.
Unless you use force & have strong glue to glue it back. Otherwise will become junk.
 
I found on that the construction is a snap-on, with little glue. So it can be snapped back, with / without adding little glue 

 

[rhalf]

This is how you do it:
1.Take the sponges off
2. take the driver out by cutting the glue with a knife and some prying
 

 
3 The rest you'll figure out yourself
 

 
Some tips:
- The glue used in this case coesn't react to high temperatures. You need to cut through it
-The driver has cheap abs housing so try to not put too much stress on it
- white spots can be cured with 200*C hot air which will help the plastic structure merge back.
- If you cause the diaphgram to bend, then warm up these spots with a quick blow at 100*C. It will quickly warm up the air under the diaphgram and it should pop back.
- Fortunately there's no snap-on parts. Just the glue on a driver and those three screws underneath.
- If you want to perform a recable, then lower left contact on the photo is ground and the upper right is signal.

 

[arexxk]

Hey rhalf,
 
Thanks for responding after such a long time passing. I was starting to think that I was the only one who owned a pair of tracks. I've just recently disassembled the set and it seems that the right ear driver plays music flawlessly, but the left one doesn't seem to be responding. I tried measuring the resistance across the two terminals on that driver but it doesn't seem like it's making a connection. I'm starting to get worried that I might have damaged something while desoldering the original wires off of it. But then I remembered that I have the version of tracks with the mic and was thinking that I might not be connecting the wires in the correct configuration? Do you have a suggestions?

 

[rhalf]

Hi,
Glad you didn't throw your pair away
If you measured the driver directly on it's terminals when they weren't soldered to the cables just yet, then you did it right. You could possibly cut the tiny wires from the coil when you were pulling the driver from the cup. 

 

[arexxk]

Quote:

Hi,
Glad you didn't throw your pair away
If you measured the driver directly on it's terminals when they weren't soldered to the cables just yet, then you did it right. You could possibly cut the tiny wires from the coil when you were pulling the driver from the cup. 

If I did accidentally cut the tiny wires from the coil, do you have any suggestions on how I might fix that? 

 

[rhalf]

Nothing comes to my head other then soldering another tiny wire to the part that's connected to the coil. Might be challenging.