[flynhawaiian]

I need an alternative to the Q3E 512-MPSA14 since it is no longer made.  Does anyone know of the alternative?  Is it the 610-MPSA14?

 

[cfcubed]

Reviewed what info I could find and that looks like a decent sub to me for what it's used for in the CTH (relay latch).

Only issue would be (unwarranted?) suspicion of it in a build that had output relay latch issues.... Which is a symptom of many things that could be wrong with a build. If it was me I'd try that sub.

 

[flynhawaiian]

Sweet.  One last thing...  Which way does Q1P go?  I’m a little confused on the orientation

 

[Misterrogers]

The metal part should face the rear of the board (power connector, etc.)

 

[flynhawaiian]

Thanks.  So the "black part with the paper or cardboard" faces the top of the board?

 

[Misterrogers]

Take take/upload a picture when I get home this evening

 

[flynhawaiian]

That would be great.  I’m having problems seeing it in the other pictures.

 

[Pilou]

Hey Guys - need a little help.
Does anyone know the alternative to C1L , C1R ( Aluminium Electrolytic 10u 10v) and an alternative to the Ic1 (TL082)?  since it is no longer made.
Thanks for helping, I'd really like to do this little amp.
 
 

 

[cfcubed]

A post I made about TL08X alternatives:  http://www.head-fi.org/t/398839/a-very-compact-hybrid-amp/2205#post_11422879
 
For the cap(s) bet a search for "Aluminum Electrolytic 10uF 10volt" or similar would turn up some (16 volt is OK too of course).  Nothing special about C1L & C1R but (try to) match the lead spacing & watch the diameter for fitment.

 

[Mullet]

Couldn't you just use a TL082CP instead? It has slightly different specs, but I'd think it should work fine.

 

[cfcubed]

Couldn't you just use a TL082CP instead? It has slightly different specs, but I'd think it should work fine

Agreed... That's what I meant in the post I linked to, that TI's TL08xCPs are suitable subs for STMicro TL08xCNs part #s in the BoM. 
Part #s in BoM XLS are/were for ordering convenience of parts from Description field (e.g. TL081, TL082, etc).

 

[Pilou]

Thanks for your fast answer, I have an other little question : wich resistor are the best for R5H, 3.3k, 5.8k, 15.1k or 23.3k?

 

[cfcubed]

R4H & R5H are resistors you'd only purchase & use if you wanted to support more than (popular) 12.6v & 6.3v heated tubes. 
Most builders use a SPDT toggle 12.6v/6.3v (thus not needing R4H & R5H).  See also: http://cavalliaudio.com/diy/cth/main.php?page=schematics/psschematic

 

[Mullet]

I've added in the extra resistors to allow for 4v and 8v tubes and I barely use them. I mainly use 6v and 12v based tubes. There are a few 8v variants of 6v/12v tubes like 8CG7 or 8GU7 that are super cheap options that most like will sound just like their 12v or 6v equivalents. If you wanted the extra heater voltages, you'd need a rotary switch like this one...
 
Mouser Part # 633-MRK206A

 

[Pilou]

Thanks again, do you think this: http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/BC547CBU/BC547CBU-ND/975543 is a good alternative to the BC550C?