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Yes and yes.But the parts selection was as the original only layed out like the Mad K version which was so sweet I could not resist.The batteries used are the type used in a home security system or to turn on flood lights in case of a fire with a simple charger (simple ? HAH ! notrhing is simple !
) mounted in a wood box from the local craft store.Big mama honking lead acid 12V/1200 AH
Polystyrene is no longer being made as a material period and that worldwide.
Just like with the move to lead free compliance certain things are considered not freindly to the environment so forced compliance is the way of things or you can not ship your product internationally.However,the recent "Pease Porridge" column (Bob Pease) in "Electrical Design" magazine came up with LCR Capacitors UK as a new production source (
www.lcrcapacitors.co.uk).
I used NOS silver micas from one of the surplus electronics firms in mine and the sonics balance well in my particular system.
As for the sonicaps that is where choice comes in but remember you want the tolerances as close as you can get them in a compensation network and especially so in the left channel/right channel parts matchup or your image will wander.No less than 2% matching and 5% tolerance.If you need to do the matchup yourself you will need a capacitor "null" testing device.An online search will turn up plans at one of the "gadget" sites or bouince me an email and i will direct you to one.What a null device does is just use elimination as the means to test rather than actually measuring which in a capacitor means "in circuit".Passive but capacitive/reactive so needs to be powered-up and in a circuit to be measured unlike the resistor.
Either method (Yahoo Group schemo or DIYAudio schemo) should be fine and at this price you could always make a version of each model,decide which you like best then make a gift of the other to someone
Not the supply though ! That is where your cost will be no matter how you go at it.Circuitry is mostly cheap until you stup up to triode gear but no way are the packaging and powering cheap if you want to have both good performance and not have to hide the actual device.
I have kluged up a few of Thorstens designs and I have to say he listens to music as the guide to his designs and his decisions fall in line with what i like so when i read something he posts I take notice.He also makes the point that when you deviate from his part selection you have in fact changed the design into another thing both tonally and as a design so have made it your own.another point I agree with.
Changing parts wholesale and thewn calling it the same as the original has no merit when it really is the combination that makes the end sound.Change one thing and you have changed the entire sound of the whole.that makes it a "new" design not a "tweeaked" version of the original.All good though.The "Y" in "DIY" takes precedence and in the end it is ourself we want to please.
TIP-I like wood whenever possible and it not only is cheap but easier to work than metal plus kinda self damping.Hobby/Craft store unfinished wood boxes are cheap and will work well but are kinda light so you will want to add some extra weight internally or weight the top externally to avoid microphonics.
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Thanks for the help on this. |
You got it man.I like giving something back to DIY which has treated me so good over very many years and if that means I can help someone get from A to B cool.
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Speaking of Hagerman, he also has the inverse RIAA network available for cheap. Very handy for testing. |
You are right Mark.I had forgottoen that one.Good addy.
Just for general info-the anti RIAA needs to also be very precise or what you end up with is a combination of errors.The Anit RIAA and the RIAA are complimentry equalisation networks but to measure a thing you need a standard and if that standard off then the measurement also has to be wrong by the amount of the error.Having said that I tune by ear and iuf it sounds good button the sucker up and use it instead of trying to get to some ideal that while it may measure great could end up sounding like crap !
All phono stages deviate from the ideal and that is why they all sound different (parts selection aside).The decision on where that deviation falls it what determines if a rewview of that stage is called "nuetral" but "lifeless" or "possibly colored" but "musical".
I'll take mine musical over on paper perfection any day..........
cheers
Tricky Rick........................longwinded as usual