[chych]

I find it annoying because I paid more for an inferior product

(MSB Link 2)

Actually I think I'll stop by Sam ash tomorrow and pick up an Art DI/O... see what all this fuss is about. Then worry about the power upgrades...

I am still unconvinced in how digital cables matter... I have tried various cables, from freebie cables, to AR digital cables, to Radioshack cables, and to Cardas cables, and have not found any differences at all.

 

[dhwilkin]

Well, the digital cable mattered in my setup. A Belden DIY digital cable sounded more engaging than another DIY design (forget which one, as I bought both of them... I'm lazy). The other DIY design, while noticeably more resolving, was also more distant. W/ my Senn 580s, that proved too distant. My interconnects happened to be Belden DIY as well, so my guess is there was some sort of synergy going on.

I'd really like to try that Art DI/O. However, if I get a new DAC, I want a substantial improvement. In most reviews, the DI/O has some trouble w/ complex passages. I'd really like to know how it compares in that area w/ my MSB Link DAC II w/ Dan Wright mods.

 

[MooGoesTheCow]

Just wanted to post a little followup...

Man, this power cord rocks! Do a blind listening test on me...I guarantee I can tell the difference. The stock cord is now soooo muddy and boomy sounding compared to the Bolder. The Bolder lets me hear so much more deeply into the recording. Vocals, instruments, and everything in between are clearer, smoother, and as transparant as Harry Potter with his cloak of invisibility in tow.

This is not a minor change, folks. This is a significant upgrade now in the moo book of significant upgrades.

 

[Neruda]

well wayne, tell ya what: if I ever get the money to buy a decent hifi setup, I'll use your power cables for my equipment. If I can afford it

. Wait! How about you give me $3,000 and I'll buy the system along with your cables! It's win/win!

 

[Wayne1]

chych,

Let's take a closer look at what goes into a digital cable. A very important part is the connector. Most RCA plugs are not designed to work at high frequencies. The Canare RCA's were designed from the get go to work with video signals. They will easily pass a 200 mhz signal. They have been tested to 2 ghz. They are a high quality connector that uses crimp connections rather than solder. Solder WILL slow down the signal flow and introduce phase errors at higher frequencies.
The cable should also be designed to handle higer frequencies. It has to be a true 75 ohm coax. The insulation surrounding the center conductor is very important. Teflon is possibly the best insulation/dielectric available because it has a very quick charge/discharge cycle. A cable does act like a capacitor, having material between a ground connection and a signal. The more the material "holds" the signal, the sloppier the sounds. PVC is notorius for creating a boomy bass and smeared high end because it holds the signal for a long time (relatively speaking) and then releases it slowly. In looking at digital signals on a VERY expensive digital storage scope at Kimber Kable, they were able to analyze rise time of different cables. A rise time of 20-22 nanoseconds was considered very good. Quite a few digital cables were tested at over 40 nano seconds. Preventing ringing of the square wave is also a function of the dielectric with aids in clearer sound.
Finally the shielding of the cable comes into play. You do not want to have any outside source impose its signal on the digital signal. With all the RFI around, cell phones, wireless digital transmissions, remote controls, etc. the cable is under constant assault. Also, if there are unshielded power cords about, they are giving off all sorts of nasties. I use an external braided shield over the jacket. The cable I use also has a foil shield and a braided shield. I add a .01 low inductance capacitor at the load end to ground out the RFI while isolating the EMI.
There is quite a lot to be considered in designing a digital cable.

Hope this helps a bit,

Wayne

 

[chych]

Well, I got an Art DI/O!

Well, I am certainly impressed too! I'll let the unit break in a bit...

Question though Wayne, my unit seems to give me a crackle in the left when the red sample light is on (whatever that mode is)... is this normal? And when I dont have any lights on I get a lot of noise from my amp... any way of relieving this?

 

[Wayne1]

chych,

The best sound from the DIO seems to come from ext. sync mode (green light only). You may need to pull out the power plug now and then when you change modes or discs. The ART is very tempermental. It does reward the patient owner with some of the best sound around. Give it a week to break in.

Wayne

 

[chych]

Yep, just got the ext mode working, excellent

One problem though... the output is too loud! My amp isn't doing much 'work'. I'm thinking of getting attenuators... but those ICs you sell, do they reduce the output strength? If so, well, I'm interested... (power cord too).

Also, what power supply is being most commonly used? Are there any shielded ones out there?

 

[Wayne1]

chych,

I made the DI/O interconnects just for that problem I use a Neutrik gold plated 1/4" phone plug on the DI/O end and a Cardas RCA on the other end. In the RCA I build a voltage divider to drop the output from 7 volts to 2 volts. It is made form Holco and Dale/Vishay 1% metal film resistors. People that have used it seem to like it.

The stock power supply is okay if you pull the tube. Radio Shack has a 9 volt AC supply that a lot of people like part number 980-0900. Here is a post and thread about it and a certain digital cable

http://www.audioasylum.com/audio/dig...ges/27255.html

Let me know if I can help you,

Wayne

 

[Videoshielded]

Wayne, dhwilkin's listening experience proves out your cable forumlation theories. I built him the Belden DIY digital cable to which he refers, using Canare plugs and teflon-insulated 75 ohm Belden coax.

Interestingly enough, I've also been using DIY power cables made from the same stuff as Moo's from Bolder (though I use Neutrik Powercon connectors rather than IEC's) to great effect.

I love it when the DIY advice I get from the Cable Asylum turns out to work in application!