[magicman2020]

I managed to catch the copper color better in the previous photo, but here is a front shot. The copper color is definitely deeper and more radiant than in this photo.

Congrats @leftside , I'm telling you the whole look with the copper , meters, glass, and tubes just hits the bullseye! Well done. I'm looking forward to some more sonic details because I know @A2029 stuff sounds every bit as good as it looks .

 

[UntilThen]

I’ve been listening for a couple of hours now with the LCD4. Things that spring to mind are hard-hitting, clarity and detail. Loving it so far. It might be a long night…

Only tried the CCS setting so far, but have changed the impedance to all 4 settings for the LCD4. The LCD4 loses control of the bass on lower impedance settings. It’s quite noticeable. Just goes to show how important it is to match your headphones with the correct amp.

LCD4 needs an amp with drive to make it sound great. Looks like Red Dwarf hits it off at the starting block and hard hitting, clarity and details will suit the Audeze to a T.

Let me know later how your Abyss respond to the amp.

 

[maxpudding]

The copper chassis looks awesome! Congratulations I am sure there would be many more great amps to come

 

[leftside]

I tried out the CCS/RES setting. Definitely noticed a difference. RES I found warmer, "dirtier" and boomier bass. I prefer the CCS setting, but will try the RES setting again in the future for sure. I will hear more tube differences through the RES setting.

Also noticed a difference when using the 30mA bias setting on tubes that can handle 60mA. It's not just the volume that increased. The tubes seemed to handle the music better and sounds were more coherent.

Here's a different look. This time with brown base tubes. I don't think I have anything new to report on the tubes I've used so far. Sonic and performance characteristics of tubes like Fivre 6SN7, Sylvania 6SN7 metal base (Sylvania 6J5 metal base are a far cheaper option - look for ones with similar construction to the 6SN7), MWT/Osram 6J5, Tungsol BGRP are pretty well known and sound no different in this amp. The bass on TS BGRP is still killer (and again similar construction 6J5 are well worth a try).

 

[cdanguyen08]

I tried out the CCS/RES setting. Definitely noticed a difference. RES I found warmer, "dirtier" and boomier bass. I prefer the CCS setting, but will try the RES setting again in the future for sure. I will hear more tube differences through the RES setting.

Also noticed a difference when using the 30mA bias setting on tubes that can handle 60mA. It's not just the volume that increased. The tubes seemed to handle the music better and sounds were more coherent.

Here's a different look. This time with brown base tubes. I don't think I have anything new to report on the tubes I've used so far. Sonic and performance characteristics of tubes like Fivre 6SN7, Sylvania 6SN7 metal base (Sylvania 6J5 metal base are a far cheaper option - look for ones with similar construction to the 6SN7), MWT/Osram 6J5, Tungsol BGRP are pretty well known and sound no different in this amp. The bass on TS BGRP is still killer (and again similar construction 6J5 are well worth a try).

That glow from the meters with that Chassis!

 

[UntilThen]

I tried out the CCS/RES setting. Definitely noticed a difference. RES I found warmer, "dirtier" and boomier bass. I prefer the CCS setting, but will try the RES setting again in the future for sure. I will hear more tube differences through the RES setting.

Also noticed a difference when using the 30mA bias setting on tubes that can handle 60mA. It's not just the volume that increased. The tubes seemed to handle the music better and sounds were more coherent.

Here's a different look. This time with brown base tubes. I don't think I have anything new to report on the tubes I've used so far. Sonic and performance characteristics of tubes like Fivre 6SN7, Sylvania 6SN7 metal base (Sylvania 6J5 metal base are a far cheaper option - look for ones with similar construction to the 6SN7), MWT/Osram 6J5, Tungsol BGRP are pretty well known and sound no different in this amp. The bass on TS BGRP is still killer (and again similar construction 6J5 are well worth a try).

When you get tired of that KT77, can you send them to me?

Fabulous tubes you have there. What can you report about noise hum from the amp or is it non-existent?

 

[whirlwind]

Love that color brother!

 

[leftside]

Love that color brother!

Thanks bud! We were working on materials, design and finishing for quite a while. Mischa found a great place nearby to help out. Obvious "borrowing" of ideas from Lampizator...

 

[leftside]

When you get tired of that KT77, can you send them to me?

Fabulous tubes you have there. What can you report about noise hum from the amp or is it non-existent?

Noise and hum externally and through the headphones is basically non-existent with good tubes even at very loud volumes. I got three of those KT77 from the same guy a couple of years ago. Good price for the three - for KT77 anyway. One has a broken spigot, one tests low (but still works fine) and two of them "only" test around 80%. Perfect for me - so I don't feel guilty using them!

 

[maxpudding]

I tried out the CCS/RES setting. Definitely noticed a difference. RES I found warmer, "dirtier" and boomier bass. I prefer the CCS setting, but will try the RES setting again in the future for sure. I will hear more tube differences through the RES setting.

Also noticed a difference when using the 30mA bias setting on tubes that can handle 60mA. It's not just the volume that increased. The tubes seemed to handle the music better and sounds were more coherent.

Here's a different look. This time with brown base tubes. I don't think I have anything new to report on the tubes I've used so far. Sonic and performance characteristics of tubes like Fivre 6SN7, Sylvania 6SN7 metal base (Sylvania 6J5 metal base are a far cheaper option - look for ones with similar construction to the 6SN7), MWT/Osram 6J5, Tungsol BGRP are pretty well known and sound no different in this amp. The bass on TS BGRP is still killer (and again similar construction 6J5 are well worth a try).

I know CCS, but what is the RES setting? And what does the RES setting do actually?

 

[A2029]

I know CCS, but what is the RES setting? And what does the RES setting do actually?

Res setting stands for resistor. There are two ways to feed the anode of the driver tubes in his amp. The first is the constant current source (CCS) that acts to linearize the loadline on the driver tubes, leading to lower distortion and more consistent high performance across tube rolls. The second method is a more traditional method of feeding the driver tube anodes with resistors (in this case Kiwame resistors). Feeding the driver tube anodes with resistors instead of the CCS leads to less linear tube operation, with an angled loadline, more distortion (primarily second harmonic, leading to warmer and less controlled sound in most cases) and much more variability between tube rolls.

 

[L0rdGwyn]

The clear topcoat on the copper looks fantastic! And matches those micanol base tubes very well. Getting all of that sorted must have been a lot of work.

 

[UntilThen]

Noise and hum externally and through the headphones is basically non-existent with good tubes even at very loud volumes.

Excellent. A quiet amp with a pitch black background is the hallmark of a great tube amp. Congrats once again. This amp will respond to changes in driver and power tubes and you have the most enviable collection of great NOS tubes.

 

[leftside]

I know CCS, but what is the RES setting? And what does the RES setting do actually?

Fun to use RES for tube rolling. There is no denying for me tho that CCS is better. Everything is simply tighter and more coherent.

 

[maxpudding]

Fun to use RES for tube rolling. There is no denying for me tho that CCS is better. Everything is simply tighter and more coherent.

All in all, an excellent amp, thanks for the photos and review!