Audio from my PC often has hiccups and glitches no matter how I tried to eliminate it. My streamer perhaps doesn't improve the sound, but at least guarantees stability because of the custom board and OS. An old PC may be repurposed to do the same, but it takes a lot of tinkering with no promise...

At this point I'd suggest do a factory reset, because your setup should work at the default settings If that fails, you should contact RME

According to page 48 of the user manual, PH 1/2, XLR and TS are all channel 1/2 There's no need to set IO. In fact, AD/DA source in the I/O menu is locked at auto Can you make sure options-> device mode -> basic mode is set at Auto? "USB mode active" should pop up Remember if you have anything...

If you're connecting to your computer via USB, then USB mode is what you want In USB mode it will output to both the front (PH 3/4 and optional 1/2) and the back (XLR or TS) at the same time My ADI-2 Pro is sitting in front of me right now, in USB mode, with a pair of headphone in PH3/4, XLR...

You want USB mode, not digital thru Leave the setting at "Auto", when USB is detected, it'll switch to the right mode (USB mode) for you ps if you want output at the back while a headphone plugged in at the front (3/4), you need to go to options -> phones ->turn "Mute v. TRS 3/4" off

Thank you!

Anyone knows if the ADI-2 Pro FS R can work as a DSP? i.e. USB in >>> DSP >>> optical out to another DAC Reading the manual it seems possible but can't be sure. Would all the digital features (EQ, filters, analyser etc.) still function this way?

I really like the old form factor. It's brilliant for desktop placement. Although I understand one may appreciate the wider enclosure for "hifi rack"

I'm willing to sell mine. It's a black unit + gateway combo, with original boxes. Together with the stock tubes, Siemens 6AK5 and Mullard 5654. Please pm me if interested.

Do checksum. Matched hash -> identical.

Sorry for my terrible wordings. What I was trying to say is, I didn't have the chance to try better amp, what I have is already the best I've ever heard. The consensus of the stax community is that it can be even better with a more powerful amp. So I'm very interested to "upgrade" in the future.

I asked a similar question before, and a kind member gave the following reply, I found it very insightful: https://www.head-fi.org/threads/the-stax-thread-iii.677809/post-15188085 I am using a 353x with my 009bk I don't particularly feel the lack of power, even in the loudest passage in...

Thank you for the informative post! Now I'm more confident with the purchase. I don't listen at loud volume, perhaps even quieter than average, it seems the 353X will suffice. I don't pursue "real life" experience from headphones because it's impossible. In a concert hall, loud passages can...

Many members over at the SR1a thread seem to disagree. Well everyone has different standard on "enough". I don't quite understand how an amp will get "compressed", is this a flaw with the volume control? Or it is worse at certainly volume level?

I really appreciate the advice. However in my experience I regretted almost every time I buy something at the middle ground. I wish I have the thick wallet to afford the best but I don't right now, so I'd choose the cheap but okay option. I've been reading a lot of posts and it seems 353X is not...

Sorry, not a fan of used gear:beerchug:

My mind is quite set on the 009 (non s) now. I think I'll start with a cheaper amp at the moment, but I can't decide between 353x and 006tS. (Browsing TOTL stuff made me numb with the pricing, they are still quite expensive!) At this point I just want a neutral, authentic Stax sound. Would a...

Then we have quite the opposite taste. To me, the porta pros are all bass and nothing else. Luckily I don't really listen to Holst.

It's very intriguing indeed. I wish I had the opportunity to attend a show to try them all. There are a few others TOTL cans seems to be worthy contenders too. The Raal...needs a 100-150 W speaker amp which I don't have. People already have speaker setup would have a much easier decision. But...

Hi Stax fans, I am on my search for the endgame, the very best headphone for classical music. What's on my mind are the SR-009 and Focal Utopia. I don't have the chance to listen to neither of them, but based on the opinion on the internet the SR-009 is super fast, crazy revealing and a bit...

You are right. The stock cables are all thin copper but they don't sound particularly bassy. It must be the wire I used, which I forgot what it was lol I have little to none experience with cables anyway so experimenting with some silver should be fun:beyersmile: Using 22 awg would cost around...

Those are 22 awg right? I think I might use those but only in 4 braid. I'm planning a 1.5 m long cable and 8 braid is a bit costly to me:triportsad:Easily >500 pounds just in wire! Braiding wouldn't be a problem to me but individual sleeving for all those may make the cable too thick for...

Thank you! Now when I think about it I want to do sleeving as well so 8 braid could be too difficult for me. Plus 40 feet of pure silver is a bit expensive. lol I guess 4 wires would be a wiser choice. For the plug, I'm thinking about Eidolic universal as they will certainly fit. Do I connect...

Hi all! I'm planning to make a cable for my T1 2nd gen, 4 or 8 wires braid and terminating with a 1/4". Is "hook up wire" what I should be looking for? Not very certain of the terminology. Also should I choose stranded or solid wire? I'm thinking 24 awg pure silver from neotech or silver/gold...

Hi guys, I'm attempting my first diy job to re-cable a pair of headphone and need to put the pads back afterward. The thing is I can't find a suitable adhesive to do the trick. The perfect glue should be like the one used by the factory, strong enough but you can still peel it off with force...