[comiconart]

Great, thanks - good to know! Would the NAD 7140 be considered “vintage” in this respect..? Late 80s, so not sure where it falls

 

[Monsterzero]

Nah...you want the silver faced pre-1980s era gear...After that you get into the BPC(black plastic crap) era.

you might look and see if you can turn off/on the built-in pre amp of your turntable. Chances are the receivers phono section will sound better than whats inside your turn table...so for clarity sake...

Use phono input on receiver if you can turn off the phono pre amp
Use AUX input if you use the phono pre-amp.

 

[comiconart]

I just re-read your first post where you say:



Does your turntable have RCA outs or just USB? If it has RCA you need not worry about the phono stage of the receiver. It should work fine going into the AUX input of any receiver,assuming again that it has RCA outs.

Yes, thanks - RCA outs

From your previous post: would the NAD 7140 be considered “vintage” in this sense (good headphone jack and true stereo sound, etc)? Late 80s, so not sure if that qualifies...or if I should be looking to a 70s Marantz instead, etc

Really appreciate your help!

 

[Monsterzero]

Nah...you want the silver faced pre-1980s era gear...After that you get into the BPC(black plastic crap) era.

From your previous post: would the NAD 7140 be considered “vintage” in this sense (good headphone jack and true stereo sound, etc)? Late 80s, so not sure if that qualifies...or if I should be looking to a 70s Marantz instead, etc

 

[comiconart]

Just saw your other post.

Yes, the pre-amp on the turntable can be disabled if using a receiver that has one on board, etc

 

[Monsterzero]

Theres some decent deals to be had on Sansui 771s right now on eBay...no affiliation. Do your homework on it and the seller(s) but its a very nice mid-level receiver that will be more than enough for your ELACs and HD650s.

 

[Monsterzero]

Sent you a PM

 

[ProtegeManiac]

This is daunting.

Let me try to make the selection process easier. You already have a source choice, ie the TT with a built in preamp.

You also have your headphone choice pinned down.

Next step, speakers. How large is the listening area? Can you position your chair and the speakers all at least 1m away from the rear and side walls?

I. If yes, then the next step is to pick a passive speaker (like the Elacs), and then we have to figure out how to power that and the headphones.
Option 1: Get any integrated amp for speakers that has a Tape Out, like some still not fully-digital sources only integrated amps from NAD or Rotel. Hook up the TT's preamp output to an input on the integrated amp (just double check that it has no built in phono preamp; if it does, just use any other analogue signal input), then try the headphones on the headphone output. If you like the sound or there's no headphone output, hook up a headphone amp - something like a Schiit Magni3 or if you're totally set on using only high impedance headphones, the Darkvoice DV336se, to the Tape/Rec Out. That just redirects the input signal and lets it pass through.

Option 2: Get a headphone amplifier with a preamp output like the Schiit Magni3 and a power amplifier for speakers (the ones with a ostly blank front panel because it's just the power amp circuit, no preamp/volume control, etc) like the Emotiva Bass-X 150 to drive the speakers. Hook up the TT's preamped output to the Magni3, then hook up the Magni3's preamp (ie volume control) output to the Bass-X 150's inputs. Volume control on either will be on the Magni3, but you have to unplug the headphone to tell it to send a signal to the speakers.

II. If no, the easier way to do this is to get a powered speaker like the Edifiers you were looking at, or something better (larger drivers, etc) and more importantly designed specifically for desktop/nearfield listening, like a KRK Rokit R5 or R6. Hook up the TT to the Magni3, then hook up the Magni3's preamp output to the inputs on each Rokit speaker. Volume control will be on the Magni3 (though you have to set the gain structure as the speakers each have gain controls) but again you have to unplug the headphones to enable the preamp output to the speakers.

 

[squee116]

I will say that, generally, the phono preamps in older vintage receivers are going to knock the socks off of integrated units in the turntable. The receiver will be able to handle the speakers (probably), the headphones (probably, though accounting for output impedance can be tricky), and act as your phono preamp, which is ideal, if you have the space. Worst case scenario, you get something like the PS Sprout, if you want an integrated unit. Buying separately isn't an awful idea either, but it does require keeping track of more stuff during the purchasing process.

I have bias toward 70s era Marantz and MAC units. I've personally recapped dozens of older Marantz receivers, and I think they sound great. A lot of it depends on the sound you're chasing though. Like was mentioned earlier, the Sansui's can be a bit warm, and I generally prefer neutral with a slight warmth. The Sansui 5000 was too warm for me.

If you haven't already gotten your speakers yet, I could recommend some cheap Dayton or Klipsch bookshelf speakers if they're used in a Nearfield setup. If you need to fill a larger space with volume, that may change things.

 

[comiconart]

I will say that, generally, the phono preamps in older vintage receivers are going to knock the socks off of integrated units in the turntable. The receiver will be able to handle the speakers (probably), the headphones (probably, though accounting for output impedance can be tricky), and act as your phono preamp, which is ideal, if you have the space. Worst case scenario, you get something like the PS Sprout, if you want an integrated unit. Buying separately isn't an awful idea either, but it does require keeping track of more stuff during the purchasing process.

I have bias toward 70s era Marantz and MAC units. I've personally recapped dozens of older Marantz receivers, and I think they sound great. A lot of it depends on the sound you're chasing though. Like was mentioned earlier, the Sansui's can be a bit warm, and I generally prefer neutral with a slight warmth. The Sansui 5000 was too warm for me.

If you haven't already gotten your speakers yet, I could recommend some cheap Dayton or Klipsch bookshelf speakers if they're used in a Nearfield setup. If you need to fill a larger space with volume, that may change things.

OK, thanks - I am discovering that there are more variables here than I initially thought. So - let me give a better rundown of exactly where I am at now, and you can let me know where I am going wrong, and what needs to be fixed here.

Initially I just wanted to play records. So, I bought a nice TT (U-Turn Orbit Plus w/ built-in Pluto pre-amp, Ortofon OM5E cartridge), and Edifier R1280T Powered bookshelf speakers. Easy enough...but then, decided I really wanted a nice set of headphones as well. Ended up going with Sennheiser HD 650's. As a result: Now looking for an amplifier that's neutral to slightly warm, with a great phono stage, that will also work well with my other components. And...since I am now looking at using a receiver, the built-in TT pre-amp is no longer necessary (but I believe it can just be turned off), and the powered Edifiers are no longer an option (and have since been replaced by ELAC Debut 2.0 B6.2's). So, current configuration:

U-Turn Orbit Plus TT
Ortofon OM5E Cartridge
ELAC Debut 2.0 B6.2 speakers
Sennheiser HD650 cans
Amp...?

Currently looking at the following options:

Pioneer SX-780
Sansui 881
Marantz PM5400

Not sure if this price is too high, but I love the fact that this one is fully restored and ready to go (and the seller may have some room with the "Best offer" option):
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Sansui-881-Stereo-Receiver-in-Excellent-Condition-Just-Serviced-Fully/153101155075?hash=item23a58a3b03:g:yM4AAOSwBd1bS-6C&_sop=16&_sacat=0&_nkw=sansui+881&_from=R40&rt=nc

Have also found good used options for the other two units as well (including an OO Pioneer SX-780 that has been very well cared for - that one is $175).

Finally, in terms of setup: This is going in a large(ish) basement office area - the room is rougly 15" x 30", and the stereo will be set up on one of the short walls, facing my desk which is at the other end of the room. I can get speaker stands and position them away from the wall if this is necessary for optimal sound. Just tell me what I need to do and I'll do it.

Thanks!

 

[Monsterzero]

I can get speaker stands and position them away from the wall if this is necessary for optimal sound. Just tell me what I need to do and I'll do it.

Your ELACs have a front firing bass port so no need to move them away from the wall,though you can if you wish.Heck you can even mount them to the wall if need be.

Youre on the right track.

 

[ProtegeManiac]

Finally, in terms of setup: This is going in a large(ish) basement office area - the room is rougly 15" x 30", and the stereo will be set up on one of the short walls, facing my desk which is at the other end of the room. I can get speaker stands and position them away from the wall if this is necessary for optimal sound. Just tell me what I need to do and I'll do it.

Experiment with it as it depends the walls' acoustic properties and also dispersion pattern (ie too wide and depending on toe in you'll get a lot of reflections off the rear wall; too little toe in, too much off the side walls; too narrow, and it'll be hard to find a sweet spot for a different reason). You need to be able to move it at least 1M from the walls unless you line all walls with acoustic material, but you can experiment. If soundstage depth doesn't suffer when moved closer to the rear wall or width doesn't when closer to the side walls (note that with side walls relative symmetry has more to do with, ie, one side closer to a corner than another against a mostly empty space would be more problematic than both at 0.25M away) then you can put them closer. You really just need the flexibility to be able to move them farther from the walls just in case they don't work well close to the walls. Otherwise move them closer, for example if it's a living room and that keeps them more out of the way.

Experiment with the seat position too since you can also get reflections behind you.

Your ELACs have a front firing bass port so no need to move them away from the wall,though you can if you wish.Heck you can even mount them to the wall if need be.

Port location isn't the only reason for staying away from the walls. Sound still radiates out in all directions, otherwise if you're in an acoustically dampened room you could stand behind a speaker and not hear anything (because ie nothing will bounce off the walls opposite the speaker). Dispersion pattern differences between the tweeter and midwoofer will affect what frequencies are stronger from behind the speaker, as well as acoustic properties of the walls that may bounce or absorb, or bounce some frequencies more. Since wave force diminishes over distance, going farther from the wall makes for weaker soundwaves hitting the walls. Similarly, sitting right up against the wall behind the listener can also cause problems.

Of course, the response behind and to the rear sides of the speakers varies along with the walls' acoustic properties, so the key is to experiment but as much as possible there should be that option to move the speakers away from the walls (and/or line the walls with acoustic material, as with nearfield at home). Or rather, experiment farther away from the walls and move as close as possible until it starts altering the sound (or if the alteration is preferable to the listener then try even closer).

 

[squee116]

15" x 30"? Or 15' x 30'?
If you meant 15' x 30', that's actually a HUGE space. I don't know if ELAC is going to reach you clear across the 30' gap with the ideal sound, without tremendous amounts of power, and even then, I'd worry about damaging a driver. Most listening distances are half that, or less, and even then smaller drivers suffer without larger amp sections or possibly driving the speakers so hard they might get damaged.

One other thing you'll want to make sure of is that the turntable is as removed as possible from the sound of the speakers. The U-Turn isn't suspended, so you might get some wonkiness if the speakers are sending sound at your TT.

 

[buke9]

I would definitely get stands they can make a huge difference. Rule of thumb is you want the tweeters at eye level if at all possible. Had some Monitors just sitting on a desk when I dabbled in recording and made a pair of stands about 6 in high and it made a huge difference in the sound.

 

[Monsterzero]

15" x 30"? Or 15' x 30'?

Im guessing he pulled a Spinal Tap here,either that or he lives in a small shoe box