If it is used for wire-wrap, it is solid core.  It is not as flexible as stranded, not ideal for braiding or twisting pairs.  It is for PCB construction, using the wire-wrap methods.  Use as you would any solid core wire, applicable to some internal wires.  Not really useful for external...

  It might be normal and within tolerance.  Mine is like that too, but I have Regal's mod in it and running 6H30 and 6N6P tubes.  You can reduce the R in the CRCRC filter, and increase C to compensate.  On the other hand, I have thought of using a diode bridge instead and increasing R and C.  ...

The only 2 things I would add is to make sure you know which terminal is ground, and if there is really a ground.  Some amps invert and ground may actually be the (+) terminal.  Some amps may be balanced, and you will need to ground to chassis if your headphones are not balanced.  It's unlikely...

No worries.  Just make sure you are looking at the schematic as you are doing this.  Results can vary depending on how transistors are wired.  That said, you can brute force it and change a bunch of transistors for the heck of it, but that can be a big PITA unless you have a desoldering station.

http://www.elexp.com/t_test.htm     Diode test your transistors, something is probably blown.  I would start with the VAS stage and servo booster, Q6, Q7, Q8, Q9, Q12, Q13, Q14 and Q15.  Another thing you can try, just to get bearings, is to pull the servo on both channels and measure...

  because you probably hooked it up wrong, or your circuit was assembled incorrectly.

    You can build the PRR SOL with modifications for lower voltage rails, lower current, etc.   Example, drop to about 30V rail, raise the 6ohm resistor to 50ohm or thereabouts.  That should drop the bias to about 100mA.  The resistors along the transistor will drop to about 1W for the 50ohm...

It sounds like the leakage current is interacting with the resistance of whatever is connected after.  It sounds like you measured DC offset with the amp (or whatever it is, it's not clear) plugged in.  It sounds like your amp has no DC blocking caps.  If the amp has a potentiometer, it's...

That's great news!  85dB isn't too sensitive, but should be good enough with 10W.  I have 89dB bookshelf speakers on a 5W amp, and it's loud enough but might not be so for high dynamic range pieces.   I heard some of your clips, they came out great!  It makes me want to delve into vinyl as...

  Use a regulator for each board, ala mono blocks, or a high current one.  Most 3 pin regulators I've come across work the same, and are almost drop in replacements.   LM317HV handles higher voltages (57V).  You can also float a regulator if you need.  TL783 handles up to 125V.  3V drop is a...

  Capacitance multipliers, or CRCRC filtered.  Or you could use a 3 pin LM317HV or TL783 type circuit.  The image below and this http://www.ti.com/lit/ds/symlink/lm317hv.pdf .  You can do the math for resistor values and pull it together.       Sorry, misunderstood and I was also...

heavy rubber jacket.  i've used similar, it's noticeably heavy.

They are simple enough circuits, build both and let us know.  From my experience they would both sound musical, but since I haven't built either as standalone circuits with those parts I can't really say for sure.  For an amplifier, I would target the SOL (or rather something else).   The only...

  A build is very personal.  It's multiple things all lumped together.  The circuit is a part of it, everything else is not.  Don't sell yourself short.  It was a good build, and as you have seen, the build can make or break a design.   It'll all work out.  Everything in the box is replaceable.

It's hard to beat flash in current capacity.  I'm surprised it's lasted as long as it has.  Still, sad to see another technology ending it's life.