teus
New Head-Fier
- Joined
- Jul 7, 2014
- Posts
- 26
- Likes
- 13
I bought some Ninjaflex to experiment with. TPU is too stiff, while Ninjaflex is very flexible and stretchy. With my bare hands I'm unable to tear any print apart.Actually. It seems superior to standard rubber (and let alone plastic) strain reliefs since they seem more durable, stretchy and you can customize them exactly as you desire. Thicker prints get stiffer. I'm printing on a Prusa MK3S.
My AKG 242HD's broke the rubber strain relief. I can't buy the rubber piece separately, only with a new cable. The new cable is only sold in a few places in Europe, when I look online. I once inquired for a spare headband and a cable, shipping costs and "handling" were obnoxiously expensive. Now my paracord liner also fits through the strain relief, and my cable is pretty much "asshole-proof".
My KZ IEM's don't have a chin slider. Since they're over-ear I was hoping for them to stay put while cycling/jogging, with a 3D printed thingie. The slider has a Y-shape to offer a bit more friction when sliding. 2mm diameter worked for both braided cables (1.7mm dia) and smooth rubber cables (1.5mm dia, but with very grippy rubber). There's a fine split to slide the cable in. Everything gets held together with a piece of heatshrink, otherwise the cable can just slip out. I could try fusing the print together with a soldering iron, but that's messy.
My AKG 242HD's broke the rubber strain relief. I can't buy the rubber piece separately, only with a new cable. The new cable is only sold in a few places in Europe, when I look online. I once inquired for a spare headband and a cable, shipping costs and "handling" were obnoxiously expensive. Now my paracord liner also fits through the strain relief, and my cable is pretty much "asshole-proof".
My KZ IEM's don't have a chin slider. Since they're over-ear I was hoping for them to stay put while cycling/jogging, with a 3D printed thingie. The slider has a Y-shape to offer a bit more friction when sliding. 2mm diameter worked for both braided cables (1.7mm dia) and smooth rubber cables (1.5mm dia, but with very grippy rubber). There's a fine split to slide the cable in. Everything gets held together with a piece of heatshrink, otherwise the cable can just slip out. I could try fusing the print together with a soldering iron, but that's messy.
