Wow, the years go by. Nice arteom…. And hpamdr who’s post from 2015 I just saw 😬, the original breadboard CTH used a pencil tube. I do occasionally pull out a DIY CTH but usually use an Amb γ2 DAC -> Liquid Spark and have for years. Sometimes with a Loki Mini+ in the mix depending. Happy...

Good seller. Nice, fast and easy transaction. Saga S came in good shape and works well. Would buy from again for sure. Thanks!

PM’d. Also curious why it’s rated good; what do you see as any issues. I do see the finish looks odd in the photo; maybe a closer one would be clearer.

Thanks for letting me know. Updated a few of the links in my sig. I've built and heard a lot of headphone amps. Part of the reason I stopped building; Too much audio gear & not enough space (or ears:) Though I do plan to someday build out a Bruce Heran 6DJ8 Headwatt I bought the parts for...

I still watch this thread. Time flies. Noticed your WTB post, hopefully you'll get a hit. BTW I own both a nice DIY CTH and a Massdrop CTH and rotate both in from time to time. DIY CTH gets play because of its greater tube rolling (voicing) options; I've lots to choose from and find that...

IG is input ground. You can tag IG wire along with any nearby component's connection to ground (PCB top layer). E.g. R1L resistor's lead/pad right next to IG pad, or nearby R1R lead. You can see their pad connections to PCB top-plane/ground and use ohmmeter to confirm. Note also that IG=SG.

Don't do much of this any longer but John pinged me & I offered this: "Times like this call for the Wayback Machine ( http://web.archive.org ). Typed in cavalliaudio.com and the Jan 14, 2011 snapshot (press 18:13:09) looks like one of the "best" to me. Quick look indicates it has all the *text*...

The repaired indicated in the other forum that he did suggest raising the resistor values.   So it appears it may have went sort of like this:   BTW should correct my statement:  All β22s that have passed my way have 1R R34s & R35s.  Did this even to a 4-channel/balanced build I sold because...

Posted the below at the other forums you posted this plea to.   Again I'm way too backlogged with work to take this on, but between you wanting it re-cased & it now needing work IMO may be best to sell it off.   This is always disappointing to see because its so avoidable.  Besides lowering...

Thanks for the post rds, good to hear your CTH is still serving you well.  Though I listen mostly to speakers these days, I do rotate a CTH in every now & then when using cans & still enjoy it.

Thank you for the detailed info and impressions and its nice that it was worth the effort of doing. A picture might be nice too but maybe its not too pretty:) Sometimes that keeps me from posting them. I guess if one was so motivated they could make a really compact CTH going to SMD and...

Had to go back in my archives for this one:)   First off I suppose your CTH has a regular 9-pin socket installed....  So maybe use a "9 PIN TUBE SOCKET SAVER FOR 12AX7" or "9 pin Machine made tube socket 12AX7" (w/o center pin) from fleabay to wire the pencil tube into so it can be inserted in...

Sorry I did not mean to offend, sounds good - an O2 build is a good warm-up:)   Good to confirm any questionable sub parts as you are doing.  But concentrate on Description field value in CTH XLS BoM when an exact part # is not available from your source(s).  E.g. in the Digikey BC550CGOS-ND...

No, use the base part & classes specified (e.g. BC550 - class C).  E.g. in the case you ask about either BC550CTA (ammo/tape) or BC550CBU (bulk/loose).   Curious, how many builds do you have under your belt?   The CTH is an intermediate level build, *lots* of parts in a tiny space, and...

R4H & R5H are resistors you'd only purchase & use if you wanted to support more than (popular) 12.6v & 6.3v heated tubes.  Most builders use a SPDT toggle 12.6v/6.3v (thus not needing R4H & R5H).  See also: http://cavalliaudio.com/diy/cth/main.php?page=schematics/psschematic

Agreed... That's what I meant in the post I linked to, that TI's TL08xCPs are suitable subs for STMicro TL08xCNs part #s in the BoM.  Part #s in BoM XLS are/were for ordering convenience of parts from Description field (e.g. TL081, TL082, etc).

A post I made about TL08X alternatives:  http://www.head-fi.org/t/398839/a-very-compact-hybrid-amp/2205#post_11422879   For the cap(s) bet a search for "Aluminum Electrolytic 10uF 10volt" or similar would turn up some (16 volt is OK too of course).  Nothing special about C1L & C1R but (try to)...

Not a cable guy myself but a couple thoughts/opinions FWIW: *  ebay & elsewhere have nice plastic pieces for Y coupler *  secure the wire within the ear cup well.  I used a zip tie in the repair I did on mine.  Rising from a chair with headphones on while stepping on their cable has been known...

Not a mod but a fix, did a quick search & didn't see any photos of this.   Got these years ago for a good deal because of loose/intermittent connection in one of the cups.  While expanding the C retainer to perform the fix it snapped (of course:) where the plastic side pin is. Used a miter saw...

AFAIK there's nothing special about the TL081s & TL082s as used in CTH circuits & they don't lie in the (direct) audio signal path, e.g. TI & other makers of that spec would be fine.  Think BB OPA134s & OPA2134s are also good if pricier substitutes (IIRC they are what I happened to use in CTH's...

  Others may know better but I'd focus on rail splitter then output buffer sections - see CA DIY orig CTH site.  Swapping out the chips in those sections with known-good ones could be the easy/happy path but wouldn't be surprised if you'll have to go after TO-92s as well (RS then OB).  TLE2426...

Could you also please take a look at CTH debugging link in my sig & respond to anything else it might query?: http://www.head-fi.org/t/398839/a-very-compact-hybrid-amp/2175#post_7837361   When something goes wrong on this small of a board, with this many parts, it can be difficult & painful...

See you found it & edited your post about the CTH Rev A BoM: http://cavalliaudio.com/diy/ctha/main.php?page=parts/excelbom   Looking at BoM reminded me that "single resistor" in my post means single resistor in parallel with R1H:  

  It is not a dumb question.   The values you've sourced may be the closest to the "calculated" values I came up with (& probably rounded to 0.1k).  IIRC the actual resistor values in CTH BOM did not exactly equal the calculated/ideal and had to be tweaked in-circuit.  Think it best to stick...

Reviewed what info I could find and that looks like a decent sub to me for what it's used for in the CTH (relay latch). Only issue would be (unwarranted?) suspicion of it in a build that had output relay latch issues.... Which is a symptom of many things that could be wrong with a build. If it...