Seeing as how Radio Shack has these priced so well, and a lot of members seem to be picking them up to mod, I thought it would be nice to have the mods shown here. So go ahead, post pictures of anything you have done to your Koss clip-ons. I promise I will contribute soon.

SPC in teflon litz cable:

Might have to pick up some resistors and try that mod out.

-did the "Kramer-mod" (dremeled out the grill, cut up the pads)
-planning on adding in the resistors, on order
-re-attached the cable when it broke off

I finally got a pair of these, and yes, the audio is excellent for its price. However, after I tested these on my commute today, I realized that these are really too open for my needs. I'm thinking about actually messing around with some sort of noise cancelling like the one on headwize (http://headwize.com/projects/showfil...=noise_prj.htm) I know noise cancelling usually introduces some hum/noise, but i'm assuming should be fine with the ksc75. Has anyone ever tried making these? any ideas for circuit modifications (i. e. different opamp, etc...)?

I have a spare Senn HD650 cable that I would like to use to recable my KSC75. I've never recabled before, so I was wondering if anyone can offer any pointers?

One of the wires has a green cable intertwined with a copper cable, the other one has a red cable intertwined with a red cable. Which one is Right, which one is Left? What do I solder it to?

I'm a noob. Help me not be pwned by the KSC-75.

looking to recable my ksc-75 with a 650 cable myself. Im just waiting on my damn cable.
http://www6.head-fi.org/forums/showthread.php?t=169856

i've only done a neckband mod so far, but i'm planning on recabling from the current Y-cord to a straight-left/right. a possible problem i see is that the wire contacts are in direct contact with the plastic housing. how did you (anyone with experience) avoid melting the housing while you were soldering?

I'm lookin for some more eye candy in this thread

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No, they're in contact with small square metal pads (which are in direct contact with the plastic housing). I ended up melting the housing because I wasn't very careful, and there's a sort of lip around the sunken part where the wiring happens. So it's a little like the game Operation, but only if you're clumsy like me. Also, be very very careful not to keep the soldering iron in contact with the pads for too long (any more than 2-3 sec.) - the first time I held it on for a bit too long (maybe only 5 sec) and the driver got warped a little from the heat. I'm sure they'd be totally destroyed after 10 sec. And for the record, it didn't make any difference in the sound, but just to be sure I bought another pair.

thanks, spaceconvoy. that's pretty much the problem i envisioned. i figured that by the time you sufficiently heated the metal pads to melt 60/40 solder, they would already be hot enough to melt through the plastic underneath.

so, in addition to good timing, do you have to try to minimize the pressure you apply with the iron?

35's

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No, the plastic housing isn't the problem - the real problem is the heat transfering through the wires and melting the driver itself. So no, there's nothing you can do except just be quick and careful.

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Ahh, pics.... now I feel better

my px75s... sadly RIP. they soared for a brief day and a half, but got too close to the sun. may they rest in peace (or be rudely ressurected when I have time)

Here's my Mark III version of the Frankenkoss - what I hope will be the final chapter in my search for the perfect cheap headband for the ksc75. This time it's foldable!




Since this was a ksc75 w/ volume control, I hacked that plastic doodad right out, and spliced on a cord from a pair of iriver buds I had sitting around (chosen mainly because it has a straight plug that's perfect for my shuffle). I resoldered at the Y connection, because last time I tried resoldering at the metal pads on the driver housing, I almost melted the drivers.

To secure the Y connection, I coated everything in a thin layer of hot glue, then wrapped it with a nylon strap I had sitting around (that grey and black thing you see in the picture) and sealed the nylon by melting it with a lighter. I know it sounds a little jury-rigged, but I got it tight enough where it seems sturdy but still flexible.

Also pictured are my "dremel-modded" grills. I don't have a dremel, so I used an exacto to make the holes (that's why it looks so bad). Just dig the point into the plastic and start twisting the blade - it works like a crude drill. Hey, it got the job done and it's not like I have to look at it everyday




Used a pair of cheap Coby foldables ($3 at the drugstore) for the headband. After I ripped out their drivers, there was a little cup left to fit in the Koss brackets. Obviously, I had to chop them off of the earclips which was a bit tough with just an exacto. Again, secured with hot glue (tons this time ). After that, you can just pop the drivers in like regular clips.




All folded up, for a size comparison.




I'm very satisfied with how it all turned out. The headband is light and comfortable, and squeezes with the perfect amount of pressure to keep the Koss snug against my ears. Doing the dremel mod opens up the highs and tames the bass, but keeping the pads as stock (with no hole cut out of the middle) keeps them non-fatiguing and not too bright.

And despite the poverty of materials, I think I took enough care with the build quality that everything seems secure and looks good (from the outside at least ). And it all fits in my pocket to boot! The Koss + Shuffle combination is portable heaven, and now I don't have to suffer the pain of earclips. Now I just have to do something about the Coby logo...
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