[Kdot]

Well, I was concerned too when I started. I also did some Amazon DIY radio kits to practice (I was a complete novice too).

Good that I learned few posts above how to properly solder and wait until the tin goes inside the hole. But I would suggest, don't overdo, do in the best way you can, and that's it. For the next amplifier you will be better, eh eh.

As for the sound change, maybe I got the impression that I lost a bit of dynamics. Cannot say for sure, but I can guarantee that even if you do modest soldering, you will be surprised with the result!

Another hot tip (pun intended) is to tin your soldering tip before storing (keeps them for oxidizing), 40 second video on it:

It had been a while since I had soldered when I did my aegis so I had to refresh myself!

Here are some more soldering tips:

When I was soldering my transformers I had to apply heat for a bit before the varnish came off, but once it did I was able to sponge it off my soldering tip.
Also a little bit of flux paste helped. If what you are soldering to has oxidized or is dirty you can apply flux to help clean it and get the solder flowing.
This is a good short video on using flux,

A little solder on the tip can also help get the solder flowing to your joints if it has a rosin core (mild flux) which most do.

Edit: Also congrats on fixing the humming!

 

[mchuckp]

Another hot tip (pun intended) is to tin your soldering tip before storing (keeps them for oxidizing), 40 second video on it:

It had been a while since I had soldered when I did my aegis so I had to refresh myself!

Here are some more soldering tips:

When I was soldering my transformers I had to apply heat for a bit before the varnish came off, but once it did I was able to sponge it off my soldering tip.
Also a little bit of flux paste helped. If what you are soldering to has oxidized or is dirty you can apply flux to help clean it and get the solder flowing.
This is a good short video on using flux,

A little solder on the tip can also help get the solder flowing to your joints if it has a rosin core (mild flux) which most do.

Edit: Also congrats on fixing the humming!

Thanks for those tips and specifically the potential for needing flux for the transformers as I'm getting ready to start that part. Maybe I should order some just to have.

In the video you linked about flux, at the end he mentioned using isopropyl alcohol to clean off excellent flux. Any of you do that or just leave it? I have a few spots but I wouldn't call it "bad".

 

[Kdot]

Thanks for those tips and specifically the potential for needing flux for the transformers as I'm getting ready to start that part. Maybe I should order some just to have.

In the video you linked about flux, at the end he mentioned using isopropyl alcohol to clean off excellent flux. Any of you do that or just leave it? I have a few spots but I wouldn't call it "bad".

I didn't feel the need to clean up any of my flux residue (didn't have huge spots anyways), I think it matters more for surface mount soldering.

 

[ScornDefeat]

As promised, spent some time listening to the new Dan Clark Audio E3 on my Aegis and evaluating the combo. Happy to share some thoughts on the potential synergy, all of the following is with respect to Lo-Z output.

Firstly, the E3 is a very competent headphone. Well-built, comfortable (a little heavy but ergonomics make up for it), and strong technical performance. It definitely avoids the pitfalls I've come across with closed-backs (uneven bass, weird timbre, unnatural staging). Due to the sensitivity + slighly-under-avergage impedance, its not the easiest headphone to drive/find amp synergy for, although certainly not as difficult as others. It's a very worthy headphone, especially at the price point.

I am happy to report that, for my tastes, the E3 + Aegis combo is a complete winner. On SS (demoed on Chord), E3 leans fairly neutral with a little warmth in the low-end, smooth treble and respectable tonality. Dynamics and impact are above-average (superior to Stealth, by quite a bit), although not class-leading. Aegis interacts very well here; what I noticed was an increase in bass impact, a touch more overall warmth to the sound signature, and some of that "holographic" magic in the staging capabilities. While I need more time with E3 on both Aegis and SS set-ups, I might venture to say already that E3 shines best with a tube amp like Aegis.

Briefly listened on Hi-Z and, surprisingly, it wasn't terrible like I've heard with other cans below 100 ohms. That said, bass was a bit too loose and bloated for my taste on Hi-Z, not my preference.

Aegis (Lo-Z) + DCA E3 is for my tastes and something worth serious consideration for Planar fans looking for a closed-back.

 

[khaine1711]

Thanks for those tips and specifically the potential for needing flux for the transformers as I'm getting ready to start that part. Maybe I should order some just to have.

In the video you linked about flux, at the end he mentioned using isopropyl alcohol to clean off excellent flux. Any of you do that or just leave it? I have a few spots but I wouldn't call it "bad".

There are some ways to do away with the varnish, I've experiment a lot but I'm not quite sure which is the best:

1. Turn up the heat (around 400 Celsius degree) and wait for the varnish to melt. Took a bit and lots of fume go up (smell bad, not sure if toxic). If placed too long I fear one may displace the pin/tiny eyelet. Quite messy since the burnt varnish looks like dirt marks on your joints.

2. Stock solder on the tip and transfer them to the pin - it may seem like the solder is not sticking to the pin at first, but after 1-2 sec everything melts quickly. For my case the solder inside the big header pin mixes with Cardas solder to form a silvery powdery surface - I've asked around and some says it's due to the solder on the transformer pin being silver lead-free.

3. Scrape off with a hobby/surgeon knife - not recommended, took too long and you may scratch your hands/the pin.

4. Put some soldering paste (I used white, sticky, no-clean BGA paste but I suspect any flux/paste would do) on the pin. In this method, the varnish melts and flows to the bottom of the header pin. A lot less fume than #1 since the varnish does not boil & evaporate.

In the end I use method #4 and drain the stock solder on the big pin then fill them with Cardas. Method #1 and #2 works fine for my main transformer, I redid them anyway since #4 looks prettiest ...

 

[khaine1711]

Quick update, I found ways to expedite shipping of a transformer housing from China. Tooks me 5 days, the transformer looks not as pristine as my other ones and comes with Torx screw instead of Phillips screw. So I assembled the amplifier and run some test, my results are as follow (left - right channel):

245 - 248vdc (JJ EL34)
235 - 235vdc (Sylvania 6sl7)
2.616 - 2.458vdc (JJ Gz34)
10.6 - 9.57vdc

I just had time to check for noise & hum before going to bed. Sacrificial lambs ... ahem, test headphones were AD2000 & HD800... no noise or hum even at max volume! Quite impressive feat especially with the AD2000. For fun I tried my OG HE6 briefly (with some Verdi's Requiem) - it's pretty damn impressive! And I haven't plug in my 5691 & and Mullard gz34 yet ...

One thing I did notice was if one deliberately turns the impedance knob in a slow motion, you could hear some static/cut out in the when turning the knob - no noise when knob in position though. My Icon Audio Hp8 with rotary switch for impedance selector also exhibits this behavior ... and I thought they are being cheap with the switch xD.

I'm off to bed. Hopefully I'll have more time to play with it in the next few weeks (and take better pics).

 

[Gulipan]

Still going slowly with this build, trying to find some spare time whenever I can.

I received these yesterday. Thanks to @mattiastomas for the inspiration. Seemed like a very sensible choice to start messing with the amp and getting to know its traits before going crazy with the tube rolling.

 

[henrix]

just got the Brimar 5r4gy and tried it yesterday and today and it really made my Atrium shine, I did preferred my Atrium Closed before .. tube rolling is fun

 

[Toonartist]

just got the Brimar 5r4gy and tried it yesterday and today and it really made my Atrium shine, I did preferred my Atrium Closed before .. tube rolling is fun

It's a great tube, both sound and looks... love it with the AC as well!

The Aegis is a tube rollers delight... Enjoy

 

[henrix]

It's a great tube, both sound and looks... love it with the AC as well!

The Aegis is a tube rollers delight... Enjoy

I also have a pair Mullard EL38 that I haven’t tried yet.. what’s the difference between EL39 in your opinion?

 

[Toonartist]

I also have a pair Mullard EL38 that I haven’t tried yet.. what’s the difference between EL39 in your opinion?

I'd say the EL39 are a bit warmer in sound, richer in tone... not sure whether that's because there's more bass or less top end compared to the EL38's. I think it comes down to synergy between rectifier and input tubes as well. Getting the right balance to suit the source chain and headphones.

I have a soft spot for big soundstage in terms of depth and layering so I often go with the EL38. That extra top end on the EL38 gives it more air and detail. I would add that if you have a bright system, it may need something like the Brimar 5R4GY to pull it back a bit while the Mullard GZ34 maybe a bit hot... but that maybe a preference thing!

Edit, I would add that the internals of the EL37, EL38 & EL39 are all very similar so each tube is a subtle tweak rather than a radical difference. Apparently, the EL38 is derived from EL37 but with a reinforced cathode and screen for use with TV sets. So It's probably quite a robust tube!

 

[mattiastomas]

Still going slowly with this build, trying to find some spare time whenever I can.

I received these yesterday. Thanks to @mattiastomas for the inspiration. Seemed like a very sensible choice to start messing with the amp and getting to know its traits before going crazy with the tube rolling.

Personally I felt that this set of tubes was a good starting point. And sounds pretty dang good! Enjoy!

 

[khaine1711]

New production Genalex is very good indeed, I did choose Genalex Kt88 as my stock tubes but the local vendor only takes order of them in quad so I had to live with JJ EL34 instead.

Still burning in my amp with the metal can 6SC7, no tubes glow but they sound quite interesting, a tad bit of sparkly timbre similar to the beryllium driver of verite/utopia. In the last few days, those metal can 6sc7 have develop some intermittent static noise, hopefully it will go away on its own as these are the cleanest 6sc7 I could find (others look like they have seen a few wars...)

 

[mchuckp]

I'd say the EL39 are a bit warmer in sound, richer in tone... not sure whether that's because there's more bass or less top end compared to the EL38's. I think it comes down to synergy between rectifier and input tubes as well. Getting the right balance to suit the source chain and headphones.

I have a soft spot for big soundstage in terms of depth and layering so I often go with the EL38. That extra top end on the EL38 gives it more air and detail. I would add that if you have a bright system, it may need something like the Brimar 5R4GY to pull it back a bit while the Mullard GZ34 maybe a bit hot... but that maybe a preference thing!

Edit, I would add that the internals of the EL37, EL38 & EL39 are all very similar so each tube is a subtle tweak rather than a radical difference. Apparently, the EL38 is derived from EL37 but with a reinforced cathode and screen for use with TV sets. So It's probably quite a robust tube!

Do the EL37,EL38, or EL39 require an adaptor? The Aegis BOM doesn't specify. I'm doing my damnest to not order any more tubes until I get my Aegis done and and try the tubes that I have to see what I feel could be better. I have Atrium Open. Just installed the PCB so still a ways to go.

Currently have the following to try when I get it up and running:
Power - Genelax KT88 (new prod), RCA 6V6 GT/G
Rectifier - RCA 5R4GY, Westinghouse 5R4GYB
Input - Tung Sol 6SL7 (new prod)

 

[AnyDave]

Do the EL37,EL38, or EL39 require an adaptor? The Aegis BOM doesn't specify. I'm doing my damnest to not order any more tubes until I get my Aegis done and and try the tubes that I have to see what I feel could be better. I have Atrium Open. Just installed the PCB so still a ways to go.

Currently have the following to try when I get it up and running:
Power - Genelax KT88 (new prod), RCA 6V6 GT/G
Rectifier - RCA 5R4GY, Westinghouse 5R4GYB
Input - Tung Sol 6SL7 (new prod)

The EL37 don't, but the EL38 and EL39 do need adapters.

EL37 are quite expensive these days. I (unfortunately) don't have a pair of those, but I've got a couple of pairs of EL38 and that's what in there now.