Reviews by fjrabon

fjrabon

Headphoneus Supremus
Pros: DAC transparency; ultra-low-impedance amp; neutral, flat, clean sound; crossfeed; DAC filters; build quality; form factor is small and well designed
Cons: won't drive the most demanding headphones properly (HE-6, 600 Ohm beyerdynamics, etc); can only buy through massdrop
In the last year, I changed my approach to headphone setups.  At one point I had a desktop setup for the HD650 (Bifrost + Lyr), a mobile amp with various portable cans I've owned (various FiiO products), and a small, work setup (Modi+Magni stack) for my Shure SRH840.  What I realized is that a large portion of the time I was not using any of that stuff and i was often simply using my Grados or KSC75s through my iPhone because it's convenient and I could do chores around the house or walk the dog.  I was spending a majority of my time with my least expensive setups.  
 
So I decided to simplify based on a few rules:
 
1) Any headphones had to be drivable by an iPhone and sound very good straight out.
2) All gear had to be all-arounders, in that it sounded good with any gear I own, and all amps work well with all headphones.  No more of this "this amp is for this headphone" stuff.
3) No more big desktop stacks.
 
But I also didn't want to compromise on audio quality either.  I was unsure if this was possible, but I wanted to see how close I could get.  So, I first sold off all the gear that didn't fit that program.  HD650, all my Schiit gear, gone.  
 
Headphones were the next big decision.  First move was the Shure SRH840.  To me, that's the best closed headphone in the $200 range (yeah, better than the M50X).  Grado SR225e came next as my fun, open can.  Then I demo'd the HiFiMan HE400i and knew that would be the cornerstone primary headphone.  
 
The next challenge became the DAC/Amp.  While everything had to be drivable by the iPhone, I did want something that I could use to take them to the next level.  And that was surprisingly challenging.  
 
People on here often talk about "scaling well" and primarily what they mean is that the headphones are hard to drive, and thus require an expensive powerful amp to properly power.  In my experience, easy to drive headphones can actually be more challenging to properly power.  Lower impedance easy to drive headphones require a lot of current, rather than a lot of pure power.  You also need a low output impedance for dampening.  The 02 was one of the first amps to really "get" this.  But it was shrill to my ears with a lot of headphones.  The Schiit Magni also offered this, but again, I didn't want a stack.  
 
I had always been drawn to Grace units, but A) they were the size of a rack unit and B) they were $1500-$2000, which was more than I wanted to spend.  
 
Things started to come together when I saw the announcement for the m9XX.
 
The m9XX on paper looked about perfect.  
 
The ultra-low impedance meant that it would drive a lot of current (ohms law states that as the output impedance goes toward 0, current goes towards infinity), especially since it could deliver 1000mW at 32 ohms. With an output impedance of 0.08, this meant that the current it sent to headphones was literally near infinite.  
 
The design was spot on: simple, ergonomically appealing, attractive.  It had several features I found very appealing as well:
1) Crossfeed.  To me crossfeed is nearly required for long listening sessions to avoid fatigue.  Without it, it's like my brain gets tired trying to reconcile hearing sounds consistently only out of one ear (this almost never happens in real life, so it confuses your brain).  
2) linear decibel stepped volume control.  Most amps have a volume control where power levels are just some arbitrary points. often times halfway through the dial isn't half power, or half volume or anything in particular.  On the Grace m9XX, each spot represents an actual half decibel.  This makes it possible to fine tune adjust the volume on an IEM and a planar magnetic headphone without using a gain switch (and thus changing the output impedance as well).  It also makes it very easy to understand volume differences, since the display numbers are actual decibels.  
3) one output line that allows the RCA outs to still work, and one that mutes the RCA outputs.  This allows a number of things: you can play two headphones at the same time, for quick critical comparisons (or listening with a friend), using a sub with your headphone (try it, it's an interesting experience) and auto-muting speakers you may have been feeding from the DAC.
4) ability to be both USB powered, but also have a high power mode that doesn't change the gain (and thus maintains the low output impedance) but adds more headroom.  For many headphones USB bus power is all you need, but it's nice to have that little extra power you can send if needed, and unlike gain switches, it doesn't make things more noisy, or add impedance.  
5) The DAC chip was the same as the DAC chip in my bifrost, which even though I wanted to slim down the form factor, I loved the sound of the bifrost.
 
That all looked great on paper, and combined with Grace's reputation, I decided to jump in.  Even if the amp was merely decent, $499 was a reasonable price for the DAC, given the components and features.  
 
So, I got it; did it live up to my hopes/expectations? (well, spoiler alert if you noticed the rating I gave, you know the answer to this)  
 
Yes, absolutely it fulfilled my expectations, 100% and then some.  
 

 
 
First, the build quality, fit, finish and feel exceeded my high expectations.  Supposedly the engineers at BMW exhaustively test each car, so that the sound and feel of the door closing is just right.  That's how the volume control feels when you turn it or push it down (push to mute or hold to access the settings menu).  The front, back and top plate is one piece of high quality aluminum.  It feels solid without being heavy.  It manages to seem both robust yet elegant.  
 
It's the apple macbook pro or BMW 5 series of audio equipment.  Fit, finish, feel and performance all coming together perfectly.
 
Now, on to the sound part:
 
It manages to be incredibly transparent, spacious, with great treble and bass extension, without sounding dry and brittle.  It's extremely transparent, yet musical.  Nothing about it sounds unnatural.  It just gets out of the way, and takes on the character of the headphones and music instead of imparting its own footprint.  This isn't what you want, if you want to hear your DAC/amp in your chain.  You don't hear the m9XX, you hear *through* the m9XX.  You'll instead hear your music and headphones.  To me, that's the ultimate compliment for a DAC/amp, that it simply gets out of the way and lets everything else do its part.  
 
Now, coming back to what I said at the beginning, where this amp really shines is on lower impedance headphones.  It can drive an HD650 very well, but to me, in some ways, driving low impedance headphones has its own challenge.  Most of the headphones I own are very current hungry, that is, instead of needing a lot of absolute power, they need a lot of current to tighten up and define the bass, and refine the treble and midrange, and give shape and definition to the soundstage and accuracy to the imaging.  This is the real key to the m9XX, that it can make your low impedance headphones sound like you've never heard them before.  And it can drive IEMs well.  And it can even sound really good on a freaking HD800.  0.08 output resistance with 1mW of power makes this ultra versatile.  
 
High Power Mode is vastly superior to most amps High Gain Mode: more current, less noise, no increase in output impedance
 
Talking a bit more about how high power mode works, and why it's substantially superior to the "high gain" mode of most headphones: In high power mode, instead of increasing the gain, Grace simply adds more headroom.  You'll notice that 70 on low and high gain are the same loudness.  You don't get an increase in noise at all, like you do with most DACs high gain mode, you don't get an increase in output impedance.  You do get more current, which most amps high gain mode don't actually send more current, they just increase output impedance.  Basically High Power Mode adds headroom and the ability to use settings over 90 without running out of current on tap and getting a "OC" (Over Current) error and the consequent muting.  
 
Now on to how it sounds with various headphone pairings I tried it with.
 
With the HiFiMan HE400i, the pair is just effortlessly balanced and precise.  
 
I think the HE400i paired with the Grace m9XX could be my endgame setup.  As they've both rolled past 150 hours, with 80 hours of "on head" time, this is just such an incredible pairing.  
 
Ihis is the *perfect* pairing for long sessions.  Enabling crossfeed on the Grace, and this is the least fatiguing headphone I've ever heard.  The resolution and transparency means that I never have to strain to hear anything.  The tonal balance, flat bass and  (to me) neutrality means no frequency ever wears you out. The crossfeed makes for a less fatiguing listen as well.  While the soundstage isn't vast on the HE400i, it's so coherent and imaging is so precise, that it's an effortless listen.  It's present without being sibilant.  The bass is full and extends, without booming (which can get fatiguing after a while to me).  
 
The signature, right away, can almost seem boring.  But it's just so resolving, transparent and fast, while being smooth and musical, that those qualities become fun in their own right.  I realize instead of being like "wow, oh my god the bass" like I am with some equipment, more often I think "wow, this song is incredible."  WIth this pairing it just becomes so squarely about the music as opposed to noticing things about the headphone, amp and DAC.  
 
The word that keeps coming to mind with this pair is simply "effortless" They just effortlessly bring me my music.  They get out of the way.
 
Finally this pairing has by far the most listenable range of volume I've ever heard.  On the Grace, I find the HE400i listenable from 59 to 79.  That's 20 dB of difference that I find them perfectly listenable.
 
With the Fostex THX00, the pair is rich, smooth, detailed and powerful
 
The THX00, like the other TH series cans, and the old Denon DX000 predecessors are tricky to amp, despite not needing much in the way of absolute power.  They're very easy to drive, but if they don't get a lot of current, the bass can be quite uncontrolled, especially on hard fast bass transients.  The Grace comes in and cleans this all up with aplomb.  A can that out of other amps can sound average in terms of detail and imaging becomes quite good in those areas.  To my ears the Grace gives these cans exactly what they need, a very resolving and spacious DAC and tons of current because of the Grace's ultra low output impedance in the amp section.  it's been said by more than a few that it almost sounds like the THX00 was tuned for the m9XX, and it's hard to disagree.  But I also think that almost any low impedance cans with powerful magnets in the drivers (the THX00 is over 1 Tesla) benefit from the current the m9XX pushes.  The m9XX doesn't change the THX00's signature, it just tightens everything, smooths some of the rough edges out and adds a level of detail and transparency.  Essentially it enhances the THX00's strengths (bass power, fun factor) while polishing its perceived weaknesses (detail, bass texture, imaging).  What you're left with is a heck of a fun, yet technically proficient pairing.
 
I also spent about an hour with the TH900 with this pair and the bass on the TH900 with the m9XX was legendary: controlled, powerful, deep, no bleed over.  Everything I said about the THX00 applies here, except with the TH900's even more powerful bass.  If you don't like the TH900's hard V signature, this won't "mellow" it out all.  Again, what the Grace does is get out of the way and lets the headphone do its thing.  If you're a fan of the TH900, you'll love this pairing.  If you aren't a fan of the TH900 sound, you're still going to dislike it.
 
 With the Sennheiser HD650 the pairing is incredibly smooth, detailed and refined with gorgeously textured bass and smooth, if a bit veiled, treble
 
There are two approaches to properly amping the HD650: 1) something that shows the headphone's inherent character or 2) something that provides a little more treble energy to shake off the "sennheiser veil."  If you want the latter, this isn't the pairing for you, because as previously stated what the Grace does more than anything is get out of the way and lets the headphone do its thing.  That means this pairing does much more of the former, you hear how the HD650 really sounds.  It's incredibly detailed, the bass has a sort of refined grace, the treble has a relaxed smoothness that's simultaneously detailed.  To some this sounds veiled and boring, to others it's the pinnacle of engaging treble and a deep soundstage that sounds like you're watching a concert from about the level of the soundboard, as opposed to the front row.  If you want to "shake off the veil" I'd go with something a bit more energetic, like maybe a Lyr (with either solid state or more energetic tubes).  
 
This pairing really shows what the DAC section is all about though, as the microdetail somehow manages to be both precise and crisp yet musical and relaxed.  It's a sort of elegant beauty that sounds really classy.  It's probably not the amp I'd use if I was building an HD650 system from scratch, but I've come to realize that has more to do with some dissatisfaction I personally have with the HD650's relaxed signature.  I wanted an amp that would "fix" it, and as I've already stated, the m9XX isn't going to fix any issues you have with a headphone's signature, it's simply going to reflect the base signature, and refine the more technical aspects.  I think of it like a photographer making a model look as beautiful as possible with skill in photography, without using photoshop to "fix" things.  It brings out the best of what is available.  
 
Grados are frighteningly fast and energetic, gain a bit tighter punch in the midbass, and become an even more fun, if still a strictly technically flawed listen
 
I think there tend to normally be two camps with regards to the Grado sound: those that think it's complete trash that hipsters love and those that can't accept that there might be ANY flaws whatsoever.  I tend to fall into a middle ground.  The SR60e is one of the first three headphones I bought when I got into headphone audio (the Denon D1001 and Audio Technica AD700 being the others) and I'll always be fond of the sound.  They can bring a lot of energy, especially to older classic rock recordings.  They provide a lot of speed on the cheap.  But I also realize that they're honestly technically deficient if the goal is to reproduce what is in a recording.  Again, the Grace won't give them some semblance of sub bass, it's still as rolled off as ever.  The Grace will, however, "perk up" the Grado upper midbass hump, providing classic rock kick drums a bit more thump, thus somewhat equalizing the perception of the signature, without changing the Grado house sound.  Grados are notoriously current hungry, and the m9XX defnitely provides the current they crave.  This results in a lot more refined sound.  I tried the pairing with the SR80e and the SR225e.  The Grace really took the SR225e to a great place.  The DAC section really enhanced the soundstage and imaging.  The amp section gave their already good speed the high octane it needed to become a gloriously fast headphone for metal and prog rock.  The amp section also gave that bass hump some authority and depth that it normally lacks.  The SR80e didn't see quite the same benefit, though you got some semblance of a soundstage (unusual for the SR80e, which to my ears has virtually no depth or soundstage width).  The SR80e's at times flabby midbass tightened up.  The fatiguing upper midrange smoothed out just a touch.  It's not going to turn a SR series Grado into a GS1000, but it will take the Grado house sound to the next level, while staying unmistakably Grado, for good and/or ill.  
 
Other miscellaneous pairings I tried
 
Just going to dump my pairing notes with headphones that are either less common or that I didn't spend a TON of time listening to:
 
1) TheAudio Technica  ESW9A is probably my most difficult headphone to amp, in the sense that most amps tend to actually make it sound worse.  As a headphone it's kind of muddy, has boomy bass, and isn't particularly transparent.  Treble/upper midrange is kind of weird and veiled, but with a little sparkle on the very top.  The pairing essentially brought all these qualities to the fore.  It did add a bit more detail, but overall, yeah, this headphone still sounds better out of an iPhone than it does when amped.  It's pretty though, and very portable.  A good headphone to non-critically walk the dog, not to plug into an amp and listen to carefully
 
2) The Shure SRH840 is probably the easiest headphone I have to amp.  It's so workmanlike that it just does its job with almost anything.  The pairing worked well.  The Grace, as per usual, added a bit more detail retrieval and transparency and firmed up the bass.  If you want a slightly warm, soft U-shaped monitoring style headphone with good treble clarity, this is it.  I love this headphone, but it won't wow you immediately.  This pairing is an ultimate all-arounder when it comes to closed headphones.  It does everything very, very well, but doesn't amaze you with any single aspect.  
 
3) The Audio Technica M50X has issues with bass bloat at times, and the m9XX helped with that.  The m9XX couldn't do much about the lack of soundstage though, it still sounds like you're having sound pumped into the middle of the brain, and imaging is still basically only left middle and right, no nuance.  The m9XX did refine the treble a bit though.  the M50X is a headphone that is notorious for sounding the same pretty much no matter what is amping it, and that held true here as well.  
 
4) The Audio Technica AD700 has some issues with grain, and the m9XX brought that out.  However, the AD700 is also incredibly detailed and spacious and the m9XX highlighted and enhanced that.  At times the soundstage was almost so vast that imaging lost a bit of coherence.  Crossfade helped with that, making for a large (thought not cavernous) soundstage that was very precise imaging wise.  The AD700 is one of the most rolled off headphones in sub bass I've ever heard, and that stayed true with the m9XX.  
 
5) The Koss KSC75 is an ultra portable on ear clip on headphone.  But its quality is incredible for $15.  THere are a lot of $100 headphones it wipes the floor with.  I would never use it on the m9XX on a regular basis, I strictly use it as a portable "walk around outside" headphone.  But here goes anyway: The KSC75 has great treble detail and sparkle, though is fairly rolled off in the bass (mostly due to the way it just sorta hangs around your ear).  The m9XX made it sound even more spacious and detailed.  
 
6) The Denon D1001 is essentially the same headphone as the long running and budget popular Creative Aurvana Live.  I believe Fostex actually makes it.  It has a budget version of the Fostex house sound regardless.  It has pretty great midbass and sparkly treble.  It's certainly a V-Shaped headphone, which helps hide its weaknesses (a bit congested and not super resolving).  I was actually surprised how much the m9XX improved this headphone.  The sometimes boomy bass was tightened substantially, and gained more extension.  The muddiness was cut fairly dramatically.  I could hear some grain, that the muddiness had never even allowed me to hear before.  Grain is always preferable to muddiness, so this was a welcome revelation.  This is another "knock around" headphone.  I've owned it and enjoyed it for about 10 years now and it was nice to have some new life breathed into it.  It's still not an amazing headphone, but the Creative Aurvana Live version is still a bargain (Denon long ago discontinued this, at the same time it notoriously switched from Fostex for the rest of the DX000 serious, leading me to believe this is a Fostex headphone).  But I mean I don't know anybody who would buy an amp like the m9XX for it.  
 
Notes on the filters:
 
The filters are very subtle, so it took quite a while for me to suss out their effects.  They don't so much change the frequency response much, their primary effect is in how they handle the delicate balance of rich, absolute timbral accuracy and maximum clarity.  I don't think people realize that this is often a tradeoff, as super compressed music with lots of treble can often cause aliasing distortion with ultra-high-quality DACs.  I think this is a lot of the phenomenon people notice when they say certain top-shelf DACs are "very harsh to bad sources."  Sometimes it's almost like people here relish a DAC that makes pop music sound like crap, as if that's a badge of pride.  Grace, however, decided to give you the option for a more detailed DAC and a more forgiving DAC (to simplify things greatly).
 
F1: This is given the default spot as the filter, and I think for good reason.  It's the setting that will probably sound best, for most people and how they use the m9XX and the music they'll most use for it.  This is the best setting to use if the Grace is both your DAC and your amp and you're listening to compressed music.  There are two aspects to this setting (like all the settings): fast roll-off and in phase modulation.  The first essentially cuts down on aliasing distortion issues that can happen in highly compressed music with lots of high frequency content.  The second keeps a linear phase response, for maximum preservation of the source signal.  The latter can be bad if you're using an amp that isn't the Grace, ie using the RCA outputs to feed an amp or powered speakers.  Something about how they built the amp section of the Grace seems to do away with the intermodulation issues that can happen with a linear phase.  This intermodulation effect seems to be especially problematic with tubes, which can have microphonic tendencies.  I honestly couldn't tell much difference between F1 and F3, until I put the m9XX in front of my SSHM hybrid tube amp, and there the F3 setting sounded much cleaner than F1.  
 
TL:DR: if you're listening to typical pop/rock music that is loud with a lot of treble, and you're not using an amp after the Grace, this is probably your best setting.  
 
F2: This is probably the most accurate filter, and what would probably measure the best in objective testing.  It is susceptible to aliasing issues with highly compressed, treble music.  ie pop music will sound somewhat harsher with it.  It can also theoretically have intermodulation issues if it's being used with an external amp.  But when using it with well-recorded, non treble-heavy material, and the Grace as an amp, it provides the ultimate in transparency.  
 
TL;DR: if you're listening to well recorded and mastered music and not using an external amp, this is your no-compromise absolute transparency setting.
 
F3: This setting is the ultimate "fix problems" setting, everything will sound good out of this setting, regardless of what is going through it, and you'll never have to worry about problems.  It sacrifices a bit of complete transparency to cut down as much as possible on aliasing distortion and intermodulation distortion.  
 
TL;DR: use this if you're listening to highly compressed music with very loud treble and using an external amp out of it (especially at tube amp), or if you're experiencing distortion issues and you're not sure what part of the chain they may be coming from.  
 
F4: This is probably the filter that can, theoretically, get the absolute best sound out of the m9XX's DAC section.  It produces the full, rich tone, without giving worry to aliasing issues in high treble energy music, but shifts the ringing to reduce any intermodulation effects that might happen with an external amp (especially a tube amp)
 
TL;DR: use this if you primarily listen to exceptionally well recorded music and are using an amp (especially tubes) after the m9XX.
 
Conclusions: 
 
This is an INCREDIBLE piece of gear.  It's so versatile that it's astounding.  I'm not an IEM guy (can't stand the feeling of having something in my ear canal) but it can effortlessly amp those with complete silence, and it can drive an HD650 very well.  Heck, several people even say it's a great pairing with the Sennheiser HD800.  It's so well designed from all angles: look, feel, build quality, feature set, sound quality and just some indescribable "ahhhhhh" feeling of satisfaction every time I look at it.  Where it really shines are the current hungry high end but low impedance headphones that have really been a growing market segment these days.  The crop of easier to drive planars and low impedance dynamics will sound better than many thought possible through the m9XX.  It's not going to blow you away on a first listen though.  It's not going to grow a subwoofer in your bass deficient headphone, pr give a non-detailed headphone HD800 level resolution.  But it will take the headphone that it's being given and shine it as well as it possibly can.  It's not going to power a HE-6, but it can handle almost every "normal" headphone with aplomb.  I'm pretty sure this is the last DAC or amp I will ever own, unless there's some crazy leap forward in technology.  
 
I think of it this way: If this thing was just a DAC, and had no features (no crossfeed, no filters, no volume control, etc) it would be a bargain at $399.  If you had a unit that added the features it has (crossfeed, filters) for just that add on unit, you could charge $100.  If it was just a solid state amp, given its ultra low impedance, the way the volume control and high power mode work, the cleanliness, just the amp section would be a bargain at $250.  Put that all together and you have a product, that on pure sound quality alone would be a bargain at $750.  Then when you combine the convenience, elegance, and quality of the build and form factor, this is easily a $800-$1000 product.  It would make a lot of "best value" lists if it cost $899.  Grace and Massdrop got it to us for $499, which makes it a stupefying value.  
 
You can throw this in a messenger bag, without any worry, and you can have sound quality that will put many $2000 systems to shame.  You can power everything from an IEM to a HE500 and never feel that your gear is being compromised.  It's an all around solution that somehow manages to make no real compromises at a budget friendly price.  If your headphones don't require s small scale nuclear power reactor to drive, I have one piece of advice about this:
 
If you have the chance BUY THIS THING
nicdub
nicdub
Great review.  Really liked your descriptions of the filters.  Thanks!
dChinChillab
dChinChillab
Great Review! Now I'm actually considering this piece of equipment.
Ventace
Ventace
Eh are you sure they can't drive the HE6's well?
Like, I've heard they make the K7xx's scale amazingly, and are a perfect match for the HE400i, but there are also claims that it can drive the LCD4's with no shortcomings, and the HD800's.
If they can't drive the HE6's should I just avoid them? (I own a pair and my Valhalla kind of got knocked off my counter by my dog)

fjrabon

Headphoneus Supremus
Pros: very dynamic, smooth tube output stage. good soundstage. good detail. lots of options for very subtle tweaking
Cons: runs hot. Large and heavy. Lacks micro-detail of highest end R2R DACs Can only use transistor output on RCA output
Ever since its debut, I’ve been a big fan of the AKM 4490 chip in almost every device I’ve heard it in.  The Bifrost 4490 was a great midlevel DAC, I love the m9XX and the Modi 2 Uber with 4490 is an incredible value.  So, when I saw the Cayin iDAC6, I was extremely intrigued.  First, it was the only implementation I had seen that used dual AKM 4490 chips.  Secondly, it had the option of going fully balanced, and also having the ability to choose between tube and solid state analog output stages.  
 
I bought my unit from another Head-Fier used, who got his unit in one of the very first batches that were sold to the public.  He kept the amp, but after A/Bing his unit preferred his Yggdrasil to the iDAC6.  Given that Yggy is a $2000+ DAC that is generally considered the best DAC in the world, that’s not much of a slight on the iDAC6.
 
Gear used:  Unless otherwise noted, most testing was done with my TorpedoIII amp and HD800 headphones, unless otherwise noted Sonarworks calibration was applied to the HD800.  Inputs used were a mix of optical, USB and USB via Schitt Wyrd USB decrappifier.  
 
Looks:
 
The iDAC6 is a pretty classic looking medium/large DAC.  It’s appointed in a matte, brushed aluminum type finish, with a chrome polished knob and three chrome function buttons.  The volume on knob had a very tasteful white LED ring around it to indicate that the device was powered on.  A very standard LCD screen indicates necessary info like sample rate, mode, level, input type, output type, etc.  The LCD is slightly angled upwards, which makes reading it a bit easier since you will normally be looking slightly down at it while adjusting it.  A very subtle white screen printed cursive Cayin logo sits unobtrusively in the top left corner.
 
All in all, I would call it a very classy looking DAC that doesn’t really make any statements one way or the other looks wise.  It looks very typical of silver finished equipment.  
 
While not being larger than most DACs of its class, it is quite heavy.  I have mixed feelings about this, in that it’s no worse in this regard than competitors, but I also just don’t feel like DACs need to be this big any more.  This is doubly problematic because it runs so hot.  TO me the traditional argument for DACs being this large and heavy was because they needed to be that big to properly dissipate heat.  But this DAC still runs very warm.  Not unbearable to the touch or anything, but warmer than any tube amp I’ve ever owned.  In comparison to some of the newer top quality DACs I’ve tried, the footprint is quite large.  And as noticed during the tour, shipping for this item can be insane because it weighs about 15 pounds.  That being said, the size and heft does give it a feeling of being substantial.  Overall I’d call the size and heft a mild negative.
 
Features:
 
The iDAC6 features a full range of the normal selection of inputs and outputs to be expected of top range DACs: Inputs are: Optical TOSLINK, Coaxial TOSLINK, AES, USB Type B. Outputs are: Balanced XLR dual 3 pin, unbalanced RCA.  Output is on the higher side (2.2V RMS unbalanced, 4.4 V RMS balanced).  Input is selected by pressing the small chrome “source” button.  Output does not need to be selected, as they both are always active.  If you have amps plugged into both the balanced and unbalanced outputs, they will both receive signal from the DAC.  As far as I know there is no way to switch between them, other than simply unplugging from the output you aren’t using (or turning off the amp receiving that signal, obviously).
 
On USB DSD 64 and DSD 128 are supported natively, while up to 32/384 are supported through PCM.
 
Five filters that are native to the AKM 4490 chip are use selectable.  This was very interesting to me, because although I’ve had several DACs that use this chip, this is the first time I’ve had one that just used AKM’s filters unchanged.  The Grace m9XX only uses 4 filters, and as best as I can tell they’re slightly altered versions of the 4 AKM filters.  The Schitt products that use the AKM4490 do not allow the user to select the filter, and seem to use the Slow filter always.  The f filters are: Super Slow Roll Off, Short Delay Slow Roll Off, Slow Roll Off, Short Delay Sharp Roll Off, and Sharp Roll Off.  Here is a picture that AKM has released describing them:
 

 
This picture somewhat exaggerates the differences between the filters, which can be quite subtle.  Unlike the filters on the Grace m9XX, they are a bit more noticeable here.  I found slow roll off to be the best sounding, and unless otherwise noted, the rest of this review will be written about the sound with this filter employed.  Much of choosing the right filter will be based upon the music you listen to and your downstream amplifier, as one of the primary functions of these filters are to deal with issues in aliasing distortion and intermodulation distortion that can arise with some music in some setups.  This isn’t really the place to go into a ton of detail about how the filters work, but I will just say that most sources seem to agree that slow roll off is the best setting if you aren’t having issues elsewhere in your chain with IM or aliasing distortion.  The different filters can be switched by pressing in the large rotary knob.
 
In addition to the five filters, the iDAC6 also allows you to choose between solid state and tube output stages ****IF YOU ARE USING THE UNBALANCED RCA OUTPUTS****.  Make sure you are clear on that.  If you are using the balanced outputs, you are limited to the tube output stage.  When plugged into the RCA unbalanced output, you can switch between tube and transistor output by hitting the “timbre” small chrome button.  If you do this when plugged into the balanced output the iDAC6 will always output from the tube stage.  Even if the LCD says “transistor” if you are plugged into the balanced output you are getting the tube output stage.  Because of this, the tube stage is always on whenever the iDAC6 is on.  Even if you are running it in transistor mode through the RCA output, the tube output stage is still running.
 
The iDAC6 also allows you to alternate between two operation modes: pre-amp and line out mode.  The differences are thus: line out mode allows for the playing of DSD natively and pre-amp mode allows you to adjust the unit’s output level digitally via the AKM4490’s built in 32 bit digital volume attenuator.  If you want native DSD, you must use the line out mode, as pre-amp forces everything to go to PCM, since it needs to be PCM in order to do the digital processing that the volume control uses. 
 
So, now that the thorough description of the look and features, on to the meat of the review. 
 
Sound: 
 
The first thing I notice about the sound of this DAC, is the “heft” of its output, especially in the bottom end.  Comparing it to other DACs I own, with a given amp, it has very clearly the most punch and impact of anything I’ve ever tried.  I believe this comes from the output stage, rather than the chip/conversion stage.  The Grace m9XX, when run as a DAC only into my TorpedoIII is nowhere near as punchy as the iDAC6 through the RCA output is into the same amp with the same headphones.  As both of these utilize the same AKM4490 chip (albeit with the iDAC6 sporting two of them), I don’t think this can be a tonal characteristic of the chip.  It is even punchier than the Bifrost 4490, which is known for being a punchy DAC.  It just has an effortless sense of power when powering through transients.  At times, in certain setups, with certain headphones, it can sound almost “hard.”  This is especially evident when comparing it to the Modi Multibit, which has a sort of softness of sound to its output.  If you are trying to get a bit more “oomph” in your chain, this may very well be the DAC for you.  But if you have a super punchy amp and headphone, it may border on being too much.  There were times with the TorpedoIII and HD800 (both very punchy the way I have them setup) that the setup was so dynamic, that it was like it almost overwhelmed my ear and I was unable to hear detail in transients.  It’s not that the detail wasn’t there, I don’t think, it was that the setup was just too much for my ear.  It could be a bit fatiguing in this setup.  This held for both the tube and transistor output, although I think the transistor output was a bit less so, especially on bass transients.  The iDAC6 in tube mode could really produce some absolutely thunderous kick drums, for example, when paired with a punchy amp and a very lively headphone.  
 
With an HD650 though, this characteristic really shook off the Sennheiser veil, almost more than I’ve ever heard an amp doing.  Normally we think of needing just the right amp for the HD650 to come alive, but pairing it with the iDAC6 allowed some amps that I normally wouldn’t think of as being a good match with the HD650 to really shine.  The HiFiMan Edition X also really benefitted from this, as it’s characteristic “soft” sound was woken up just a bit, and while it retained its tonal character, it was a bit more lively and less “soft” sounding.  With the THX00, bass was even more addictively fun.  Drums sounded like thunder.
 
The second thing I noticed about the sound of the iDAC6 is a sense of easy spaciousness.  I wouldn’t say it sounds airy in the way that some Delta Sigma DACs can sound like you’re in a large, cold auditorium.  It often sounded like you were in a large room, but during summer.  I never felt claustrophobic, but I didn’t get a sense of airy spaciousness either.  Again, this characteristic held for both output types, but was most evident with tube output.  Soundstage was both a touch wider and deeper than other AKM4490 based DACs I’ve tried (m9XX, Bifrost4490, Modi 2 Uber 4490).  It doesn’t compete with the Yggdrasil, GuMBy or even MiMBy in terms of spaciousness, but acquits itself very well in that regard int he world of top end Delta Sigma DACs.  I never found myself wanting for soundstage with this DAC, but I have heard larger.  Imaging accuracy was excellent.  Separation was excellent.  It reacted well to when I turned on GoodHertz CanOpener for my crossfeed needs.  I have heard DACs that screw up the HRTF functions that CanOpener applies, somehow.  
 
Micro-detail was very good, but not truly class leading.  To me, this is where even the best Delta-Sigma falls short of R2R DACs.  They, at some point, seem to have to make a tradeoff between harsh and brittle tone or smoothing over some micro-detail.  While the Yggy, GuMBy and even MiMBy could preserve detail without having to be harsh, it seems the iDAC6 had to make this choice and opted for smoothness.  If this choice has to be made, it is certainly my preference that it go in the direction Cayin/AKM chose, which was smoother.  I abhor many of the Sabre based DAC that attack your sensibilities with brittle faux micro-detail.  It’s like many Delta Sigma DACs, because they’re missing some of that micro-detail pretend its there by making the tone harsh.  It’s sort of like when a photographer missed focus by an inch or two, and artificially over-sharpened in photoshop to make up for it.  The AKM4490 based DACs instead just smooth it out and make it sound great.  This has been a characteristic of every AKM4490 based DAC I’ve ever heard.  If anything the iDAC6 has the best micro-detail of any AKM4490 based DAC.  But there are DACs that are a bit better in this regard.  An example of how this plays out, is that you can hear tiny differences in the character of the reverb on some tracks with the R2R DACs, that were just a bit smoothed over with the iDAC6.  Now, this difference in detail is subtle.  I couldn’t even pick it out on an HD650, HE400i or Grado SR225e.  But on my HD800 it was there.
 
On the question of tube output vs. transistor:
 
To me, the feature that will garner the most headlines and confusion about this DAC is the tube output stage vs transistor.  There aren’t a whole lot of tube output stage DACs out there, and I don’t know of any that also let you choose transistor output stage.  To me, the tube output stage almost always sounded slightly better.  It lacked a certain edginess in transients that transistor had.  While the transistor output measures as having less THD, one of the things I’ve learned over the years in audio is that total amount of THD is less important than how that distortion breaks down.  The transistor output seems to have most of its THD located randomly in “harsh” high order harmonics.  The tube output stage (which operates *after* the transistor stage and acts more as a tube buffer) adds just a touch of low order harmonic distortion, which has the effect of smoothing the harsh edginess, just a bit.  I slightly prefer the tube output most of the time.  Think of it like this DAC basically has something like an iFi micro iTube built in.  As this costs $329 on its own, it’s quite a coup to have it built in and switchable.  In systems with no tube stage anywhere in the signal path I always preferred tube output stage.  But even in systems that had tubes otherwise in the signal path (TorpedoIII, for example) I still generally preferred the tube stage output, though I was able to appreciate the transistor output on some recordings a bit more.
 
 
Comparing to other DACs I either own or significantly demoed:
 
Grace m9XX: iDAC6 does everything the m9XX does except crossfeed just a little bit better.  For anybody who is familiar with the way the m9XX sounds, think of the iDAC6 as like an m9XX on steroids.  A bit more spacious (I believe due to operating two AKM4490s in dual mono mode), a bit more dynamic, a bit smoother, and a bit more detailed.  They’re entirely different products, with different usages obviously, but I’ve had a lot of m9XX owner’s ask me to make the comparison.  A lot of m9XX owners who bought the m9XX as their first high quality amp/DAC might eye the iDAC6 as a potential upgrade path for a full sized desk top rig, allowing the m9XX to serve as a smaller, semi-portable secondary option.  
 
Schiit GuMBy: this is the most clear tossup.  The GuMBy is a bit more detailed.  They both have similar tonalities though, leaning just a touch warm and inviting.  However, iDAC6 is more dynamic.  Bass transients (think kick drums, bass slaps, etc) have an additional weightiness to them that GuMBy lacks.  The iDAC6 hits harder, the GuMBy is a bit more detailed and spacious.  Which you prefer will depend on personal preferences and also your system.  I could absolutely see somebody with, for example, a HiFiMan HE1000 or Sennheiser HD650 based system preferring the iDAC6, to really make it hit harder and faster.  I could see somebody with an Abyss or HD800 preferring the GuMBy, not needing the additional impact, but being able to reproduce the extra detail.  It will be down to not just headphone, but also amp.  At this level, it really does come down to system synergy as much as anything.
 
Schiit Yggy: Yggy is better.  It has the detail advantage that GuMBy had, but also has the additional power and impact that iDAC6 has.  Now, the Yggy isn’t as tonally versatile as the iDAC6 is, so if you’re a tinkerer, you may still prefer the iDAC6.  But if you’re simply after the best single sound possible from your DAC, the Yggy wins out.  It does everything the iDAC6 does, but adds in a bit more space and detail.  That isn’t a slam on iDAC6 is, Yggy is over twice its price.
 
Overall final thoughts
 
I like this DAC a lot.  I bought it.  It’s my favorite Delta Sigma based DAC I’ve ever heard, by a pretty fair margin.  I’d call it highly dynamic, very detailed, spacious and neutral with maybe the slightest hint of warmth.  While it is dynamic, the smoothness keeps it from being fatiguing, unless it’s also paired with an exceptionally punchy amp and headphone.  And even then some people may still love that sound.  With most amps, it adds an often looked for sense of punch, smoothness and warmth compared to most other DACs in its price range.
 
In the end, I think the $999 price is fair.  It’s not in the land of stupendous values, like say, the Schitt Modi Multibit.  But it certainly isn’t overpriced at all, you get what you pay for and a little bit more.  I think this would be fairly priced up to about $1500-1700.  So, it’s a good deal at $999.  There isn’t another DAC at $1000 or less that I think clearly beats it.  Some DACs offer something different, but nothing that I can look at and say “this is clearly better.”  It’s not until Yggy that I can point to something and say “yeah, that’s just definitely better.”
 
For me, personally, I am considering selling mine.  Not because I’m disappointed with it at all, it just sits in a weird position for *my* setup.  With my amp, it’s a touch more dynamic than I really ideally want.  The TorpedoIII amp in my system recently had an upgrade called output constant current supplies; after this upgrade, the TIII took a fairly massive leap forward in quality and became a more dynamic, harder hitting amp.  Before this upgrade the iDAC6 was ideal for my HD800 rig.  After, I wanted a tiny bit more detail, and a tiny bit less dynamicism out of my DAC.  This has me leaning towards GuMBy.  I currently have the iDAC6 in my secondary setup feeding the HiFiMan EF2C, which is a bit of an odd pairing.  My main pairing is the Schitt Modi Multibit feeding the TorpedoIII.  My long term move is likely moving the ModiMultibit to the secondary setup and side-grade moving the iDAC6 and buying a GuMBy.  I think the GuMBy’s softer, slightly more detailed profile may work better in *my* setup.  However, again, I want to stress this isn’t a want for quality, but a bit better system synergy between DAC and amp, given my headphones.  To be fair to iDAC6, I even thought Yggy was a bit too dynamic in my setup, GuMBy seemed *just right*. (thanks to Sorrdje for helping me think through this, btw).
 
That all being said, I also like this DAC so much that part of me is considering keeping it, just in case my future system takes another direction, and I again want this slightly warm, very detailed and spacious, highly dynamic sound from a DAC.
Sonic Defender
Sonic Defender
That was a useful and interesting review, makes me feel that I have heard the iDAC6.
Brooklyn70
Brooklyn70
How well do you think it will pair with the schiit mjolnir 2 and the jotunheim

fjrabon

Headphoneus Supremus
Pros: Sub Bass, Mid bass, lower mids, forward presentation, smooth, soundstage for closed headphone, good detail, warm, fun, smooth energetic treble
Cons: imaging accuracy, upper midrange/lower treble are a bit wonky, non-detachable 10 foot cable
 
 
Intro - Context for the purchase (Read this if you want to understand where I am coming from when relating to this headphone.  I like to create a narrative to my reviews, but strictly speaking this portion isn't actually about the headphone, but rather helping to understand my frame of reference).  
This hobby can make people do strange things, well, besides sinking hundreds (errr thousands) of dollars into it.  As I was coming up in the world of headphone audio, my first three headphones were the AudioTechnica AD700, Grado SR60i and Denon AH-D1001.  I liked the trio a lot, and I own and enjoy all of them still except the SR60i (I have an SR80e now).  These were my gateway drugs, and they also helped inform what I was after in a headphone.  While I thought the AD700 was the best of the three overall, the one I found myself listening to the most often was the D1001.
 
The D1001 was closed, easy to drive, portable, comfortable, and it had this V shaped sound signature I loved, with punchy mid-bass, yet clear present vocals.  As I “moved up” I eventually reached the pinnacle of that sound, staying within the Denon (made by Fostex) line, with the D7000.  
 
The D7000 was a revelation for me.  Having saved cash and also selling my AudioTechnica M50 to get it, it was everything I wanted at the time.  I bought it used for $650 (it was, at the time, a $1000 headphone new, and $650 was a steal for it, probably because it had been re-terminated with a 3.5mm end, which at the time was an admission of having an inferior rig).  I loved it.  I loved everything about it.  I loved the look, I found the powerful U shape of the signature intoxicating. The soundstage was better than everything I had heard except the AD700. The smoothness was intoxicating.  I could have probably kept that headphone and been happy for the rest of my life.  It was a huge investment for a kid spending his first real job paycheck (that should have gone to other bills) straight out of college.  
 
But, like a lot of people here, I kept reading Head-Fi.  The D7000, while generally praised, wasn’t considered a “serious” headphone.  It wasn’t “reference” and people who liked non-reference headphones were morally deficient, or something.  They weren’t being “true to the artist’s vision” or were showing off their commoner, unrefined tastes.  It was fine to maybe own a D7000 as a side headphone to your main, proper, setup, but to have it be your primary was something of an embarrassment.  
 
So, I sold the D7000, saved some more cash, and bought my first “real reference” setup.  A Sennheiser HD650, a bifrost DAC and a Darkvoice OTL tube amp.  Eventually I would sell the Darkvoice and get a Schiit Lyr.  
 
Now, I liked the HD650, and I don’t really regret the move, but I ALWAYS missed the D7000.  I still owned the D1001, which could provide some of the fun, but nowhere even close to the refinement, and pure sense of joy the D7000 gave me.  I have owned, and sold a decent amount of gear over the years, and the D7000 is the only headphone I’d ever missed.  
 
Over the years, D7000s became even harder to come by, as Denon stopped contracting Foster/Fostex to make their headphones.  There was the Fostex TH series, but they were expensive, and not exactly the D7000 either.  
 
My first usage of Massdrop was the Grace m9XX.  I love that thing.  I couldn’t believe that a product like that, that frankly blew away setups I had owned costing 4 times as much, was that good, that affordable and that well done.  Then I saw Jude’s post announcing the THX00.
 
This seemed like as close as I was going to get to a D7000 without scouring classifieds and hoping that I got a lightly used and/or well taken care of used pair.  And they were priced at $399. Realistically, I had little expectation that they would be exactly as good as the D7000 was.  The D7000 was over $1000 when it came out in the early 2000s.  But if they came reasonably close I’d be happy, especially given the price.
 
At first though, I kinda balked.  I had just spent $299 on the HiFiMan HE400i, and $499 on the Grace m9XX.  These weren’t in my budget.  I already owned Shure SRH840s that I was very happy with.  I also didn’t love the idea of a 10 foot cord with a 1/4” termination.  At this point I have committed myself to every headphone I own being drivable from an iPhone and at least portable enough to walk around my house with.  However, the allure of getting something like my beloved D7000 back won out.  I could afford it, even if it wasn’t strictly in the budget, and a re-cable isn’t the hardest thing in the world, right guys? Sure, yeah, it’s a DEAL, right?  How can you say no at that price?  I couldn’t.  
 
Turns out a lot of others couldn’t say no either.  The drop, I believe Massdrop’s largest to date at 2000 units, sold out 8 days before the scheduled end date.  I actually received my headphones before they were originally scheduled to ship out in the first place.  
Unboxing/Accessories:
Unboxing was a bit underwhelming, Massdrop pulled out no stops, there was a 1/4” to 3.5mm converter in the packaging box, not even the product box.  The product box was as plain black and white as possible.  The packaging material was simply cleverly folded cardboard.  There was the headphone and a pleather Fostex bag, and that was it.  But it was understandable, This was a clear attempt to do everything they could to give us as quality of a headphone as possible, at as cheap of a price as possible.  Not having to impress buyers on a shelf, they could punt on the packaging.  One quick word about the bag, turn it inside out and it makes for a great cleaning cloth for the headphone’s gloss finish.  It’s got some sort of microfiber lining that gives a really nice buff to the finish.  The included adapter isn’t very great, and if you’re going to use it more than occasionally, I’d suggest replacing it with a much better Sennheiser or Grado adapter.  I would also highly suggest when putting your headphones in the bag, put the cable on the outside and use the excess string from the cinch chord to tie around and secure the cable.  This will prevent the large metal 1/4” plug from banging into the cups and potentially messing up the finish on the pretty wood cups.
Aesthetics/Pads/Cable:
About those wood cups.  They’re gorgeous.  I think the finish was very tastefully applied to let the mahogany really show.  With the TH900, the look is all about the finish.  From a glance they aren’t even recognizable as wood.  With the THX00, it’s all about the wood.  Depending on the angle of the light, they can totally change appearance, from a light blonde to a caramel color to a dark amber to a rich brown.  Often times different parts of the grain will simultaneously exhibit multiple of these.  They almost have a 3-D look to the finish due to this.
 
The pleather (whatever an eggshell protein is) pads are fairly massive, characterized by two large humps in the front and the back.  The padding is soft to the touch, but supported underneath.  They’re certainly not hard, but they’re not a floppy pillow either.  The band is similar.  There’s no padding, but due to the cup design and the even distribution on the headband, I literally can’t feel it on my head.  If you have a “sharper” shape to the top of your head (ie something like a less extreme conehead) you may not find these comfortable, but for me, the headband is shockingly comfortable given that it has 0 padding.  The connections between the band and the cups are magnesium. I’ve seen people call this cheap plastic, no, it’s magnesium, which is metal, they didn’t seem to take a shortcut in build quality at all.  As far as I can tell the only plastic on the entire assembly is the ring that the earpads attach to.  
The cable… Well, the cable is what it is, some people will love it, some will tolerate it and some will hate it.  It’s not detachable.  No Fostex headphone has ever had a detachable cable as far as I am aware.  Because of this Fostex didn’t even have the ability to manufacture a detachable cable without retooling part of their factory, which would have added a couple of hundred dollars to the price.  Yeah, I’d prefer a detachable cable, but not if it raised the price to over $500.  It’s long, 10 feet.  It has a nice 1/4” termination.  It’s immediately similar to what I remember of my old Denon D7000, it may even be the exact same.  As soon as I’m done traveling, I plan on sending mine off to have the cable cut down to 4.5 feet and reterminated to 3.5mm.  I then plan on having the excess cut off end keep the 1/4” termination, and add a 3.5mm female jack, essentially making the leftover 5.5 feet into an extension cable that converts the 3.5mm to 1/4”.  This will allow me to go from a can that can be portable to a home/office sit down listener easily.  The nylon sheath on it is nice and the cable doesn’t tangle or kink easily.  It’s a good quality cable, its just non-detachable, 10 feet long and has a 1/4” termination.  If that’s the cable you want, you’re in luck, if not you’ll have to have recabling (or in my case just modification) done.
 
A bit about pads.  A lot of people have already obsessively been trading various pads out with these, in order to ‘fix” various issues those users have with the pads.  Some wanted leather.  Some wanted a more spacious cup housing. Some wanted to change the sound signature.  I like the presentation that the stock pads give, so I haven’t done that.  I’ll probably at some point experiment with the Brainwaves lambskin pads, but for this review they were stock.  I personally like them.  Note however, that the pads rotate.  Experiment a lot with rotating them, because they substantially improved a noticeable amount when I got mine rotated *just* right for my ears.  Soundstage, bass impact and clarity all improved and comfort drastically so, in contrast to the way they felt straight out of the box.  I guess I have slightly asymmetrical ears, because my left pad was rotated slightly more counterclockwise than the right was.  
Amp Pairings:
Now, finally, on to the sound.  Well, almost.  Before I go on, I want to talk a bit about amp pairings with this, what I tried, what I settled on as being best for it, so that it’s clear what all my sound impressions following will be based on.  At least this is related to the sound, if it’s not actually a description of the sound.
 
The THX00 is a very efficient headphone, an iPhone can get it very loud without even coming close to maxing out the iPhone’s volume control.  I can’t even touch it to my ears with my iPhone on max volume.  In some ways of thinking, that makes it an easy headphone to amp, and some may even say it doesn’t need an amp at all.  
 
There’s long been this idea on head-fi that amp pairing is some sort of voodoo, or that the only way to get a good “synergistic” pairing is blind trial and error.  I remember when I first joined, lots of people paired AKG K701s with DarkVoice OTL tube amps that had like 32 ohm output impedance.  Nobody really understood damping and how low impedance headphones usually needed lots of current.  The introduction of the O2 changed a lot of that.  
 
The THX00 is a very current hungry headphone.  This is the most important thing to understand when deciding on an amp pairing.  It’s not going to sound good at all out of an OTL tube amp with high output impedance.  In fact, it would probably sound better out of your iPhone in that case.  Our friend Ohm’s law says that for any given voltage, current rises as output impedance goes down. So, since the THX00 is current hungry, it’s important that you amp it with something with low output impedance.  The original Vali (which didn’t have a gain switch) sounded pretty mediocre to bad with the THX00, as it was a hybrid amp with almost 6 ohm output impedance.  The O2 sounded much better, with its sub 1 output impedance.  The Grace m9XX sounded best, in my opinion, of anything I tried it with, not surprising given the Grace’s 0.08 ohm output impedance.  
 
I think it also pairs best with Class A amps, or at the very least class A/B amps with a high degree measure.  I don't want to go into the finer details of class A vs Class A/B, but essentially it comes down to class A has "current on demand" whereas Class A/B, due to its switching nature, can be a bit more sluggish in delivering its current to the headphone.  Some Class A/B amps, this isn't really as big of an issue, as they are "on" for almost the entirety of the 360 degree cycle, whereas some are off for half of it.  Regardless though, Class A is the gold standard here.
 
I didn’t like tubes with it.  I think the THX00 often straddles the line with bass control, and tubes really didn’t help that at all.  Especially since most tube amps are higher output impedance anyway.  To me a good, linear solid state amp with as low of output impedance as possible is what you want driving these.  The bass quality improves dramatically, most of the bloat that some reviewers noting going completely away, the bass texture dramatically improving, and the smoothness of the treble improving as well.  I think the THX00 sounds pretty great straight out of an iPhone, but the *right* amp (not necessarily the most expensive or powerful amp) takes it to a higher level of refinement.  While the THX00 isn’t particularly “difficult” to amp, at least in the way that the HiFiMan HE6 is hard to amp, it is very amp picky.  anything with over 4 ohms of output impedance and the bass is immediately, very obviously noticeably flabby. Usually my AudioEngine D1 plays well with low impedance headphones even though it’s 10 Ohms.  Not here, it became a bloat monster.  Sometimes in a fun way, but a bloat monster none the less.  The Vali sounded bad.  My old Starving Student Hybrid was laughably bloated, the bass just going all kinds of ways and becoming overwhelming.  The Grace m9XX, Magni 2 Uber, Lyr in low gain solid state mode and O2 were all very good pairings, showing the powerful, yet tight and textured bass in all its glory.  
 
From here on out, the Grace m9XX will be what I am using for all further descriptions of its sound, unless explicitly stated otherwise.  It’s been said that these headphones seemed to have been tuned with the m9XX in mind, and it seems hard to argue the point.  They’re a perfect pairing, and the m9XX was sitting on Will from massdrop’s desk in all the pictures of him working on the tuning notes he sent to Fostex.  And while all these further listening notes are based on the m9XX, they would more or less apply to any solid state, linear, sub 1 ohm output impedance solid state amp.  
 
If you want Grace m9XX specific settings I used, I had crossfeed enabled 95% of the time, on filter F3.  Volume was usually between 50 and 65 (usually in the lower end of that range, with the very occasional rock out high volume session for under 10 minutes.)  Sources were Macbook Pro and iPhone.  Software used was iTunes, Foobar and Tidal.  Mostly iTunes.  Files were a mixture in nearly even parts of FLAC, Apple Lossless and 256 kbps AAC.  A few very occasional 128 kbps mp3 just to see how the headphones handled lower quality sources.
Burn-in/Isolation:
A note about burn-in.  I generally think it’s mostly overblown, and is much more your brain adjusting to the sound as it is anything about the actual headphone changing.  In my mind there are really on a handful of exceptions: tube amps and the large diameter bio-dyna drivers from Fostex.  The construction of these aren’t normal, and they probably experience the greatest improvement with burn in, even if not on your head at the time, of any headphone I’ve ever heard.  Burn these things in for about 50 hours and you will hear a noticeable difference.  The overall signature won’t change, but the bass control, transient distortions, clarity and smoothness are all enhanced with burn out.  At the time of the review these had 180 total hours, 50 of which were actual listening.
 
In regards to Isolation, it’s sort of somewhere between semi-closed and closed.  Essentially it has a gap around where the cup meets the frame, and some bass ports.  These allow some sound to go in and out.  They probably allow more sound in than they do out.  These ports are similar to bass ports in a full-range speaker, and are part of what gives these things their legendary bass.  Every Fostex TH and Denon DX000 series headphone has had them.  I listen at moderate levels, and my office mate, sitting 6 feet away can’t hear them.  I can hear the phone ring, but I can’t hear myself type when music is playing.  I wouldn’t take these on a plane, but I think they’re fine for office work, unless you listen at hearing damaging levels.  
 
So… Finally… The Sound:
 
Starting with the various parts of the frequency response:
 
Bass (9.5/10 overall) - quantity 9.5/10, impact 9.5/10, texture 9/10, control 8/10
 
The bass is rocking.  You probably knew that if you have done ANY research on this headphone, but let’s go a bit more in detail.  Headphone bass will always be wonky, because when your brain processes bass in the real world, it gets bass as much from absorption by the body as by the ear hearing it.  Sub bass in the real world is as much felt in your chest as it’s heard by your ears.  As such, it is my firm belief that no headphone bass will ever get it truly right.  It doesn’t matter how it is tuned, you’re throwing away half the equation with headphone bass.  It’s not just a difference in amount of bass either, it’s a different quality and sensation when your chest is absorbing bass.  That being said, there’s a certain naturalness of bass presentation that comes from a headphone with truly powerful bass.  It seems to compensate for some of the lack of body absorption of the bass, and sounds a little bit more true to life.  If you’re just focusing on the bass, these will get you a tiny bit closer to what a natural perception of bass seems like.  It’s a full powerful bass that seems a bit more lively and lifelike than headphone bass that measures neutral.  It won’t rival a truly well-tuned speaker system though, with great subs and midrange speakers, setup correctly in a room, with a correctly tuned crossover.  
 
These headphones tread a fine balance, and they tread it very well.  In order to give that full bass presentation, they verge on bloat at times.  But they rarely ever drift quite into bloat.  They stay *just* in control the vast majority of time.  There’s a mild midbass hump here, like most dynamic headphones.  The sub bass is slightly rolled off, but less so than any dynamic headphone I’ve heard except the TH900.  The bass seems to hit its peak at 50-80Hz.  midbass slam is very song appropriate.  It doesn’t turn everything into bass mash, but if you have a song with bass, it slams like you want it, when you want it.  
 
Super Massive Black Hole by Muse has one of the most epic kick drums of all time.  You can actually hear the character of the plate reverb they use on it with a headphone with quality bass.  The beat on the downbeat of beat 1 will be hard, tight and fast.  But at other times it hits and holds on an upbeat, and you can hear the characteristic “shake with a slight low pitched metallic sort of watery sound” of plate reverb.  On a headphone with mediocre bass control, these all sound the same.  The THX00 correctly shows the exact texture that should be present in a good system.  And the slam is epic here, just like it should be, without obscuring the rest of the song.  
 
Beck’s E-Pro has a tight midbass thump in the intro that gets reproduced powerfully and accurately.  The chorus, however, has an ultra low sub bass thump that many headphones can’t reproduce at all.  In the mastering, this was made so that it would be felt more than heard when the song was played in a dance club with massive subs.  It was designed so that you could FEEL the chorus hit.  It gives the chorus a sort of palpable energy and drive that you really feel without being conscious of when dancing.  The THX00 actually reproduces it.  On a bass light headphone, like an AD700, it isn’t even audible.  On normal headphones you have to really strain to *maybe* hear it.  On my SR225e I notice it because I know it’s there, but probably wouldn’t be able to notice it if I wasn’t already aware.  On the THX00 it’s there and provides a deep power to the chorus that’s addicting.
 
On Nine Inch Nails’s Closer, the bass has a quick “double tap” pulse to the bass that many basshead headphones (*cough* M50X *cough*) blurs into a single pulse.  The THX00 clearly distinguishes it.  The bass is powerful, but textured and accurate.  Truly impressive for a dynamic headphone.
 
The bass here is clearly elevated in level above neutral, on some songs this sounds natural, but on some songs, especially those where there’s a lot of upper-mid-bass, it can alter the intended mix of the song.  Dire Straits’s Lady Writer, for example, the bass becomes overbearing in the mix.  It sounds good as far as quality goes, but it’s much more forward in the mix than it should be, the song almost becomes an extended bass solo with some backing vocals underneath.  The flipside is that in a lot of old school R&B and soul, the bass is brought forward in the mix in a *good* way, the mix is changed for the better.  Al Green, Tired of Being Alone, the added bass presence and weight really brings the song alive.  It’s the song as maybe it *should* have been mastered, as opposed to how it *was* mastered.  In mixed results territory, John Coltrane’s Giant Steps sees Coltrane’s sax and the bass get nearly equal billing, in a way that’s interesting, almost like a remix of the song, where the sax and bass play counterpoint off one another, as opposed to the intended mastering where the bass provides drive underneath for Coltrane’s furious blowing.
 
A great aspect of these headphones though is that, should you wish, they handle EQ very well, and you can actually EQ the mid bass down a touch, bringing it even with the sub bass, such that the bass presentation is virtually flat, almost planar like bass.  Some headphones lose all kinds of control in the bass and become an unwieldy mess when you try to “fix” the sub bass with EQ.  Not here, these handle it well.
 
These are clearly basshead headphones, but they’re what I think of as “gentlemanly” basshead headphones.  They’re not one trick ponies like the Darth Beyers are.  And the bass blends well.  The bass comes on when called upon, but doesn’t usually insert itself where it isn’t.  Occasionally it elevates a bass line, kick drum, or tom in the mix in an unnatural way, but largely this effect is pleasing.  We should notice that the bass presence frequencies (100Hz-400Hz), in addition to the bass fundamental frequencies (50Hz-200Hz), are also forward.  Kick drums and bass thus sound immediate, present AND thunderous.  I have “oh my god the drums on this track are EPIC!” in my notes roughly 30 times.  If you enjoy drums, you will LOVE these headphones.
 
 
Midrange 6/10 - (smoothness 8/10, clarity 7/10, linearity 4/10, lower 8/10, upper 4/10)
 
(one note here, I am going to call the band from 1.5-4kHz “upper midrange” some will call this a combination of “upper midrange” and “lower treble.”  To be able to talk about this range coherently, I am going to lump them all in here as upper midrange)
 
One would expect the lower midrange to hopefully also be powerful, as otherwise the headphones would suffer from a lack of linearity in this range, and start sounding wonky.  And that is thankfully true.  The lower midrange on these headphones is pleasingly powerful.  Rhythm guitars sound rich and powerful.  male vocals and lower pitched female vocals (think Fiona Apple, Mavis Staples, Toni Braxton and Adele) are smooth, rich and powerful.  Otis Redding in Tired of Being Alone has his powerful, plaintive pleading vocal reproduced with mastery.  Fiona Apple’s voice in Criminal is rich, sultry and powerful.  Toni Braxton in Unbreak My Heart is goosebump inducing.  Guitarists who like to riff a lot are rewarded with a rich throaty tone.  The riff to Led Zeppelin’s In My Time of Dying is impressively powerful and dynamic.  
 
The story changes a bit as we start to reach the upper midrange though.  We sort of knew this had to come sometime, as we all knew the THX00 is U shaped, and if some aspect of the frequency response wasn’t at least a little recessed, it would be neutral and not a U-shaped basshead can.  Everything can’t be given equal billing in a basshead can, in that case it isn’t a basshead can.  And this is where it manifests.  The upper midrange is a bit recessed.  Where this is most clearly apparent is that some female voices can be a bit wonky or recessed.  Females who have wider ranges and males who have higher pitched voices can sound especially strange, as their vocals can transition from the powerful and present lower midrange to the upper midrange, all within a single song or even a single part of a melody.  Joni Mitchell, for example, treads right on that line.  It’s like she doesn’t consistently sing into the mic, her vocal tonality is very inconsistent because of this, it can sound disconcertingly weird, like the producer didn’t know what he was doing.  Florence and the Machine’s Dog Days has a similar effect, it sounds as if she can’t keep her mouth pointed at the mic consistently, and then leans in too much sometimes.  Guitar solos that span the range of the fretboard can sound like the guitarist is changing his picking dynamics, leaning into the low end of the solo more than the high end.  Neil Young’s falsetto-ish wail in Helpless from Deja Vu sounds a bit veiled in comparison to a flatter headphone like the HD650.  On Pink Floyd’s Comfortably Numb, the verse vocals are distant, while the chorus vocals (sang at a higher pitch) are crisp, airy and present.  The vocals in the Dixie Chicks’ Cowboy Take Me Away sound very thin and veiled.  The guitars in the Jayhawks’ Blue sound a bit far back and veiled in the mix, like the acoustic guitars are being played behind a blanket.  Marvin Gaye sounds distant in Let’s Get It On’s higher portions, like he’s creepily singing an ode to casual sex from outside your window.  It can get even weirder if the singer has a truly epic vocal range that can go from lower midrange to upper midrange to treble.  Mariah Carey’s vocals could do this thing where they would go from powerful and present when she was doing a deep throaty part, to distant in her normal range, to back to present when she hits those incredibly high falsetto notes that only she can really hit.  Pianos have their twinkle tamed, which at times can be pleasant, but often in jazz puts them further back than they already were.  Gil Evans’ piano in So What from Kind Of Blue gets completely lost in the mix at times.  
 
This quality is why I don’t think these are great headphones for classical music, by and large, though they certainly aren’t bad.  Daniel Barenboim and the English Chamber Orchestra featuring Itzakh Perlman (chief soloist) on BWV 1042: 1 is a great example.  Perlman’s violin tone, normally rich and intoxicating becomes a bit hollow.  The upper midrange parts of the orchestra become indistinct and blurry.  The St. Louis Symphony Orchestra’s rendition of Rhapsody in Blue sounds overall veiled, as it’s a melody that the upper midrange carries for large stretches of the tune.  
 
My ultimate issue with the midrange isn’t that it’s a bit recessed (and lord knows it’s much less recessed than in the TH600 and TH900), it’s that I wish the recession was a bit smoother and less abrupt.  If the lower midgrange kind of gradually lowered, and then continued smoothly lowering into the upper midrange, it would be a lot less wonky.  However, the dip in the upper midrange is a bit abrupt.  This is more noticeable because it’s almost immediately followed with another spike in the treble from 6kHz to about 9 kHz.  
 
It is by no means a bad midrange.  For a closed headphone I’d even the call the midrange a good bit better than average.  It’s smooth, never fatiguing, and rich in the lower register.  And the upper midrange hole isn’t as bad as I just made it sound.  But it is a flaw in the otherwise nearly flawless tuning of this headphone.  If you were going to pull a bit of the frequency response out in a basshead can, that’s exactly where you would pull it out.  I just wish it was done with a bit more deft subtlety.  It was a touch ham-fisted, which makes some sense, since a lot of the tuning was done with the somewhat blunt instrument of pad swapping, rather than an exhaustive, from the ground up, redesign.    It’s a nit, certainly, as I’m essentially complaining that this isn’t a bass-heavy R10, as if it fixed some of these flaws is what it would be.  It’s not that headphone. 
 
Which Brings us to:
 
Treble 8/10 - (presence 8/10, clarity 7/10, extension 7/10, airiness 7/10, smoothness 9/10)
 
While this is certainly a basshead can, it’s not a basshead can in the way the Audeze LCD series are, for example.  Some basshead cans have a very relaxed treble.  Here the treble is very forward and energetic, though it never drifts into sibilance like its big brother , the TH900, often does.  The treble extension from 12-18kHz is good, not great.  It’s not an HD800 in terms of treble extension, but its treble extension isn’t anything to complain about either.  
 
This present treble makes for a very forward presentation.  This is a “first row” headphone.  If the HD650 sounds like you’re hanging out by the soundboard at a show, the THX00 sounds like you’re about to get kicked out for trying to climb on stage.  
 
Cymbals sound great, present without being sibilant.  Again, it’s like they tuned this thing specifically for drums in a lot of ways.  Snares are crisp without being obnoxious.  Now, in some poorly mastered songs the treble can be a bit harsh.  The hi-hat in Mariah Carey’s Dreamlover will cut your face off, and is hard to ignore.  Trumpets can really cut, in some cases pleasantly, in some cases weirdly.  Miles Davis in So What, for example has his trumpet sound very present, but lacks body (due to the lack of upper midrange).  The upper midrange wonkiness is thus related, as, again, it can throw the timbre of instruments and vocals off from time to time in this specific range of the frequency band.  
 
The treble does impart a nice sense of air to vocals though, James Brown’s vocals in Cold Sweat have never sounded cleaner.  All those vocals that were in the lower midrange for the fundamental now see their presence frequencies make them sound present too.  The vocals in Bodhisattva by Steely Dan are very forward, crisp and airy.  
 
I like the Treble on these a lot.  Nothing stands out about the treble, which is to say they don’t do anything offensive.  A lot of headphones do a lot of offensive things in the treble, so this is a win.  It’s not the best treble I’ve ever heard (HiFiMan HE560), but it is very, very good.  It’s smooth yet forward, which is a considerable feat in a close headphone.  This was stated by Will from Massdrop as being the primary focus of the tuning, and I have to say job well done there.  
 
Other aspects of the sound as a whole:
 
Speed: 7/10.  
 
It’s fast for a closed headphone.  But it can run into issues with very complicated fast passages with congestion.  There are some unresolved damping issues, but not nearly as bad as, for example, an unmodified Denon D5000 or D2000.  Certainly not as slow as the AT M50X. It’s fast enough to handle metal decently (and the bass attack can certainly make certain genres of metal fun)
 
Smoothness: 9/10 
 
There’s virtually no grain, the peaks aren’t harsh.  No sibilance, the bass never distorts.  This is a recipe for a smooth headphone, which is extremely impressive for a U shaped headphone, which usually suffers to varying degrees from all those issues.  If the bass is the star of the show everybody is paying to see (Mick Jagger), and the energetic treble and forward presentation is the supporting superstar (Keith Richards and Mick Taylor), then the smoothness is the bed that it lays in that makes it sound so great (Charlie Watts and Bill Wyman).  
 
Transparency: 7/10 
 
excellent for a closed headphone.  Isn’t going to best upper mid-fi open headphones like the HD600, any HiFiMan or AKG K7.. series though.  While everything is clear, you don’t get that sense of “hearing through” these.  They aren’t a “close your eyes and swear you’re there” headphone.  They’re clear though.
 
Soundstage: 7/10 (depth 7/10, width 8/10)
 
excellent for a closed headphone.  It’s forward, but has depth.  Instead of having the soundstage smushed together all at the front, like the M50 does, it still retains the depth, just shifting everything a bit forward.  There’s great layering here.  On Metallica’s No Leaf Clover from S&M, the depth between Hetfield’s vocals (front row) to the drums (a bit back) to the bass (a bit further back) to the orchestra (much further back) is staggering to hear.  The size of the hall is clearly audible.  Width is natural.  It’s not the widest headphone there is, but it is very coherently wide.  Things sound like the width they should be.  If you’re one of those people that like your soundstage to sound like things are floating in space with no connection, these aren’t for you.  If you want a relatively realistic reflection of the intended space of the hall, just from sitting in the front row, these are very good.  
 
Openness: 5/10
 
excellent for a closed headphone, you don’t get a sense of claustrophobia wearing it.  But, it’s not open either.  Unsurprisingly it’s between a typical open headphone and a typical closed headphone
 
Imaging: 5/10 (left/right 5/10, forward/back 6/10)
 
Imaging clarity is probably the weakest aspect of the THX00 other than the upper midrange/lower treble dip.  Instrument location, especially L/R imaging accuracy can be a bit blurred.  depth imaging is pretty good, especially for a closed headphone.  The depth imaging would be even better, but the hole means that sometimes instruments/vocals “wonder around” as they or their presence frequencies pass through the upper midrange/lower treble.  That being said, it’s still average here, not bad on the level of, say, a Grado SR60 or the ATHM50.  The width of the soundstage helps, as while the images are not always precise, there’s enough separation that you can still keep instruments from running into each other in the image.  
 
Conclusion:
 
This is a truly great, refined, basshead headphone.  It doesn’t do anything poorly.  It does several things extremely well (bass and smoothness).  It does have some slight weaknesses (wonky dip in the in upper midrange/lower treble, not the strongest imaging).  It’s good, but not great in most other areas.  While it’s not the final word in resolution, it won’t offend there either.  It’s good looking, I find it comfortable.  And more than anything it’s a fun headphone as long as you aren’t expecting reference level neutrality.  It is an absolute steal at $399.  It’s a $700 headphone, at least.  It would be a bargain at $700, in fact.  It has class leading bass performance (I don’t consider the TH900 or any Audeze offerings as being in its class, costing nearly 3X as much).  My only hope for this headphone was that it would get back some of the joy I experienced with the D7000, and I'd say it succeeded there, and then some, for roughly half the Price of what the D7000 originally cost.  
 
A Note about EQ:  Eq can largely repair the mid-range issue, if you so desire.  To give you a rough idea of how I EQ these, here is a simplistic adjustment I sometimes use when I use iTunes.  It retains the overall character of the headphones (none of the cuts are more than 3dB), but irons out a bit of the wonkiness, and makes the bass a bit more linear, while still remaining squarely a basshead can.
 
Screenshot2015-12-17at09.46.05PM.png
 
 
Head-to-head comparisons I was able to make with somewhat comparable range headphones:
 
Here I will list a headphone and use a series of “>” signs to indicate how much better or worse the headphone is in this regard.  So, for example, The THX00 vs the AT M50X in soundstage width will be THX00>>>>>M50X, indication that the THX00 soundstage is SUBSTANTIALLY better.
= is, well, equal
> means perceivably better, but not a major difference
>> means much better
>>> is substantially superior
>>>> + is “in a completely different league”  
 
THX00 Vs Shure SRH840
 
Linearity: SRH840>>THX00
SubBass (clarity, smoothness, control, linearity, extension): THX00>>>>>SRH840
MidBass (clarity, smoothness, control and linearity): THX00>SRH840
Midrange(clarity, smoothness, control and linearity): SRH840>>THX00
Treble (clarity, smoothness, control, linearity and extension): THX00=SRH840 (THX00 a touch more treble extension, SRH840 a bit more linear)
Soundstage: THX00>>SRH840
L/R Imaging: THX00 = SRH840
Depth/layering imaging: THX00 > SRH840
Comfort: THX00 >> SRH840
Isolation: SRH840 >>> THX00
 
THX00 Vs Audio Technica M50X
 
Linearity: THX00 > M50X
SubBass (clarity, smoothness, control, linearity, extension): THX00 >> M50X
MidBass (clarity, smoothness, control and linearity): THX00 >> M50X
Midrange(clarity, smoothness, control and linearity): THX00 >>>> M50X
Treble (clarity, smoothness, control, linearity and extension): THX00 >>>>>> M50X
Soundstage: THX00 >>>>>>> M50X
L/R Imaging: THX00 >>>>>> M50X
Depth/layering imaging: THX00 >>>>>>> M50X
Comfort: THX00 >>> M50X
Isolation: M50X >>> THX00
 
THX00 vs Fostex TH900
 
Linearity: THX00 >> TH900
SubBass (clarity, smoothness, control, linearity, extension): TH900 >> THX00
MidBass (clarity, smoothness, control and linearity): TH900 > THX00
Midrange(clarity, smoothness, control and linearity): THX00 >> TH900
Treble (clarity, smoothness, control, linearity and extension): THX00 = TH900 (TH900 extends better, is clearer.  THX00 is smoother and more linear)
Soundstage: TH900 > THX00
L/R Imaging: TH900 > THX00
Depth/layering imaging: THX00 > TH900
Comfort: THX00 = TH900
Isolation: THX00 = TH900
 
THX00 vs Sennheiser HD650
 
Linearity: HD650 >> THX00
SubBass (clarity, smoothness, control, linearity, extension): THX00 >>> HD650
MidBass (clarity, smoothness, control and linearity): THX00 >> HD650
Midrange(clarity, smoothness, control and linearity): HD650 >>>> THX00
Treble (clarity, smoothness, control, linearity and extension): HD650 > THX00
Soundstage: HD650 >>> THX00
L/R Imaging: HD650 >>> THX00
Depth/layering imaging: HD650 > THX00
Comfort: THX00= HD650
Isolation: THX00 >>> HD650
 
THX00 vs HiFiMan HE400i
 
Linearity: HE400i >>> THX00
SubBass (clarity, smoothness, control, linearity, extension): THX00 > HE400i
MidBass (clarity, smoothness, control and linearity): THX00 >> HE400i
Midrange(clarity, smoothness, control and linearity): HE400i >>>> THX00
Treble (clarity, smoothness, control, linearity and extension): HE400i >> THX00
Soundstage: HE400i >> THX00
L/R Imaging: HE400i >>>>> THX00
Depth/layering imaging: HE400i > THX00
Comfort: HE400i > THX00
Isolation: THX00 >>> HE400i
Zbell
Zbell
@[b]fjrabon[/b], really enjoyed your honest review and posts and I'm thinking about jumping on the new drop for the Fostex TH-X00 Purple Hearts.  I was wondering if you think the Purple Hearts will fix some of the midrange and bloated bass problems of the TH-X00 Mahogany?  Lower midrange decreased by about 5 dB and upper midrange decreased by about 2 dB, coupled with more emphasis on the highs seems like improvements to me, albeit small ones.  Throw in extended highs and and no resonance at 3K and 6K Hz and this seems like a no-brainer.  Am i being naive to think that the PH will bring these cans to another level?
bisonkron
bisonkron
Great write up! Thanks for all the info. 
treyking11
treyking11
thank you! i love my TH-X00's, came hear to read how they pair with the Grace m9xx. looks like i will be getting that as well... damn you massdrop!

fjrabon

Headphoneus Supremus
Pros: small size, build quality, features, spaciousness, liveliness
Cons: Slightly underpowered for hard to drive headphones, no marking on volume knob
I was looking for a work solution to drive my relatively low impedance headphones I use at work (Shure SRH840 and Grado SR225e), while also being able to feed my powered desktop speakers (BOSE companion II).  As I don't do critical listening at work, I didn't need the highest level of audio quality, but I needed something small and portable so that I could easily put it in my briefcase when leaving for the weekends, etc.  I also wanted it to look okay, but have a fairly small footprint.  I looked at a lot of products and ended up trying this and the HiFiman EF2A.  They both seemed to fit my needs of a AMP/DAC combo in an attractive, small package.  
 
My expectations were that the HiFiMan would sound better and look better on my desk while the Audioengine would be more easily transportable.  
 
While the HiFiMan did look somewhat better, it looked kind of ugly from behind, and didn't have a convenient spot on my desk.  The Audioengine on the other hand, while not being a talking piece, was much more convenient on my desk, and its design aesthetic gelled well with my Macbook Pro, Bose desktop speakers and the headphones I was using it with.  The HiFiMan looked somewhat out of place.  
 
Soundwise, I expected the HiFiman to sound better, but that turned out to not be the case at all.  If anything, the humble D1 blew the HiFiMan away.  First, with low impedence, easy to drive headphones, the HiFiMan was mostly useless, as it had major channel imbalance issues up until you got past 1/4 power.  However, for easy to drive headphones, much past 1/4 power was at earsplitting levels.  The d1, on the other hand was perfectly balanced at all levels.  Sound on the D1 cut out when it was below 8 oclock (I know there aren't markings on the D1, I'll explain below), but was completely balanced and noise free at all levels.  The HifiMan, on the other hand, had an extremely narrow band where it was usable, and you had to constantly adjust it based on the recording.  
 
Further, given the headphones I was using both had 1/8" terminations, I decided that there was no use even spending any more time with the HiFiMan, and sent it back after just two days (I had originally planned to spend a week with each and maybe even keep both).  
 
As the D1 burned in, the sound continued to gain more spaciousness and the bass tightened up.  At this point I've logged about 100 hours on it, and the sound seems to have stabilized.  
 
Now, the first con is that the volume knob had no markings on it whatsoever, making it hard to see what your volume level was at, at a glance.  Especially given that I will sometimes move this around, it was easy for the volume knob to be turned way up, without knowing.  However, I solved this by simply pulling out a sharpie and making a small dot on the knob when it was turned all the way down.  I put the mark at 7 o'clock when it was turned all the way down.  After doing that, I found that with my SRH840 and SR225e, 9 o'clock was my normal listening level.  8 O'clock could be used for soft listening, 10 o'clock for "slightly loud fun."  After about 12, things were uncomfortably loud on those headphones.  
 
With the HD650, 12 O'Clock was normal listening level.  However, with the HD650, is where the limitations of this guy started to show up.  While the D1 would get the HD650 loud enough, it didn't have the same bass power as a full desktop amp with a dedicated power supply.  The HD650 was a tick slower than when it was well powered.  It wasn't bad sounding by any means, but the USB powered supply just couldn't give the HD650 quite the juice/headroom it needs to really shine.  However, I never bought this to use with the HD650, which is my go to at home critical listening phone.  Just thought I would point that out.  With tough to drive headphones, it's merely "good" and not superb.  Would I hesitate to use this with the HD650? Not at all, it still worked fine with them, and did dramatically improve them vs. no amp.  But, there was certainly a noticeable difference with a nice, fully powered amp.
 
A further benefit of the D1 is that when you plug your headphones in, it cuts the non-amped out.  So, you can plug in your desktop powered speakers and make use of the DAC and volume knob on the D1, and not worry about turning your desktop speakers off when plugging in your headphones.  
 
Now, as to the sound, with the headphones I use this for, the SR225e and SRH840, it really tightens up the bass.  That's the most noticeable benefit, you get fast, punch bass that's not quite there when those are straight out of the macbook's headphone jack.  Further, there is a smoothness to the highs that really is pleasant.  The midrange is rich.  Soundstage is slightly expanded, you get a nice depth to the vocals.  You can hear when singers even slightly move toward and away from the mic.  
 
It is also dead completely black quiet, no noise whatsoever.  Should be a given, but with sub $200 DAC/amp combos, that's unfortunately not always a given.  
 
In a lot of ways it kind of has an almost tube like warmth, without the noise, difficult load management and unreliability you often get with tubes.  
 
It's small size also allows me to easily take it home, or lock it in a drawer at work, thus have complete peace of mind with leaving it at work.  
 
I can't believe how good this thing is, given the size and price.  I'd happily pay $300 for it, but am sure glad I didn't have to.  It was exactly what I was looking for features wise and sounds incredible.  I in fact bought a second one for at home, and am considering adding a few other audioengine products (their bluetooth transmitter) because of the positivity of this experience.  
 
Is it a perfect amp?  Of course not, don't be silly.  But if you are looking for a quality amp for headphones that aren't extremely hard to drive, it's great.  It provides plenty of current that lower ohm headphones need.  It has a great DAC and a fun sound.  In a sleek, quality build.  For sub $200.  
  • Like
Reactions: trellus
Back
Top