I tried to swap the tubes (left to right and right to left). After swapping the volume difference between channels is also swapped, but the difference is smaller (~0,8dB). But then there was 2,5V difference in bias, and after correcting both bias to 12V, the difference is again 1,3dB. I...

Quote: Originally Posted by MisterX You had to swap the channels? (which means they are crosswired?) Yes. Without swapping I can't get the levels correct and inter-channel leakage is red. (only on other channel if I remember correctly). But the Millett right/left output is the...

Ok, for some reason, I had to invert the millett-soundcard input cables to get proper results. Now I can get the levels to right level with Millett volume all the up. Here is what I got: Witout any resistors: http://koti.mbnet.fi/twisted-/Millett.htm With 32ohm resistors...

Quote: Originally Posted by MisterX Parallel. Of course I tried to use 32ohm resistors in parallel with the output cables with and without the ground cable but I faced exact same problems than I tried before without resistors. I can't get the levels correct without...

Thanks for your reply Quote: Originally Posted by MisterX A switchable dummy load is preferable to testing with headphones as a load. (it's rather pointless to test a headphone amp without a load unless you plan on using it as a preamp) That is something I had in mind...

Hi, I've finished my Millett project some time ago and I've been wondering if it's possible to make some measurements of the my Millett performance with my computer. (frequency response, distortion etc) I've used RMAA to test my M-Audio FireWire 410 soundcard, is it possible to make same...

Hello everybody! I've been using Grado Sr-325i headphones for over a year now, and I really enjoy them! Now I need a second pair of headphones that I can use with my IPod. I'm looking for headphones that can be easily driven by IPod and would have same type of sound than my Grados. I'd...

Quote: Originally Posted by MiRaCL I have no clue where to get the ALPS blue velvet pot from :/ ,buy i suppose tangent's audio ship to norway,and i have to order a STEPS board from them anyway. Tangent will most probably ship to Norway. Shipping to Finland was very fast and the...

The Heatsink is still runnig very hot, so I bought a larger heatsink which I'm goin to put to the back of the eclosure, so it will cool down properly. At the moment the power switch is between the tread and the millett. This way, the tread will be powered all the time. Is this bad? Should I...

As a new DIYer who just finished his first headphone amplifier, I think I should answer this thread too. The main reasons why I wanted to make an amplifier by myself was actually curiosity and passion to learn something new, not because I needed an amplifier that much. I had some...

Quote: Originally Posted by n_maher Do you really mean 24V AC? Yes. Is that bad Quote: What's the unloaded output of the wall wart? I measured 29,2 volts. The heatsink I bought is linkable. So what I will most probably do is, I will buy another identical...

Here's my next problem: When I first tested this amplifier it was on my bed, now I moved it to my table right next to me. Right when I plugged the amplifier to my cd player I noticed very loud hum/noise comming from the headphones! I noticed that if I touch different parts (the pot, rca...

No smoke, no bad smell, just sound! That means my first amplifier project seems to work At first I couldn't get sound from the right channel, but after half an hour of swearing I noticed that the problem was in the input wiring. The original wire was almost broken, but I changed it and now...

Quote: Originally Posted by steinchen anything between 24V and 27V is fine So the 26,2 volts is just fine then. I thank you for your answers.

Well... I've spent dozens of hours reading different forums but I haven't seen any information conserning these questions. Edit: Found answer for the Noble pot question.

My Millett is under construstion at the moment and it's time for a few more questions. Here Is a picture of the PCB I am still waiting for the Noble potentiometer and 470uF C7 Blackgates to arrive from Percy. I'd like to know, why there are two outputs in the board? Is there any...

Quote: Originally Posted by ScubaSteve87 remember you need enclosure, volume knob, rca input jacks, 1/4 headphone jack, LED's, wallwart for use with TREAD, DC input jack, and a switch. Also If you are using the standard hammond enclosure, you might want to think about using something...

I finally made the list of all the required parts. It can be found Here. I noticed that Tangetsoft offered full Tread kit, so I decided to go with that as it seemed like the easiest way. There are still missing some parts and the main PS in the list, but I'll look for those later. Any...

Quote: Originally Posted by dsavitsk For the amount you are going to spend in shipping, I would consider a) looking for supliers in Europe, b) making a friend in the US, and/or c) looking for a higher quality amp design. For example, the Welborne tube hybrid design coupled with either...

Noble it is. Thanks for your answers. I try to complete the part listings for this project within few days. Only bad thing is that it seems that I have to order the parts from six to seven different places (3 different PCB's, all from different places. One store for the tubes and sockets...

Quote: Originally Posted by jboehle Amb's muting/protection circuit: http://www.amb.org/audio/epsilon12/ Thanks! That's exactly what I was looking for! Allright, I'm most probably gonna build the Millet Amplifier, STEPS Power Supply and that muting circuit. Now I just need to...

If I understood right, no headphones shouldn't be connected to this amplifier when it is turned on. Does this also apply when it is turned off? If not, is it possible to make a modification that no power is connected to the output jack for few seconds right after the power is turned on? This...

Quote: Originally Posted by diablo9 buy a TREAD kit from Tangent, great little power supply, but you will still need a wallwart though. I know that the TREAD needs a wallwart PS, but what I don't know is what does the TREAD actually do? Edit: Few additional questions: 1...

Ok, I've read most of that thread (still reading) and I've decided to order both Tung Sol 12AE6A and 12FK6 tubes so I can test and compare those. Do you think that the Alps potentiometers are good enough? Or are there better options at Mouser? http://www.mouser.com/catalog/624/494.pdf...

Quote: Originally Posted by dsavitsk There is a thread that will answer all of these questions. http://www6.head-fi.org/forums/showthread.php?t=124945 Thanks, I'll read through that and then I'll ask more if still have something unclear.