[DrewWaits]

Hi HF, I have come upon a need of variable length cables, and I decided soldering would be a good skill to master. So I break this down into a bullet list of all the questions I have about DIY cables that I haven't already found out through the DIY Article. So I would appreciate it if anyone that responds be a clear and thorough response with links to whatever product, thread, site, etc. Don't feel compelled to answer every question yourself, just be thoughtful and thorough on what you answer. Assume I know there bare minimum about soldering in general and cable creation.
 
For these questions, assume I'm using it for a standard 3.5mm to 3.5mm cabling.
 
1) What exactly is the correct type of Oxygen Free Copper Cables am I needing to buy. I have been lead to believe that anything that is at the level of "adequate" is perfectly fine when it comes to audio uses. I've been given types of wire, and the brands, but no actual models. So is something like Canare L-2T2S what I am looking for?
 
2) How many cables should I use. A cable my buddy made for my V-MODA M80 and it has 4 cables, two copper and two silver (I believe its two silver cables, I don't know what else it would be) and I don't know the purpose of all of it. Is it Left and Right and Two grounds in that case? Is there benefits in using more than three cable? Again, I'm new to all this.
 
3) Is there an distinct benefit to using braided versus straight cabling. My aforementioned friend told me a lot of the art is how you braid or twist the cable. How true is this?
 
Thanks to everyone for letting me know things I probably could have dug for but need help deciphering.

 

[DrewWaits]

Bumpity Bump. Halp Plox.

 

[DrewWaits]

Last Bump. 

 

[micmacmo]

If you're new to DIY cables, why not start cheap and cheerful? I'd recommend using something like Canare L-4E5C quad microphone cable. Once you strip off the outer coating, the shielding and the paper and strings, you'll have four wires that are spiralled around each other. You can leave it spiralled or braid it, but it's better to avoid leaving them as straight runs. (In either case, use heat shrink at either end to keep the wires from unravelling.) 
 
According to wikipedia, here's the reason for using twisted cable (and I think the same rationale applies to braided cable)

• Twisted pair cabling is a type of wiring in which two conductors of a single circuit are twisted together for the purposes of canceling out electromagnetic interference from external sources; for instance, electromagnetic radiation from unshielded twisted pair cables, and crosstalk between neighboring pairs.
  
  

 
In most single-ended headphones (if it has a regular TRS headphone connector with three sections (tip, ring and sleeve), it's single-ended), then you can get away with three wires (one each for the left driver, right driver and ground). But each driver ultimate needs to connect to the common ground, so it's often easier to use four wires.
 
For simplicity, if you're making a Y cable that splits and runs into each cup, it's easier to use four wires. If you're making a cable that goes into one cup and then uses wires that run through the headband to the other cup, three wires are easier.  
 
All copper or all silver makes the most sense to me. Not sure if there's any advantage to using silver for the + and copper for the ground (or vice versa). 

 

[DrewWaits]

My intentions are essentially to make a small 6 inch interconnect with one right angle 3.5mm and a straight 3.5mm. Its just to go between my MotoX or my Sansa Clip to my Ibasso DAC. I'm not sure whether I'd braid it or not. A couple resultant questions I had are:
 
1) It sounds like a stupid question to me, but I shall ask it anyway. After I strip them down totally as you said, through the paper and shielding, I will have 4 wires in tiny rubber coating with multiple colors? Or will it be 2 colors, 2 of each, and if so, how to I differentiate on both ends, to maintain that the left is attached to the left node on both side?
 
2) Given my application, it sounds like three wires would be best, one for left, one for right, and one for ground on the shell, correct?
 
3) On the topic of durability, this will be a cable nearly bent in half connecting two devices in my pocket, do you think braided or twisted will offer different flexibility benefits. On a side note, which do you think will offer better flexibility and durability, tech-flex or heat-shrink covering?
 
Thanks so much for your answers.

 

[uncola]

1) What exactly is the correct type of Oxygen Free Copper Cables am I needing to buy. I have been lead to believe that anything that is at the level of "adequate" is perfectly fine when it comes to audio uses. I've been given types of wire, and the brands, but no actual models. So is something like Canare L-2T2S what I am looking for?
 
2) How many cables should I use. A cable my buddy made for my V-MODA M80 and it has 4 cables, two copper and two silver (I believe its two silver cables, I don't know what else it would be) and I don't know the purpose of all of it. Is it Left and Right and Two grounds in that case? Is there benefits in using more than three cable? Again, I'm new to all this.
 
3) Is there an distinct benefit to using braided versus straight cabling. My aforementioned friend told me a lot of the art is how you braid or twist the cable. How true is this?
 
For a 3.5 to 3.5mm stereo interconnect you'll need 3 conductors, left/right/shield.  normally people get a cable that has 2 conductors and a foil shield which they twist together to use as a third conductor and solder it to the shield, but if you're going to strip off the outer pvc jacket you can't use the foil shield that way, it will unravel.  So I'd look for 3 or 4 conductor bulk wire.  You can use 2 conductors for shield if you get a 4 conductor cable.  Usually they are different colors so you can keep track and match both ends when soldering, if not it's best to use a multimeter and do a continuity test before soldering to make sure you're soldering the correct conductor to both sides.  This cable is cheap by the foot and would work to strip and braid http://www.redco.com/Canare-L-4E5C.html
I wouldn't worry about purity of copper or getting anything silver plated, it's very controversial whether it makes any difference.
 
braiding is only for looks and usually you have to remove any shielding to do it so it's arguably bad for sound quality.  The braiding adds some resistance to line noise but I think over short distances like an interconnect it's not proven to help.  If you plan on sleeving after baiding, definitely use techflex or paracord instead of heatshrink.. heatshrink is not flexible at all and techflex or paracord will look much nicer.  You can also get soft nylon multifilament.  Definitely ask someone before you order the techflex to make sure you get the right size for your wires..  ask on the diy cable questions thread.. actually you should probably ask all your questions there.  Making DIY cables is fun but not really a cost savings thing.  If you want to skip learning to solder you can get a straight 3.5 to right angled 3.5mm interconnect cheap from some sellers on aliexpress or a site like http://ab-system.hk/index.php
 
http://www.head-fi.org/t/676402/diy-cable-questions-and-comments-thread

 

[micmacmo]

  My intentions are essentially to make a small 6 inch interconnect with one right angle 3.5mm and a straight 3.5mm. Its just to go between my MotoX or my Sansa Clip to my Ibasso DAC. I'm not sure whether I'd braid it or not. A couple resultant questions I had are:
 
1) It sounds like a stupid question to me, but I shall ask it anyway. After I strip them down totally as you said, through the paper and shielding, I will have 4 wires in tiny rubber coating with multiple colors? Or will it be 2 colors, 2 of each, and if so, how to I differentiate on both ends, to maintain that the left is attached to the left node on both side?
 
2) Given my application, it sounds like three wires would be best, one for left, one for right, and one for ground on the shell, correct?
 
3) On the topic of durability, this will be a cable nearly bent in half connecting two devices in my pocket, do you think braided or twisted will offer different flexibility benefits. On a side note, which do you think will offer better flexibility and durability, tech-flex or heat-shrink covering?
 
Thanks so much for your answers.

 
1) Depends on the cable, but with the Canare quad cable I mentioned above, you'll get two white and two blue wires, if memory serves me. To differentiate them, you'll need a multimeter to test which ends which. Alternatively, you can trace one wire from end to end....not recommended.
 
2) Yes, I think so.
 
3) Pocketability is always a challenge. You could leave the cable untouched (with shielding and PVC in place) for maximum durability, but only so-so flexibility. Braiding would give the most flexibility, but probably limited durability. As mentioned, heat shrink is not flexible, but works well at either end (near the connectors) as strain relief. Because I'm a tightwad, I use paracord sheathing to cover my cables. It's dirt cheap and comes in lots of colours at a craft, outdoor or surplus stores. (The 550 stuff is good for covering 3 or 4 wires braided tightly or twisted. The 350 is good for two wire cables.)

 

[DrewWaits]

I think you guys helped me with my decision. I need the flexibility so I'll most definitely strip all the wires and braid them. I'm more worries about the danged thing staying plugged in while in jeans, and a a right angle 3.5mm to another right angle is just too much width. Especially with the fact that both the input and output are on the same side of the Ibass D2-Boa. The paracord sounds like the way to go. I'm glad it's gauged, and I really appreciate you guys' analysis. Time to make a shopping list and figure out where I'll be doing my tinkering 

.
 
Mad props to Micmacmo and Uncola. You rock!